Swing-arm sprung, axle will not grab threads

[Camp762]

Long story short, first tire change after strange tire wear on new to me '06 Ulysses, corroded axle pulled the crushed/shot drive side bearing out of wheel and stretched apart swing arm instead of clean removal (yes, pinch bolt was loose). Now when trying to reinstall the axle will not grab the threads even after ratchet strap through wheel around the swing arm sides torqued in a bit.
What can I do to remedy this situation, is a new swing arm in order? Any assistance would be great, thanks!

 

[34nineteen]

Did you try running it through the other side? It may be as simple as some buggered up threads in the swingarm that may not be allowing the axle threads to catch. Use lots of grease and go slow.

 

[Silverrider]

Good thought 3419 , in addition to what 3419 has said, try using another strap going over the axle end applying inward pressure to the axle, and using a vise grip in the center of the axle to rotate clockwise to get the threads started.If it is truly sprung you need to spring it back in aliment with a 10ft pry bar that would fit ID axle hole not to mess it up. If all fails yes another swing arm is in store.

 

[ztied]

Are you the guy that just had a rear tire put on, and needed fuel pump parts. On sat. If so I was the one that did your tire, where are you located

 

[Camp762]

I am the one you saw Saturday, I'm South of the River in Ashland City.
I tried threading from the other side and the threads aren't buggered. I'd hate to do the 10' bar route, but if there is a chance it will work, I'd try. I'm thinking the ratchet again without the wheel just for possibly the axle will grab and I can torque it back closer to spec.
Any good ideas ztied?

 

[Silverrider]

Can you see that the axle does not line up to the threads ? If so? Try to by pry it in the opposite direction a little at a time, so you can see progress if any, If you force it in with out the wheel, Its is one thing but it must line up with the wheel in place.

 

[ztied]

Cool,I would maybe wait on the wheel till you get the fuel pump in. And are you making sure the lip off the axle isnt catching on the swing arm holding it from going in

 

[Cooter]

Thats what I was thinking ^^^^^^^

 

[Camp762]

My fuel pump is fixed up and slid in smooth, the constant running has quit, as long as the new orings didn't pinch that's covered, I'll see when I gas up again. The axle lip did catch my attention and I'm still not sure if I made it past that point, there was very little clearance, that may be the problem compounded with the sprung/misalignment, I'll check again or maybe give it a gentle whack.

 

[Camp762]

Looked at and tried all of the above, the lip clears the swing arm and the strap torqued over the axle seemed a no go as well. Just in case, if anyone can source a used swing arm on the cheap, I may be able to swing that expense by Friday if worse comes to worse.
Y'all 's assistance is greatly appreciated!

 

[ztied]

Are you sure you got the right bearings also? I would offer to come look ,but I wont be free until next week sometime. I would hate to see you buy a whole swing arm if its something simple

 

[Camp762]

Pretty sure on those bearings, all balls brand. Thanks for the offer, I'd like to take care of this without the expensive replacement parts. I'm off for a week starting tomorrow, was really wanting to break in that new rear tire.

 

[ztied]

One last thought remember how there was a little space between the bearing and the tube inside behind the bearing, sometimes the tube may be out of place enough that it may keep the axle from sliding in? Just a thought

 

[user_deleted]

