trouble code and power bucking problem questions.

[thebenshow]

I have a trouble code reader for my xb9r. installed, the unit flashes 11 times. in the manual it recommends testing or replacing my throttle position sensor. Which makes sense because I'm having a buck and surging problem when modulating throttle (mostly around 4K RPM) As if it's missing firing and momentarily losing engine power. Not electrical power loss, just handling characteristics.

The guy who sold me the reader ( who really seem to know his stuff...really...) says that I have no fault showing because it's not one of the "readers" codes but the factory ones listed in the manual. I diagnosed the reader by disconnecting a couple of sensors to see. It works as ordered.

Basically, i was under the impression that in order for a factory trouble code to flash, the engine light would be on all the time while running the bike. it only flashes for a second during start-up and does the oil light which i understand is normal.

Any thoughts?

Ive changes the plugs which were disgusting, cleaned and checked the plug cables. now throttle body et al on the way and a ECM spy cable.

humbly welcoming suggestions as I'm quickly losing my riding season...

Thanks,
Ben

[confused][confused][confused][confused][down][down][down][mad][mad][mad][confused][confused][smirk][smirk][smirk][smirk]

 

[buellxb9rs]

Check ground cables first

 

[thebenshow]

Check for what?

 

[XRorXB]

Basically, i was under the impression that in order for a factory trouble code to flash, the engine light would be on all the time while running the bike. it only flashes for a second during start-up and does the oil light which i understand is normal.

The Check Engine lamp is only turned on for current faults, but not historic faults. If I'm interpreting your description correctly, you have a historic code 11 but no current code.

As mentioned above, check your grounds and connectors. Per the service manual, "An open or short to ground in R/W or BK/W wires will also result in a Code 11". Assuming those are ok, get a voltmeter and check for a smooth, linear voltage signal to be within the specified ranges, with no spikes, as the throttle is opened and closed.

the unit flashes 11 times...

This is more of a side-question, but does this code reader unit make the check engine light flash, or does the unit itself (plugged into diags port) flash? For trouble code '56', you would have to count 56 flashes? [confused] . The pin jumper method would have given you two "1" digit flashes instead of 11 flashes for code 11.

 

[ich]

you would have to count 56 flashes?

11

 

[thebenshow]

The "reader" i have is not the kind with a screen as per the Harley Davidson unit. It's from American sport bike and basically consists of a four port connector that is wired with a few looped cables to initiate flash series' of the engine light. An error code from the unit i bought would come up as 6 flashes then 5 then 6 more for a cam position sensor (as an example only).

I changed and gaped the plugs (0.040)last night which did result in some more pep while riding. didn't solve the surging problem but as i stated above I have a new throttle body, tps, injectors, etc coming and an ecm spy cable to reset it all.

My idle was a bit low so i turned it up a tad. During my ride around the hood, i noticed my idle was around 2000 so when i got home i proceeded to turn it down. Due to a faulty Neutral position indicator switch, I had to ground the lead to trick the bike so that it's OK to run on the side stand. not he bike turns but wont start. while messing with that (idle adjustment) i couldn't get it to go. my friend said i may have flooded it and said to wait a hour before trying again. Fine with me, and being frustrated, a break was a good idea. I decided to chill until morning.

LIKE A FOOL!!!! i left the neutral indicator line bypassed to a ground which proceeded to drain my battery overnight. Damn now I'm stuck going by cab to get a charger and wait until tomorrow. Is it safe to use a higher amperage and jump start the bike? it;s a newer battery and i don't want to ruin it.[mad]

 

[thebenshow]

To hell with jumping her....

I'm still waiting for my spy cable and induction module to arrive.

The bike is now charged up properly. Turns over but wont start. I was messing with the idle cable before so I'm assuming that's why she won't start.

What happens when the idle adjustment cable is turned too far? Does it flood from the first try?

Will update asap.

Thanks all,
Ben

 

[thebenshow]

OK, don't think idle adjustment is the problem as it doesn't start turned up or down.

The fan runs a short high - low cycle every time i turn the engine off. Normally it only came on when the bike needed cooling. ( came on a little less often after installing right side scoop, like a quick trip up to the shops).

