TPS reset makes no difference

[Nade]

My bike ran a bit rough on my last outing. Idle was low, coughed thru the intake every now and then and then eventually wouldn't hold an Idle for more than 20 seconds before shutting off.

I thought those helpful and knowledgeable forum guys will know whats wrong....I'll give them half the story, with vauge descriptions. and before you know it it'll be firing off down the road in no time.

Seeing as its been a while......TPS reset...fixes all Idle problems, but failing that i'll get a Race tune and reflash the ecm....always wanted a 'race' tune.

While I muck around getting a tune for my std bike.....I'll chuck a set of plugs at it. Its been longer than I can remember. Can't hurt can it?
:upset:

 

[34nineteen]

My bike ran a bit rough on my last outing. Idle was low, coughed thru the intake every now and then and then eventually wouldn't hold an Idle for more than 20 seconds before shutting off.

I thought those helpful and knowledgeable forum guys will know whats wrong....I'll give them half the story, with vauge descriptions. and before you know it it'll be firing off down the road in no time.

Seeing as its been a while......TPS reset...fixes all Idle problems, but failing that i'll get a Race tune and reflash the ecm....always wanted a 'race' tune.

While I muck around getting a tune for my std bike.....I'll chuck a set of plugs at it. Its been longer than I can remember. Can't hurt can it?
:upset:

Wouldn't hurt to pull them out and take a look. Also, I'd recommend to check the the intake seals and the fuel pressure (49 psi). Check your AFV to make sure thats not out of whack. If its too far over 100, its a sign that the bike is running lean.

 

[Nade]

AFV was 93.
Plugs arrived today but I was at work so the courier decided to NOT leave them and took them back to the depot with him. I'll get them tomorrow.
Intakes I've given a squirt and no change to RPM's. I do have a spare set of intake seals for 'just in case sake' I got when I changed them a couple of years ago, Blue 'James' type I think......they are somewhere in my tool box.
I'll do the Plugs before anything else.....just to see what difference is made.
I have a Fuel Pump Kit from LF Industries if that turns out to be the issue. From a memory when I bought the bike, the previous owner said he changed the fuel pump and the cooling fan......everything else he had touched was a disaster that I had to correct or remove so here's hoping its not failing.

 

[34nineteen]

Hmm, running rich, but not too badly. The AFV "swings" around a bit as the motor runs, so it may be at the rich side at the time you checked. Your description of the issue sounds more like a lean mix than rich.


When you do the plugs, I would recommend to check the seals again. Not that I think you did it wrong the first time, but you have to remove the LH scoop to get at the plugs which will give better access to the intake flanges. Unless of course you pulled the scoop when you checked the seals.

Also, even if the new pump is failing or just the victim of a hot mess installation, it would be putting out less fuel than more, which would also call out a lean condition.

I'm sure you checked this also, but verify the TPS reading is "smooth" (like me) with no dropouts (like CoOter) as you rotate the throttle. This is kind of a long shot, and more of an excuse to take a dig at CoOter, so I figured why not.

 

[Nade]

I had a play with the throttle and found it is not snapping back like I think it, or thought it used to. Kinda snaps 2/3 of the way then slows and feels like there is way less tension on the return for that last 1/3. I will be investigating further when the air box comes off to fit the plugs, as I fitted Venhill teflon cables and I remember how smooth and faultless it was back then.....I raved about them.
I didn't get the plugs today, too damn busy at work atm.
I will look at the drop out situation, its kinda fun to keep the 'odd' one around just for ****s and giggles. Its the drop outs that go full retard, like teabag the russian, you never wanna go full retard. I hear you just add beer, or take it away as the situation deems and a drop out will do most things atleast once.....Go on Cooter tell us we are wrong!

*edit* I do remember now that when I went to do the TPS reset that the throttle felt different. After I wound the idle out, I did a visual of the Butterfly to ensure it was closed fully and assumed (I fkn hate assumptions) the different-ness was the butterfly sticking closed as described in the manual when the Idle is wound out.....might be that my flash cables are dirty/sticky, or they are pinching some where, return spring losing tension? Or or or maybe the 'race tune' will fix it!!!! Just add beer, and don't go full 'tard.