let me see if i understand all of this correctly: you were removing the rear axle with rear wheel assembly unsupported(nothing underneath tire to support hanging weight), the axle unthreaded properly but pulled right side bearing assembly out of the wheel itself and spread the swingarm apart? if that's the case you were generating a phenomenal amount of force on the axle and threads during this procedure. amazing the axle didn't twist up like a pretzel. here's the solution:
1-with tire/wheel assembly removed now remove the swingarm bridge. it's affixed with 4 hex cap bolts and is on right side of siwngarm.
2-with very light coating of grease on the axle push it thru the wheel assy. from the belt pulley side and see if it passes thru easily and fully. if NOT it's either a bearing and/or spacer installation error.
3-now take the axle and slide thru the right side of swingarm across the hub distance and into left side of swingarm. it should land gently and fully against the swingarm inner threads. using tool-kit axle removal/install tool now fully thread axle into threads. be gentle doing this as you want to "feel" if the axle threads and swingarm threads are mating smoothly. thread in gently till bottomed out, then fully remove axle.
4-if idler pulley is installed....REMOVE IT!
5-now install wheel assy. with belt engaging wheel pulley....SUPPORT the wheel underneath with blocks of wood....visually confirm all is lining up.....LEAVE BRIDGE UNINSTALLED....and now install axle thru wheel into left side of swingarm and start to engage the threads. thread axle in till it LIGHTLY bottoms....back off approx. 10 turns.....NOW INSTALL SWINGARM BRIDGE....tighten axle again till snug.....now back off axle approx. 22 FULL TURNS. install idler pulley assembly. now tighten axle till snug.....back off 2 full turns....now tighten and torque to approx. 50 ft. lbs. of torque. install axle pinch bolt.
NOTE: if the above does not resolve this get a pro to assist in person and determine the fault before you do further damage.

 

[Camp762]

Sounds close, I've done this about eight times previously on my other bikes, all have been on their center stand, this is the first time I had to use a motorcycle jack. The tire was only lifted enough to slide a large wrench under, which could have played some fault. The axle was corroded dry, and did not want to slide through the inner race of the right bearing which looked like the dust cover crushed in on outboard side and was shot, the left is fine. The tire wore out a strip just on the left side in an odd fashion before the rest of the tread, way before the wear indicator, so I was thinking something was out of alignment or was pulling improperly (this is my first belt drive). The bike was wrecked good enough on the right side to have needed the peg bracket welded ( and the valve cover has been brazed on the rear most top corner & dented a bit under puck- I noticed these after getting home). I'm not sure if my swing arm was torqued funny to begin with, but seems certain now...
The pulley was removed already, it was a little gritty but I cleaned that and it's pretty smooth now. The axle is having no trouble clearing the wheel bearings and spacer, the axle shoulder clears the lip of the swing arm as well, it's got to arm sides misaligned and not allowing the first threads to grab and guide the axle home, or maybe I damaged the first "grabber" thread on the swing arm enough on right side, though threads fine from brake side. Or maybe the first round of thread of the axle is deformed. I'll try without the bridge if that makes the difference, maybe one more try with the grease,

 

[Camp762]

OK, thanks to all those who have given advise throughout my ordeal here. I've discovered when chasing the threads from the left I ended up pushing a loose piece of thread metal into the start of the threads on the right, this would not allow the axle to grab. The swing arm was definitely misaligned on the first attempt, and I'm guessing all of the strap squeezing got me closer to true because the axle went in with much less difficulty then first try when I tore the threads up to begin with. I coated the axle in Honda Molly assembly paste as this seemed better then the other white lithium option I have on hand.

Now after new bearings, tire, and re-wired & refurbishing my fuel pump, my Ulysses is back in business. The plan is to get this bike ship shape to take over roll as daily driver and save my old ZG1000 for my real deal bad weather bike. Last thing I'd like to try to make this thing just right would be a lowering block, spring, or shock to drop my rear an inch, and possibly some bar risers to drop my front forks to match this would be a definite keeper. I do appreciate the help from all of the Buell support community!

 

[Cooter]

Glad you got it figured out:up:

There are low seats available for the Uly but be careful the seat base doesn't lay on the ECM harness. Search...

If you change the height of it, make sure the front and rear match exactly. There are different shocks you can swap in the rear and either a fork or fork spring change in front. Bar risers don't do that.

Have fun and post pics!

 

[Camp762]

View attachment 7309

I've got the low seat and the PO wrapped the ecm which the seat still clears. I'd like the bar risers to allow me to drop the front forks an inch in conjunction with a lower rear shock/spring/bracket, I bit shorter so I'm not tippie towing this beast. I took the gals out for a wash and some sun. Sunna is back in business and hopefully for the long run to take over as daily drive and keep Frigg as my bad weather bike for rain and cold riding.