TPS Problems

[midnightrider10]

I recently bought ECMSPY and the cable. I went to reset my tps, went through all the steps and my idle was rough still. I hit a button "TPS Reset" and i unknowingly set my tps on the computer back to 0. My problem is my idle adjustment is way out of wack now and my TPS reading on ECMSPY is way off, resulting the bike not starting.

Is there anyway I can put both the idle adjustment on the bike and in ECMSPY back to what it originally was?

On the idle adjustment screw connected to the throttle body, I have no idea how far in/out the screw should even be now :/

Im not sure whether or not the bike isnt starting because of the adjustment screw or if I goofed something up on ECMSPY

I'd appreciate any help, thanks-- Jason

 

[dallasb]

Have you read the tuning guide? It has a nice little right up in section 10 about how to do a TPS reset. But to answer your question...I don't think there is a way to set the computer back up to the way it was before you clicked reset. Its actually very easy to do a TPS reset as long as you follow the directions at ecmspy

 

[Alfatango1]

Dallas is correct as always, but my two cents... It's your idle adjustment screw. It's needs to be backed out ALL the way until it stops after your screen says 0... Then hit reset, set you percentages and or degrees, then start, then set idle...

 

[dallasb]

I had to set my idle to 5.9% as it didn't idle worth crap at 5.2%. Not really sure why as I set the bike to 5.2 when I first got it but then I added a few go fast/make noise mods. at 5.2 it was idling at ~750...after I adjusted the timing it was at 850. So in order to get it around the 950-1050 mark it took 5.9%. And as alfatango put on the other post...it does help to pull the left side scoop off...you don't HAVE to but it does make life much easier.

 

[midnightrider10]

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate them!

I am sooo confused/angry! I pulled off the airbox and took everything off down to the throttle body, I even took off the rubber funnel that connects ontop of the throttle body.

I then did a proper reset with the bare throttle body (without airbox/filter) and everything sounded and idled amazing! I was so excited, I began putting the intake back on, and the filter and airbox.

Well after everything was put back on, the bike wont start?!?! I put everything properly back in place but does the difference in air consumption from open throttle body to sealed airbox with filter affect my TPS drastically enough for the bike to not start?

thanks again guys, its been really tough with the bike running awesome one minute, then not running at all.

Somebody save me!!!!

 

[flyeboy]

From version 1.6 tuning guide: "Always backup the ECM the first time you connect to your Buell, Save this file and back it up to a safe location, CD or another machine! This file is essential if anything goes wrong and you need to recover your ECM." and "All the Fuel Maps, Ignition Maps, TPS value, AFV value etc are contained somewhere within the EEPROM data." Perhaps if you restored your backup and started from scratch again? I am new to EMCSPY as well and was worried about the same type of mistake--thought i had remembered reading this. Maybe one of the more experienced users can verify/contradict this being an idea worth trying?....

 

[dallasb]

Yes the data is saved in the saved EEPROM files. However, since the adjustment screw has been turned, your idle will still be off. I wouldn't suggest doing a TPS reset with the filter off the bike since it isn't how you will actually be riding the bike. Midnightrider, PM me your phone number and I may be able to help you over the phone.

 

[midnightrider10]

I tried zeroing the butteryfly and attemptimg another reset this morning. I'm assuming the reason the bike isnt starting has to do with either my ECMSPY tps setup on my computer or my idle adjustment in relation to the software; causing fouling FI. The bike is turning over and I know its getting spark because I bought new plugs and gapped them yesterday.

I dont know whether this matters or not but there is an oxidation ring inside the throttle body (it looks like thats where the butterfly has always been for the past 7 years). But when I set the butterfly even with the oxidation ring in the throttle body, it reads over 6.1%. My instinct tells me to place the butterfly inline with the oxidation ring (so that the butterfly is set where it originally was) but the bike wont start there either

The bike seemed to be running decent yesterday until i messed with the TPS and idle adjustment, now it wont even start.

I'm recharging my battery but does anyone have any ideas? It was running yesterday and the only thing I have tampered with was TPS. It ran really well last night then when i put on and closed the airbox it wouldnt even start.

any suggestions? Thanks guys I appreciate all the help

 

[Alfatango1]

Don't panic yet, mine had similar issue and I had just wore my battery down enough not to start. Check those battery cable connections too, a losse connenction killed me also.

 

[midnightrider10]

I did move the placement of the battery and had to reconnect the terminals, but would that matter if the bike is still getting enough power to turn the motor?

thanks-- Jason

 

[dallasb]

Check your spark plug wires. One may not have been tight and wiggled loose when you took the airbox off.

 

[midnightrider10]

Dallasb,

I checked all spark plug wires and they were in tact. I have noticed that when the ignition is turned on, the fuel pump appears to sound different than before. Almost as if the pump sounds more of a "wine" and possibly louder as well?

The bike was sitting over the winter, I recently drained the old gas and filled it with 91 octane fresh gas yesterday. I have no thoughts on why the pump worked fine yesterday and has a different pitch today....

At this point my mind could be playing tricks on me, I'm at a loss. The battery is still charging but im running out of ideas. I have noticed that a red idiot light occasionally comes on when ignition is on, then goes away?