*edit2* going to pull the front plug now.....can't help myself...must....know.....why.......!

*edit3* bottom plug is the front one, top one is the rear. They are fooked. centre electrodes are sloping down or back towards the outer post and look slightly swollen at the tip...well, thats what she said.....but I digress.

 

[Nade]

"don't go full 'tard" I said...When I last fitted my tank bag, there is a strap that goes round the neck and under the frame by the front engine mount......I had it on the wrong side of the throttle cables pushing them against the frame....when I released it the throttle loosened up. One less beer next time 'tard! :sleeping:

 

[34nineteen]

"don't go full 'tard" I said...

too late!

I'm kidding. Thanks for reporting back the results and the positive reviews of the Venhill cables.

 

[Nade]

by the by, an NGK Iridium plug to buy from the local parts store REPCO an Australian company is $72, here is the plug:
https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/ignition/spark-plugs/ngk-iridium-ix-spark-plug-dcpr8eix/p/A1221321?kwSearch=NGK%20dcpr8eix

You can imagine my response to that price check!!! I got some from the local Auto Electrician (admittedly we use them at least once a week cos I hate working on the electrics of our American Kenworths so I got a Trade Discount) they sold them to me for $35 each, 1/2 the price.
REPCO is Known by another name here....Rip Every Poor C**t Off.....bloody Australians. The joys of living in buttfk no where at the bottom of the world.

Buelling down here is for the dedicated!

 

[34nineteen]

by the by, an NGK Iridium plug to buy from the local parts store REPCO an Australian company is $72, here is the plug:
https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/ignition/spark-plugs/ngk-iridium-ix-spark-plug-dcpr8eix/p/A1221321?kwSearch=NGK%20dcpr8eix

You can imagine my response to that price check!!! I got some from the local Auto Electrician (admittedly we use them at least once a week cos I hate working on the electrics of our American Kenworths so I got a Trade Discount) they sold them to me for $35 each, 1/2 the price.
REPCO is Known by another name here....Rip Every Poor C**t Off.....bloody Australians. The joys of living in buttfk no where at the bottom of the world.

Buelling down here is for the dedicated!

I've never noticed a difference in the NGK Iridiums. I think my bike runs better with the Harley 10R12X(OE spec for the XR1200, which is basically an XB engine). This plug supposedly has an electrode designed to resist fouling, which I feel is helpful with the "high state of tune" and the rudimentary injection of our bikes, especially as they age.

 

[Nade]

Yes I have heard that the only real difference is the iridiums longevity and its resistance to fouling. 60k as opposed to 10k for an OE plug. Changing the plugs every 10k does have the added bonus of getting the chance to view the throttle body/ intake assy etc up close. Thru my job sadly I'm used to some people only doing maintenance on Vehicals when there is a problem which can lead to costly repairs and downtime. Ive learned to take the chance to check things over at every opportunity, whether its needed or not.

 

[Nade]

Plugs are in, idles much better. no popping or dropping off. Much less backfire on run down, but still a little crackle just to say HI!

 

[Nade]

Spoke too soon, went for a ride and symptoms reappeared. Checked intakes seal again (with ether) to be sure beyond a doubt. Pressure tested the fuel pump ...... oh dear. It could build pressure but not keep it up......sounds familiar.
I removed the pump......it's fokn trash!!! Photos to come. If I could I would pass the address of the guy who did this on as he needs bashing. The engineer in me wants him banned for life from touching tools. The Neanderthal in me wants to club him daily for the rest of his life.

 

[Nade]

Rebuilt it using a Kit from John tonight. Fitted it, put some fuel in, hooked it up turned the key and silence.......I was shocked, but in a good way......the previous pump screeched like a banshee and in comparison the hiss the new pump makes now is blissful silence. It started instantly, idled for a second then switched it off cos Neighbours at 9:30pm.
test ride tomorrow.