I get a flashing engine light as soon as i turn it on. I stopped counting after about 65... should i continue? I figure its best to see what the spy cable tells me.

Any ideas? main problem now is no start. Original problem was bogging mostly noticeable at 4k but got worse as you rode.

BTW, I ride with my RPMs q usually at or above 4500. lots of city driving and twisty back roads. 2nd gear in the city and 3-4 highway with fifth used a handful of times only for really long highway cruises.

Thanks in advance,
Ben

 

[buellxb9rs]

Just so you know, you can't blindly adjust the idle. You have to have the cable and ecmspy or tunerpro. You may find where it needs to be but it will take forever

 

[thebenshow]

Thanks, really. I didn't know. Ive made minor adjustments before but that was just up and down a few hundred RPMs.

SO back to waiting on the cable. Cool.

Any ideas why after changing the spark plugs it was suddenly idling at 2k?

Ben

 

[buellxb9rs]

Idling at 2k is usually a problem with the tps. So once the cable comes in. Make sure you follow the reset procedures very well so that it's reset to true zero then adjust it properly. Should fix that 2k problem. As for why it happened after the spark plug change, not positive, could have been bad plugs and so it wasn't showing up or the idle cable was bumped.

 

[thebenshow]

That makes sense.

Thanks.

 

[BuellyBagger]

download a service manual and run the diagnostics for trouble code 11. Follow the flow charts in the manual, it will usually point u in the right direction.

And u CAN adjust idle speed without ecmspy, that cable isnt ne amazing electro mechanical idle majigar. Its just a cable that goes to a screw(that u would be able to reach without the cable hooked to it) that sets how far the the throttle plate stays open when i let off the throttle. If u take ur side scoop off u can look up between the frame and then engine and see the end of the cable and the screw that moves the throttle linkage.

 

[buellxb9rs]

Yes, you can move the cable adjustment all you want, but it is read by a sensor, so good luck setting that correctly as you have no idea what position the tps is at.

 

[thebenshow]

I Just got another induction module delivered so i can more easily see how it all works. I'm wondering what the little air intake on the top of the intake is for?

it's not hooked up to anything on my bike but i have seen it capped off in pics of other bikes online.

Regarding the error code 11, it's for the TPS which i will try to reset before replacing it with the one i just got, or anything more drastic...


Ben

 

[BuellyBagger]

Yes, you can move the cable adjustment all you want, but it is read by a sensor, so good luck setting that correctly as you have no idea what position the tps is at.

right, but this is only important when doing a TPS reset, to make sure its zeroed and that u dont set it excessivley high after the reset for start up.

 

[BuellyBagger]

according to the buell service manual, if u can not find ne faults in the wiring to and from the tps and no faults with the operation of the TPS (so if u have a smooth transition of resistance in the sensor) and the problem is intermetent than the ECM should be replaced. so check for 5v reference voltage coming to the sensor and "wiggle test" the wiring harness. check for resistance in the ground and resistance in the signal wire that goes to the ecm from the TPS. if that all checks out and the TPS checks out, u might have a cooked ECM, but be very sure u've properly check every other part of the TPS circuit b4 dropping the money on an ECM.

I had the same bucking and stalling and occasional CEL issue, and it came back 150 miles after replacing the TPS (figured that would be the easiest fix) but after check all the wiring (finding no faults) and wasting $94 on the 2007-up tps (different than the 06 and below which can be bought @ ur local parts store) i came to the conclusion that the ECM must be bricked (with the help of the service manual). One new EBR ECM later and no more probs.

 

[thebenshow]

My bike won't hold a charge now either. Awesome.

I charged it from low power, (2A 24hrs). It's dead the next day.

The neutral position sensor isn't working, should i disconnect the cable for now? (new one on order) and would that matter?

Thanks again,
Ben

 

[BuellyBagger]

u have a short somewhere i bet

 

[thebenshow]

I'll grab my multimeter - which page in the service manual should i turn to? Any usual culprits you would recommend i check first?



Ben