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Sputter/hesitation at idle...hesitation low RPM

Buellxb Forum

Help Support Buellxb Forum:

You have intermittent spark on one cylinder.

Possible causes:
1) Most common... Bad/fouled plug (Buellizm #54 Repeated cold starts without warming it up WILL do that)
2) Bad or poorly connected plug wire
3) Bad coil
4) Primary wiring to the coil is compromised

Possible repairs:
1) Clean or replace the plugs NGK Iridium work well either DCPR8EIX or the 'colder' DCPR9EIX.
2) Check or replace the plug wires for $22:https://st-paul-harley-davidson-bue...wire-set-pair-b1m?_pos=1&_sid=2710051e0&_ss=r
3) Replace the coil for $42: https://st-paul-harley-davidson-bue...010-xb-models-b5y?_pos=2&_sid=66cc8acb5&_ss=r
4) Check 12V spark signal at the coil terminals #1 and #3
 
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Go light on the ll100 aviation fuel the octane rating is not computed using the same formula as automotive use it works out to about 114 octane and LL stands for low lead but the lead content in av fuel is several times higher than the highest amount in auto fuel from the 70’s it will kill most O2 sensors on the first tank. If you have a local airport you can get fuel at 60% unleaded super and 40% 100 octane unleaded av gas should give about 105 to 110 octane and good cleaning additives.
 
I didn't know that about the "LL" part of aviation gas but cvc is right. Any lead will kill your O2:( Maybe a better choice is boat gas for no Ethanol?

But any octane higher than the number recommended for the engine will be fine. It is simply a measure of "knock resistance". It's not going to blow anything up and doesn't contain more magic horsepowers. In FACT, higher octane fuel burns slower and more evenly.

If you're just looking for the cleaning feature of good gas, just add gas cleaners. Seafoam FTW!!:cool:

Either way please report up on this thread when you get her running again
 
Like REALLY large, In fact, you should write "NO! This is the BAAAADDDD OONNNEEEE, do NOT re-install it again!!" In the :upset:largest neon paint you can find.
 
I think I am the one who Barrett might have been referring to with a bike from New Hampshire. I have a 2008 buell firebolt that was, well is running rough/coughs from time to time. Almost identical to what the original post said. Odd. However, My airbox top is missing. I assumed my bike was running too lean. I haven’t had a chance to do Everything to it that cooter suggested earlier. I’m working on getting the parts and my buelltooth is coming in Friday so I can check my codes. Never really thought to change/replace my plugs because it only has 11,000 miles in it but you all mention it like it could be common. Mine is not running as rough as this as jcombs posted video at all. It’s smooth for the most part just kind of coughs from time to time like the fuel mixture isn’t correct.
 
I am going to replace my plugs just to eliminate that issue. Barrett you mentioned a process to change them. Can you help me with this process by giving me some pointers? You mentioned possibly some certain tools?
 
I am going to replace my plugs just to eliminate that issue. Barrett you mentioned a process to change them. Can you help me with this process by giving me some pointers? You mentioned possibly some certain tools?


Jared: go to ebay and purchase an XB12 airbox lid. 12 lids all years the same....9 lids all years the same...but they do not interchange. by that i mean you CAN swap them around BUT the 12 lid has dedicated mounts and cable fastening tab for the IEV exhaust actuator box. i do have a few new 12 lids in stock but have to check pricing. good used ebay piece will work fine for you. and ALSO check that the large rubber airhorn is fastened correctly with factory spring clamp to the throttle body air intake....and fastened correctly to bottom of airbox base plate. these XB's will typically run terribly with an ill-fitting airhorn connector and missing airbox top-lid.

the vid that Aaron posted for you is excellent. follow my NGK iridium spark plug suggestions from prior response to this thread
and here's the steps in conjunction with the vid:
1-old plugs and new plugs have a 5/8th inch hex base.
2-remove 2 wiring harness plugs that are attached to the left side air intake scoop at front of bike. squeeze the tangs together and they unsnap from the scoop. then remove scoop.
3-remove airbox cover....disconnect vent hose from frame fitting left front top corner....remove airbox lid and set aside...remove airbox base plate. THE FOUR BASE PLATE #27 TORX HELD IN PLACE WITH PINK LOCTITE. DO NOT STRIP OUT THE HEAD OR YOU'RE IN A WORLD OF ****!
4-gently remove F&R spark plug wire from each plug. remove front plug with simple 5/8th inch box wrench. remove rear plug with dedicated 5/8th inch foam insert spark plug socket. use 3/8th driver and multiple extensions plus swivel head on end of socket to do the rear plug. if you do NOT have the 3/8th drive swivel, buy or borrow one.
5-while doing this work you can unplug the coil, remove the 2 attachment hex cap bolts, remove the coil, and inspect it for cracks/leakage and closely inspect both plug wires. if anything is suspect, replace with new. the XB coil is a twin fire style meaning it has 2 dedicated circuits and fires one plug at a time.
INSTALLATION OF PLUGS AND ALL ELSE IS THE REVERSE OF THIS PROCEDURE.

NOTE: would do no harm to reset your TPS sensor at this time. if your XB is a 2008 or later you can do it by hand with a few simple steps as follows: DOES NOT MATTER IF DONE AT ROOM TEMP OR OPERATING TEMP.

TO RESET YOUR TPS SENSOR:
a. Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position.
b. Turn the ignition key to the On position. DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
c. With the engine off, rotate the throttle grip from closed throttle position to
wide-open throttle position and back to closed position 3 times holding the throttle
grip against each stop for 1 full second.
d. Cycle the key off and back on.
 
You don't need any fancy fuel. Waste of $$ and the bike won't run any different. Just use a fuel stabilizer.
 
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