The 'thing' I took out that resembled a regulator was stamped with a Chrysler logo? and "Ethanol Compatible"
The filter was black and looked like it had been modified to fit, well, broken the spine of it to make it fit.
The hose clamps were bolt type with 10mm heads and the threads were way to long FFS and it was obvious when taking it out that there had been a fight getting it in with damage to the seal seat in the frame.
The base plate has been hammered on one edge and one bolt hole was so damaged it was gripping the bolt and causing it to bind ALL THE WAY OUT> same bolt is unsure if it wants to be an Allen head or Torx type, its been molested by both. Let just call it 'damaged goods'.
The holder for the pump had been damaged by the frame as it was hammered in, leaving a big gark and a aluminium spike/splinter that drew blood upon removal, which by the way, when your hands are covered in fuel can sting quite alot.
I realise now what the marks are on the swing arm and how they got there. They had puzzled me since...forever....
The Damaged low fuel sender...like it looks like its been crushed in a pair of side cutters...thats beyond me, can't comprehend how, or why the fk he did that, or that it still worked!!
I disconnected the connecter for the low fuel sender and it fell off the wire.
The yellow plastic shavings I found in alarming amounts, on the filter and in the frame and a couple of unlucky bugs.
I left the garage at one point, absolutely fuming, I had to get away from it before I lost my ****. Beer helped!
The stupid are getting stupider.

 

[Cooter]

'I have a buddy that can fix it'.
:mad-new:

 

[Nade]

Photo's of the old pump. Note the hose clamps, damage to the pump/ filter holder caused by forcing it into the frame during fitment, the filter has been bent to the point the stiffeners were broken or I suspect cut with side cutters so it would fit. My FAVORITE tho is the crushed low fuel sender......I mean REALLY!? Cheap nasty parts bought off ebay? I suspect that is the case.

 

[Nade]

The pump came out of a 2004 XB12s. I bought a replacement pump some time ago for a 2003 XB9r.

 

[Nade]

The joys or working on Buell's.
The 12S in this thread seemed to develop worsening problems the more I fixed things. It started easier with new plugs, idled smoother with a new fuel pump, but as soon as I went for another test ride the damn thing started missing and back firing thru the intake again, then wouldn't idle at all, had to keep it running on the throttle. It's possible this whole time the CPS has been failing.

I have one day till I am going away to a Bike Rally and my bike is is a non starter. Parts will not get here before I leave......what do I do?

Rolling over and giving up is not an option. I ain't no Meow.

Out back in the back room, hidden from society is the first Buell I ever owned. A 2003 Japanese Model XB9R, with 20k on it, still new looking......but I have scavenged it for bits and pieces to keep the 12S alive. What do I do....?

I started at 8am this morning, took the day off work, removed every thing from the 12S that I 'borrowed' from the 9R over 3 years.
Exhaust bits, clutch cable/ lever and bits, oil cooler, fuse's, relays, Belt idler, numerous bolts, shifter, foot pegs, battery....
Re assembled the 9R with no problems, everything fit as it should with undamaged fastener's and was comparatively a joy to work on.
It started on the first touch of the button, and settled into a nice lumpy cold start idle, just as it always did. Went for a test ride and it coughed once, can't blame it after 3 years of storage. Its now 1:25pm and its soaking ready for its wash. I'm happy to have it, and to be still going to the rally....Woodstock 2023.

The 12S on the other hand is hanging from the rafters by a rope with its bits all over the floor, I love that bike damn it!

 

[kz6fittycent]

Photo's of the old pump. Note the hose clamps, damage to the pump/ filter holder caused by forcing it into the frame during fitment, the filter has been bent to the point the stiffeners were broken or I suspect cut with side cutters so it would fit. My FAVORITE tho is the crushed low fuel sender......I mean REALLY!? Cheap nasty parts bought off ebay? I suspect that is the case.
View attachment 16722
View attachment 16723
View attachment 16724

Looks about like mine did when I replaced all of it. I do not mean it looked like that when I put it back in, I mean it looked about like that when I pulled it out...

 

[Nade]

My first time rebuilding a Buell fuel pump. I can only hope the next one won't be like that. :upset:

 

[Nade]

So now that I have re built the XB9 the 12S is going to be pushed to one side for a month or 2 until a couple of other jobs are complete and I can have my workshop back to myself. Then there are plans of stripping it and re painting it, re-place wheel bearings etc and getting it running properly. I love that bike, I don't care about the cost, its a love affair.