Suspension settings for a new XB12S owner

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PDXBuell

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Jun 18, 2008
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I recently purchased my first motorcycle and have started to dive in to the black magic that is suspension tuning. I’ve clicked on all the links I can find and goggled until my eyes hurt but I still think I might be missing something. Being a new owner and new to motorcycles I want to learn good riding habits on a correctly tuned suspension and not some bad habits with messed up settings. Below is a log of what I’ve done and my interpretation of how the bike felt. I use it as a daily commuter so the roads are the same every time and I spent a few days with some of the settings just to see if my feeling was for real or I was on a off day. I would like some feedback as to my current settings and if I’m in the ballpark of reality or out to lunch. I realize settings are different for everyone but I figure people of similar height and weight should end up with similar settings, not the same but similar. Any help would be great. I did use the factory settings first but there was so much push through the corner I actual had to follow the recommended corner speed signs or end up off the road. 20MPH sign meant I was doing 20-25MPH around that corner[confused]not the 35+ MPH I would expect.

Height 6’0”
Weight 193lbs with all my riding gear on.

settings.jpg


Thanks again for all your help:p
 
nice experiment...although, call me lazy, i don't feel like converting all that to the metric system :p

but just a Q...did you check you tire condition and pressure? cause that also has a big influence in stability & conerning ;)
 
First off I have to commend you on just making one adjustment at a time (except once). That shows a conscientious and analytical mind. I was going to ask the same about tire pressure. Also you say this is your first bike but how much street riding experience do you have. If not a lot I would suggest sticking with the factory settings until you gain some. A really good rider on a maladjusted setup can out corner a novice on a perfectly set up machine. When I didn't realize my rear preload was too low I could still take a cloverleaf at 50mph if it was marked 35mph but I had to fight it. Once I set preload to the recommended setting I do the same corner at 70mph w/o a sweat.
 
Thanks LeFox, H&H :)...I check the tire pressure at least every other time I ride and keep it +/- 0.5 PSI of the factory recommended 34/36.

4 months total riding experience + a safety course.

I am considering going back to the factory settings and that was one of the reasons for my post. I realize Buell spends a lot of time and money on the setup and I really don't think I'm smarter then they are at this point. :p

I have to say though the factory settings really put the front end high and makes cornering a serious workout. The settings I have now allow me to make a corner at say 50+MPH comfortably but at the factory settings I was feeling shaky and loosing confidence at 30+MPH for the same corner.
 
Hmmm it could have a bit to do with riding style as well. The Buells make YOU corner them not the other way around. You have to move your body quite a bit and shift your weight around to "load" the suspension going into turns. Biggest problem people have is at the beginning of the corner, trying to correct mid-corner could make you think the suspension needs adjusting.


Really nice log, thats the way to do it [up]
 
May i ask you, do you roll into corners (not giving throttel)? If you run to fast at the straight road and then, when coming to the corner, close the throttel completely? If you keep firm throttel and roll through corners, the bike will try to run straight forward - and that is not so funny. Also, try to use a lower air pressure in the tires than recommended. Try, minus 5 - 10% of the resommended values.
At first it will feel awkward, but when the tires get warm the rubber adapts a little, then you can try the corners.
You should try to use the preload they recommend in the book (rear and front). If you set the preload too stiff + having high air pressure, you will have the bike more set to run at perfect roads and it will be more nervous and shaky. It can be wise to soften it up a little at first, before setting the suspension harder. If soften a little, the bike swallows more irregularities and bumps in the road. Also try to set either rear shock or the forks, one of them at each time. Not both, it is too confusing if you do not know what you are going for.
I have a feeling it's pretty common people set them to hard more often than to soft.
Work the compression and rebound more to get what you look for.
Try this and come back to this topic.. maybe we can try to learn to understand better what your problems are if they continue.
As mentioned above, the body needs to be used quite alot also. If you do not like to dive (lay down the bike + yourself), try to keep the bike somewhat (/quite) vertical and put more of your own weight/body at the sides. I have had much time invested to set mine suspension to suit me. Also eneded up buying a Penske 8987 (rear shock) with a progressive spring. Also the Hyper Pro kit for my forks. (progressive front springs and a higher viscosity oil). This is making the bike a little different than how it was when i bought it:)
There are alot of things you can look at when it comes to handling.

1. tires + air pressure.
2. suspension settings or new suspension,
maybe a higher viscosity fork oil?
3. altering the geomtry slightly!?
(best on XB 12S, not long (also possible at XB 12R)

* Free spirit trail kit
(from 21 -23 degrees)
28mm more trail, 12mm lowering of fork, wheelbase 1345mm.
* Add a aftermarket rear shock, allowing hightening of the rear end (+ 10-15mm)= transfers more weight forward to the front wheel.

4. checking bearings, at: wheels, swingarm + steering head.
5. looking at cockpit changes
(a new handlebar perhaps?)