 

[midnightrider10]

*Update

I checked my manual, the check engine light comes on initially, then goes off and stays off after 3 seconds. The manual says that this means there are no trouble codes from the ECU.

Its very crazy though, sometimes when i turn the key both the check engine and the oil light come on; then ill turn the key off and wait 2 seconds and no idiot lights pop up at all.

I cant believe this thing was running yesterday and doing this to me today :/

 

[midnightrider10]

Update #2 [mad]

I decided to pull the plugs and check them. Both electrodes were still white (I bought them yesterday); However, I pulled the plugs and reattached the coils to do a spark test. Neither of the spark plugs shocked me when I cranked the motor. Shouldn't they send out a few volts and shock me when the starter is cranking and i place a finger in the gap? Both plugs I bought new from HD yesterday (Part #'s match and both were gapped to manual specs)

Whoever is still reading my continuous updates, I appreciate it. Any suggestions after reading the previous 3 posts?

 

[nativeXb12Rbuell]

on your first post, if i am understaning you correctly you think you MIS-RESET your TPS to 0, and clicked the reset TPS button when you was NOT REALLY READY OR wasnt at the correct reading to reset it.(meaning the butterfly valve was NOT REALLY CLOSED ALL THE WAY LIKE IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN) an now it is idling ROUGH,(IT NOW IDLES ROUGH BECAUSE YOUR tps IS not correct it is basicly out of calibration, which will effect everything....The TPS is the essence of this tuning.
If the TPS value is incorrect, the ECM will provide the amount of fuel required for the wrong throttle setting and hence poor running will occur. A worse scenario is if you tune the bike with an incorrect TPS value, then any future correction to TPS will result in incorrect fuel maps

hopes this will help you or someone in the future that may make the easy mistake you did. easy fix.

the only and best way to correct it(in a situation like where you reset it at the wrong postion) and reset your TPS to where it should be is to look at the TPS screw on the throttle body itself and back it off(back it off all the way where it almost unscrews all the way, if you have just to make sure) where the screw is not touching at all.it is the screw under both of the throttle cables on the front of the throttle body.(you will need to remove all off the airbox upper & lower) then twist your throttle several times and release it each time to make sure the butterfly valve is COMPLETLY CLOSED and then hold the throttle closed with light clockwise pressure on the throttle grip., and then press reset TPS (note the values on degrees & percent should both read ZERO RIGHT NOW,.)after you press reset TPS wait for it to say (onthe bottom of the ECMSPY window) tps reset comlpete or done. now turn the idle adjuster again until it reads 5.2 to 5.6 degrees . then you can start it up an let it warm up to 160C(320F) and then adjust the IDLE TO 1050 to 1150 RPM. that is all there is to it . and then you can do any tuning from there if want. hope that helps. please remember if the TPS is off then it effect everything else.

 

[nativeXb12Rbuell]

on your other post it sounds like either a dead or BAD BATTERY, try to charge it or try to Carefuuly jump start it. or you may have changed something else on your ECM with ECMSPY, what else EXACTLY did you do with ecmspy or look at in ecmspy or copy or upload or download , burn or fetch or change with in the ecmspy program.????

 

[midnightrider10]

Thanks for the post! I figured all that out the hard way but I finally did a successful reset.

I think my fueling is correct but now I'm not getting any spark. I tested both plugs and I wasn't getting spark on either. I read the manual and figured out how to test the cables but not the coil itself.

Is their a fuse or something for the ignition coil? I'd hate to order a new ignition coil and wires when their might just be a fuse broken. I don't believe it's the spark plugs because I bought both of them yesterday and both the electrodes are still white and I gapped both of them between .35-.40.

I can't seem to figure out why I'm not getting spark, the motor is turning over really well, I'm positive I did a correct tps reset.

Any suggestion? Thanks again for all the time and effort

 

[dallasb]

Yes there is an ignition fuse. Check out the service manual at the top of the page. It may not be for your exact bike but it should be close enough. According to my manual it says that the IGN fuse is in the top right corner of the fuse box. If you need a picture I'd be glad to copy it for you. Good luck.

Edit: "To disable the motorcycle's ignition system, pull the battery fuse up and out of the fuse box."

 

[midnightrider10]

I bought a new battery a few days ago so I'm sure it's not the battery. I ran the battery out yesterday but I just hooked it up to a 2 amp trickle charger and it's good to go.

Dallas- I checked all my fuses yesterday and none of them were blown but i'd really appreciate a photo if you wouldn't mind. I've noticed there seems to be 2 seperate fuse boxes. One with typical fuses and the other seems to have 3 fairly large, grey, block fuses. Are those fuses? If so, How would I go about testing them? I'm still unsure where the ignition fuse is.

I know my plugs aren't getting spark I'm just trying to get to the bottom of things.

As far as ecmspy, the absolute only thing I have altered was a tps reset, which I now know how to properly preform.

It's kind of ironic, 3 days ago the bike was starting very well but was running with rough idle, 2 days ago I was having fuel issues but getting spark, now I've correct the fuel but not getting any spark down to my plugs.

Thanks for all the help, I live out in BFE so a dealership really isn't a option.

Thanks again guys