So after doing the ebr rotor upgrade I didn't get the nut on tight enough and it started to make some bad sounds. Took it apart and the retaining ring on the back of the rotor had come free. Put it all back together and now it makes the worst grinding sounds on start up. Fml. Is the sprag clutch fubar'd or should I fire my mechanic? It's possible I still don't have the nut tightened to 300ft lbs as I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high. Help
sprag clutch questions
- Thread starter bwylie_99
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If its actually grinding you need to disassemble the rotor side and see what is grinding, How did you go about tightening it up, I just went through all of this I only had a torque wrench good for 250lbs then put a breakover on it and went a little more. If its even close to 250lbs or so you should not hear any grinding noise.
First and foremost we need to know what and where the grinding noise is coming from. The sprag starter clutch in our bikes is basically the same setup as ducati's which are also notorious for sprag failures.
First and foremost we need to know what and where the grinding noise is coming from. The sprag starter clutch in our bikes is basically the same setup as ducati's which are also notorious for sprag failures.
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I believe you can replace the bearing in the sprag.
Post pics, The sprag isnt so much a bearing (looks like one) but the "dogs" (bearing like cylinders) wedge against the crankshaft in one direction only when starting. Its possible one of the bolts didnt go in all the way on the back of the rotor assembly or something is contacting now. It is possible to install the sprag backward so let us know what you find!
kinda off topic
Ive delt with similar starting systems on a old Vmax I had. There is a spring around the outside of the dogs that keep tension on them enough to start contact with the crankshaft when the starter engaged till the dogs grab on their own. I know ducati guys were having issues with this spring crapping out and they were using the lip spring from lip seals to correct the issue without buying new sprags.
kinda off topic
Ive delt with similar starting systems on a old Vmax I had. There is a spring around the outside of the dogs that keep tension on them enough to start contact with the crankshaft when the starter engaged till the dogs grab on their own. I know ducati guys were having issues with this spring crapping out and they were using the lip spring from lip seals to correct the issue without buying new sprags.
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I know i'm going to regret this. I have a spare sprag assay if you find yourself in a bind. Every time I get rid of extra parts, I need the one I just got rid of..lol
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Lets see if thats your issue first and we will go from there.
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Ehh thats nothing this is what was in mine after the rotor nut backed off.
Which was a result of this.
Which was a result of this.
I'm an idiot. I have a terrible mechanic! Found the problem. It's the retaining ring on the sprag clutch. Wylie coyote super genius didn't have it in the sprag correctly. Starts like a champ. No horrible sounds. No grinding. No clunk turning off. I have no idea how much torque is on the rotor nut. A three foot cheater bar and all I could pull is exactly what she got!
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Awesome. Wait your not your own mechanic are you?
Well everything went smoothly until she warmed up today. I don't know if the locktight didn't hold or what, but after she warmed up starting making noises and the starter is acting up.
When I had it all together I noticed there is play in the starter gear that sits behind the rotor. The nut was at 250 ft lb tight and I could still move the starter gear. Is this right? Quick someone run out, pull your oil line, take the cover off and see if you can wiggle the gear! Right.....
When I had it all together I noticed there is play in the starter gear that sits behind the rotor. The nut was at 250 ft lb tight and I could still move the starter gear. Is this right? Quick someone run out, pull your oil line, take the cover off and see if you can wiggle the gear! Right.....
For starters I reused the rotor nut. I used locktight red 262 which is only rated for 3/4 max, and I probably don't have it tight enough. I don't really understand how everything works so good after I first put it back together.
I'm positive I know the problem. The starter gear that goes in the sprag clutch on the back of the rotor has play once it's all assembled. I think it ends up being the culprit as it more than likely wobbles or binds up slightly. Maybe it is the sprag. Seems to work fine when I have it in my hands......grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
I'm positive I know the problem. The starter gear that goes in the sprag clutch on the back of the rotor has play once it's all assembled. I think it ends up being the culprit as it more than likely wobbles or binds up slightly. Maybe it is the sprag. Seems to work fine when I have it in my hands......grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Is it making the noise all the time once warmed up or just when starting? Mine makes a pretty nasty clunk from time to time while starting which is the compression build up backlashing the sprag which releases the dogs and clunks when it regrabs the starter gear. 1125's are known to be VERY noisy engines.