Good luck;)
 
Hey sinpieces, how do you like 23 degree kit you have on your bike? I mean how did it affect your handling?
 
Hey Shilo,

well, the handling is in my opinion better taking into mind, both plus and minus. Mainly because the bike is more calm/stable in the front end. Since the trail increase slightly (28mm) you will notice (at first) you will have slightly longer turns doing same corners. You will learn quite fast to do them as fast, it's simply just do as always, just a little more. It's not by means, slower cornering, you just have to change the technique slightly. If you do more than just small roads, + like to run the rpms (straightline speeding) this might be ideal for you. If you always go on small winding roads and gets mad if anything change the cornering in a "slower" direction, this might be no no for you. I like to point out that i myslef do very much small road riding and i am very satisfied (i have done the list 1-5).
I started my quest wih this kit, mainly to make the XB/s less twitchy/nervous. As mentioned in the above 1-5 list. There are a few steps which all affects handling towards better stability. Like this kit, is not to be mistaken for something a steering damper could do. It is not so. The steering damper works also, but this is something different. The kit will give you larger trail by 28mm. Ofcourse you notice that. Otherwise the stability would not increase either. In my opinion, doing this + lifting the rear end slightly (hight adjustment (10-15mm's) of aftermarket shocks) makes the bike better than it was as of original.
All suspension settings you do, will not ever do a change as this does. IF it come to your opinion, that your XB/s is feeling nervous or twitchy and it is of your disliking - try this. It is the most cheap way. The kit itself is of a quality, as good as original steering head bearing. I can't say anything about stoppies or wheelies and the wear it will do to these bearings - i always drive with both wheels at the ground. The kit has the raking in the cups (over and under). When doing wheelies and stoppies you might put more stress to them - look that the torque is as it should more often then. As mentioned, i did this for better handling (stability). I like to ride fast and made my mind up, tweak the XB for better grip, handling and traction. Did so in my opinion.
The kit is from Free Spirits, they race and this is made for the XB/s to work if driving like this.

Good luck..
 
It's close to same. You don't use this kit at Uly, Ss or the new STT. I think there's a little difference, but i haven't looked in to all that. The Ss (Uly, STT) has longer fork legs also, 120mm i think (84mm at XB/s). I really don't know how this affects such as turning ratio etc etc.
 
jut wondering with my gear i weight just shy of 170. I have my bike set for the 170-190 weight range and at times I think it might be stiff in the corner (mainly if a seam in the road or small bump) the back trys to jump out of the turn slightly.
Lefox i think you are close to my weight i think you said 168? I have the scg version just wondering what people would recomend?
 
burnteyes said:
Lefox i think you are close to my weight i think you said 168?
Click to expand...
man, stupid conversions...
if that's lb.lbs, i'm 158.73
my suspension is set to around 190, which is a bit on the high side for most people.

the fact that your wheel jumps, is cause your tire pressure is to high?
ofcourse depends on how big a bump your are talking about. :eek:
 
no the pressure is ok. There not big bumps but you can feel them even if you went straight over them. Ill just figure bad bumps. Havnt rode many other bikes and since they werent mine i take it easy. Ill stick with the setings i got then. i would hate to think of riding on these bad roads with much stiffer. :( my but knees and neck could not take it :p
 
PDX Buell take it from a mechanic keep it sweet, keep it simple. tire presure should be 32 front 34 rear, unless you ride with sombody then 34 front 36 rear, if you want to adjust your front or rear forks open your owners manual and find your weight requirements, then turn your adjustment screws counter-clockwise tighten only till you feel resistance dont crank down on them. then draw a plus( + )sign on the area around them, breaking them into 4 pieces, in your owners manuel they'll refer to everthing as half or quarter turns then just turn as recomended in the book. any other questions just ask.
 
Highspdlowdrag said:
tire presure should be 32 front 34 rear,
Click to expand...
32psi (2.2bar) is a bit low...track use recommend around 33psi (2.3bar)

normal street use is,when colder outside can be up to 36psi (2.5bar)
 
I use Michelin Pilot Road 2 ct, 2.15 bar front, 2.35 rear. That is super, but below recommendations which is 2.3 front and 2.5 rear.
 
PDXbuell, you might need to adjust your riding style a little for your Buell. I am new to Buell and noticed I had to use more countersteering efforts than other bikes. Next time you take a corner fast, try pushing forward a little on the grip that is on the same side as the direction you are turning. If it feels like too much, just push a little on the other side. Works great for me and I had those chicken strips gone in no time!

Matt
 
I know this is an old post but there is a newer video on the Buell web site where they go through setting up the suspension on an 1125R. They explain how the different adjustments change the bikes additude. So for those (like me) that are unsure of what each adjustment is for, they explain quite nicely. So if you need to know what rebound or compreesion adjustments do or spring preload this a very informative video (atleast it was for me) :)
 

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