BuellRonin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2013
- Messages
- 383
Did my first bleed/flush job on my bike. Got through it with no issues. But after a day of riding I noticed some fluid around the valves. So I cleaned it up and just though it was something I missed. But it sat on my brain that night. So next day, got up and inspected them again. I pulled the cap off and saw a tiny bit, but figured it had not had time to dry. But when I went to put the rubber cap on, I heard a suction noise and then saw tiny bubbles/fluid come out around the threads. I continued to do this and it continued to happen.
So I thought I had a leak of some sort. I asked about t-tape on the threads as a solutions and decided to get some new ones just in case. I got some advice and info about torque specs (which I checked against the manual as well, they were correct) for the bleed valves. I went to put the new valves on (rear), and bleed again accordingly. I thought I had not tightened it correctly the first go round. So I hand tightened, and after that put the torque wrench on. Now, the manual says 36-60 in-lbs. So I like to be in the middle and went with 48 in-lbs. And as I wrenched it slowly, waiting for the "click", the head snapped off.
Well, fauck. But I felt I could fix this with some extractor tool fun and continued on my way. Now, after trying the extractor bit and it not being able to get the broken valve to budge I went to remove it and it snapped off in the valve.
Now, the battle was over for the rear caliper and I had lost that one...but not the war. After thinking about it I realized there had to be a tiny space where there could be space for air and residual fluid to be. Even if I had closed the opening between the caliper and valve correctly. And since the hole on the valve isn't super sealed, it would make sense that if I applied pressure to valve it would force air in and push the residual fluid out around the threads. I just needed to spray brake parts cleaner in the valve to evaporate any left over fluid.
So, I tried again with my front brake caliper, possibly being my next victim. After installing new valve and bleeding I tightened the valve by hand. Forgetting the torque specs of death, I just wrenched it slightly till it was tight. I went through with the brake parts cleaner and kept testing with the rubber cap until there was no more fluid pushing through.
I ended up causing more problems by over thinking a simple job, because I didn't thoroughly clean out the residual fluid. And watching to many youtube videos and not ending up with the same results as others put my mind in a panic, now I know.
So, if anyone has the part number to a rear caliper for a 2005 buell xb12Scg or if other years will fit my bike, please let me know.
Sharing the pain and the gain.
So I thought I had a leak of some sort. I asked about t-tape on the threads as a solutions and decided to get some new ones just in case. I got some advice and info about torque specs (which I checked against the manual as well, they were correct) for the bleed valves. I went to put the new valves on (rear), and bleed again accordingly. I thought I had not tightened it correctly the first go round. So I hand tightened, and after that put the torque wrench on. Now, the manual says 36-60 in-lbs. So I like to be in the middle and went with 48 in-lbs. And as I wrenched it slowly, waiting for the "click", the head snapped off.
Well, fauck. But I felt I could fix this with some extractor tool fun and continued on my way. Now, after trying the extractor bit and it not being able to get the broken valve to budge I went to remove it and it snapped off in the valve.
Now, the battle was over for the rear caliper and I had lost that one...but not the war. After thinking about it I realized there had to be a tiny space where there could be space for air and residual fluid to be. Even if I had closed the opening between the caliper and valve correctly. And since the hole on the valve isn't super sealed, it would make sense that if I applied pressure to valve it would force air in and push the residual fluid out around the threads. I just needed to spray brake parts cleaner in the valve to evaporate any left over fluid.
So, I tried again with my front brake caliper, possibly being my next victim. After installing new valve and bleeding I tightened the valve by hand. Forgetting the torque specs of death, I just wrenched it slightly till it was tight. I went through with the brake parts cleaner and kept testing with the rubber cap until there was no more fluid pushing through.
I ended up causing more problems by over thinking a simple job, because I didn't thoroughly clean out the residual fluid. And watching to many youtube videos and not ending up with the same results as others put my mind in a panic, now I know.
So, if anyone has the part number to a rear caliper for a 2005 buell xb12Scg or if other years will fit my bike, please let me know.
Sharing the pain and the gain.
