kiwi1125cr
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- May 1, 2011
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Can you help with link to remove throttle solinoid for 1125cr 2010? KIWI [cool]
Throttle solinoid removale help ?
- Thread starter kiwi1125cr
- Start date
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Puzzled
Well-known member
De-noid" removing the active intake solenoid
Here is a brief tutorial on how to "De-noid" an 1125.
1. Remove seat ,2 torx screws under the rear corners of the seat.
2. Remove outer air box cover ,4 torx screws, two along side the gas filler, two at the rear of the cover that the seat covers.
3. Remove the fuel overflow hose from the air box cover.
4. Remove inner air box cover, several plastic clips around the perimeter.
5. Remove air filter
6. Remove air filter holder, 2 torx screws, two wire connectors, wiring harness, vent hose. The assembly pulls off with a little bit of resistance.
7. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point.
8. Loosen 10MM jam nut to allow the removal of the cable from the holder.
9. Unplug solenoid at wire harness connector.
10. Insert resistor into plug in wire harness.
11. Remove two 5/32 allen head bolts from solenoid. This will allow access to the torx screw that holds the solenoid bracket to the frame. Remove torx screw.
12. Remove the solenoid bracket, solenoid and cable.
Here is a brief tutorial on how to "De-noid" an 1125.
1. Remove seat ,2 torx screws under the rear corners of the seat.
2. Remove outer air box cover ,4 torx screws, two along side the gas filler, two at the rear of the cover that the seat covers.
3. Remove the fuel overflow hose from the air box cover.
4. Remove inner air box cover, several plastic clips around the perimeter.
5. Remove air filter
6. Remove air filter holder, 2 torx screws, two wire connectors, wiring harness, vent hose. The assembly pulls off with a little bit of resistance.
7. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point.
8. Loosen 10MM jam nut to allow the removal of the cable from the holder.
9. Unplug solenoid at wire harness connector.
10. Insert resistor into plug in wire harness.
11. Remove two 5/32 allen head bolts from solenoid. This will allow access to the torx screw that holds the solenoid bracket to the frame. Remove torx screw.
12. Remove the solenoid bracket, solenoid and cable.
Puzzled
Well-known member
#5
#6
#6
Puzzled
Well-known member
Overall view.
#7 and #8.
#7 and #8.
Puzzled
Well-known member
#9 and #10.
#12.
#12.
Puzzled
Well-known member
I zip tied the linkage together today. I honestly couldn't see how they could ever move independent of each other. Those with more experience said to do it so I did! 
Puzzled
Well-known member
While I was in there I made the bracket as suggested. The tape lines indicate where I am going to cut.
A little time on the table sander, a few squirts of black paint and it is good to go.
Installed.
A little time on the table sander, a few squirts of black paint and it is good to go.
Installed.
Puzzled
Well-known member
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RESISTOR PLUG, DEUTSCH DTM06-2S-P006
Y0248.1AM
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Found 1 product(s) for Y0248.1AM (1-1 of 1)
New
RESISTOR PLUG, DEUTSCH DTM06-2S-P006
Y0248.1AM
Price $6.02 $4.82
kiwi1125cr
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Thanks for the premo how to and pics etc puzzled.I have got the Y0248.1AM .I was wondering about a couple things, what is the bracket you made for? and doing the denoid what is the advantige ? Is it a notisable performance gain? KIWI [cool]
I have got the Y0248.1AM .I was wondering about a couple things, what is the bracket you made for? and doing the denoid what is the advantige ? Is it a notisable performance gain? KIWI [cool]
Puzzled
Well-known member
The bracket holds the right rear corner of the air box in place.
The advantage of the de-noid is to eliminate the solenoid from kicking in at a certain RPM (I believe it was intended for noise emissions). I can't aswer if there is a difference as I did the de-noid almost immediately after taking delivery however I would think that there is.
The advantage of the de-noid is to eliminate the solenoid from kicking in at a certain RPM (I believe it was intended for noise emissions). I can't aswer if there is a difference as I did the de-noid almost immediately after taking delivery however I would think that there is.
kiwi1125cr
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Hi puzzled again thanks for the info ile do the de noid etc in the near future and let you know weather i notice a performance difference .Thanks again KIWI [cool]
Kiwi,
You can also just add the EBR ECM and that disables the noid. RT and Puzzled told me that. They also said you can still yank the noid out to strip 5 or so pounds excess off the bike. Choice is yours, of course (up) Puzzled and RT seem to know these bikes very well. It seems like I'm always giving them a +1 on every post they make because it's always useful/helpful stuff. Hope you git'r running good!
You can also just add the EBR ECM and that disables the noid. RT and Puzzled told me that. They also said you can still yank the noid out to strip 5 or so pounds excess off the bike. Choice is yours, of course (up) Puzzled and RT seem to know these bikes very well. It seems like I'm always giving them a +1 on every post they make because it's always useful/helpful stuff. Hope you git'r running good!
kiwi1125cr
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Hi Puzzled i did the Denoid and found it has given me a more responsive throttle,it used to have a bit of lag in the higher gears wich has disapeerd sins i did Denoid so well worth doing. Thanks again for all you guys help etc.[cool] KIWI.
The EBR ECM disables the solinoid, right? My Cr will get a funky idle in 2nd and 3rd gear around 3500-4k rpm. It feels/sounds like a car when it's "missing." This could be normal, I dk. Just curious if it could be the solinoid. I have a k&n filter, EBR ECM, and FMF exhaust.
poinographer
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- Jul 18, 2010
- Messages
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Wha? I don't understand. You are "idling" in 2nd/3rd gear? At 3500rpm? Doesn't sound like what I would call idling.
Are you rolling when this happens? Maybe this is during a closed-throttle deceleration? If you're moving, maybe it's the back-torque limiter.
Are you rolling when this happens? Maybe this is during a closed-throttle deceleration? If you're moving, maybe it's the back-torque limiter.
I should've clarified better, my bad. Idling was poor word choice. Cruising at a steady speed with the RPMs around 3500-4k. It's hard to explain. Thought that it was maybe a bad ground at 1st, but that doesn't seem to be the case. It's not a smooth even cruise sound. It'll be smooth and then give every so slightly, then be smooth, then give, and so on. Like a "miss," but it's only around 4k that I feel/hear it. Anything more and it's gone. Anything less than 3500 and it's gone and it's only in 2nd and 3rd when I feel it. I can blip the throttle when it does this and she'll take off, so I don't think it's the solinoid.
kiwi1125cr
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Im running modified stock pipe(I like the look of it) Pity about the weight tho.And i found that after about the first 10.000 klm. bike was still total stock i noticed in lower gears at around 3500 to 4000 rpm it also has a stumble. You know errrraerrrraerrraerrrrarrrr You get the picter(a slight miss)and thats before i opend up pipe. Have you noticed that you only have to add slight throttle and its gone.? But i have noticed with mine that when im at sea level it goes away. So i think its getting a little more fuell than it needs when im inland.I think a ajustment in my stock ecm should sort it. [cool] KIWI.
That's what mine does, kiwl. It only takes a little throttle to even it out. I typically shift gears around this point anyway. I'm just curious as to what's causing it. Maybe it's just a simple answer that these beasts don't like to be in low gears. They're race worthy and want to be in higher gear. In higher gearing, like 3 and up, I don't have this problem. Only 1st and 2nd. Oh well
