trouble code and power bucking problem questions.

Buellxb Forum

Help Support Buellxb Forum:

I just read through the troubleshooting guide for the no start issue and realized that i don't have any of the diagnostic tools that they would have at the Harley shop.

Is this realistic with just a multimeter?

Ben
[confused]
 
well the service manual is going to recommend a "breakout box" which makes it easier to prob circuits, but u can do it without. Its just a bigger pain. It sounds like u might have some fairly elaborate wiring issues, might not hurt to take it to a shop(not nescassarily harley), especially if ur time is limited, these kinda things can take awhile.
 
OK, so finally my ECM spy cable came in. Installed and tested connection, program, etc.

Also, I MANAGED TO START MY BIKE!!!! OMFG!!!

I had the air intake cover,and the filter off. I had a rubber glove over the intake at the time and didn't expect it go! SO i fashioned a cheesecloth filter just for safe testing. and now we can see what is next.

Well i left it hooked up to the battery tonight to see if it will still leak and die overnight. I can muck around with it a bit and perform the tps reset.

How will i know if a TPS needs resetting or replacing? I have another on hand already.

BEN
 
Also, I am assuming that if the ECM spy program reads the data from my ECM then i can perhaps rule out the ECM itself as bad?

BEN
 
I had a rubber glove over the intake at the time and didn't expect it go!
Click to expand...
Made me laugh, while at the same time hope that you didn't suck a rubber glove into your engine [confused]
 
ha ha nope. But I did realize that by controlling the amout of opening, i can see how it affects the running engine. After the TPS reset, I'm going to toy carefullly a bit and take some notes as I am just a learning buell owner. which, i have come to accept means that i will have to learn to fix my bike myself if i want to own AND ride it.

NO prob Im a DIY guy so, with some help from you folks, I'll put another 10,000kms on it next year again. Hopefully that will be with just regular maintainence an not with countless hours in shop and awaiting parts.

Ill get into it tomorrow am and report as i get things done and more questions arise...

Thanks again for all the info and quick responses.

Ben
 
BuellyBagger,

If it read your ECM fine but the ECM was Faulty, How did you know the ECM for sure was faulty?
re: your earlier description: After your TPS going out again after 150 miles; was your next step was to put in the new ECM? Did you have any other symptoms at the time?
Basically the other question is, is it possible to need a TPS reset on a functional TPS?

BTW, I have another TPS to put in my bike. Should I try the reset first or just change it? The unit i have is used but from reputable parts source. Came complete with entire induction module from a running bike; same: make, model, year and kms. Great source(They part bikes out and are ridiculously cheap.) called:

http://stores.ebay.ca/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc

;););););););););););)[up][up][up][up][up][up]:):):)
 
Well ben i replace the TPS just bcuz the bike threw a code 11 and i figured i'd shoot from the hip instead of actually diagnosing the problem. I later tested my old TPS with an ohm meter and found no problems with it. The reason i concluded my ECM was bad was from running the diagnostics described in the service manual. I had an intermitent light and found no faults in the wiring to and from the TPS. so the recomended next step according to the manual was "replace ECM" so i did. and ever since, no probs. I can only assume the ECM was bad, i have considered calling or e-mailing ebr to see if theres ne way they can check out my old one. Get urself a service manual, it has a section for each trouble code with diagnostics to follow to remedy it.

So b4 doing a TPS reset or changing it, i would do the simplest of tests, plug ur bike into ECMspy, with it in live runtime u can see where the TPS reads in realtime by actuating the throttle. Slowly rotate the throttle open and back closed and watch the reading on ECMspy for spikes or blips in the signal, if the voltage jusmps around wildly in the reading then u prolly have a bad TPS. U can also watch the TPS voltage reading on ECMspy while jiggling the wiring to the TPS and the harness it comes from and if u see ne blips in the signal u might have a short in the wiring. i did all this in my dark cold garage in october last year so u can do it :D[up]
 
Did you have any other symptoms at the time?
Click to expand...

symptoms @ the time of epic fail after TPS replace were bucking stalling and flashin CEL. Would idle just fine and run under wide open throttle, otherwise it jumped and bucked like a friggin bronco
 
Sounds exactly the same as me.

Well I could have purchased a second bike with what I've put out to get this bike going. That's a story for another day...

Where are you?

Ben
 
OK,

So i charged her up, plugged in ECM spy; reset the TPS, ran diagnostics on the fan, fuel pump, injectors and tachometer.

She runs, barely. It sounds a s though the cylinders are firing nearly the same time instead of in turn. As if some form of timing adjustment was needed? The sound is cracking and Ihave her at 1500rpm as it sounds like the only thing keeping her running is the last firing....I'm sorry, It's the best verbal description i can make.

Drove around the block and it felt like a struggle to get her to move. Putting her in second was scary enough to make me go straight home.

Ben
 
I also read that after this kind or reset, i should run my bike for ten minutes at 3000-3500 rpm to help my bike re-learn itself. Does this apply to a TPS reset or only a more complicated mapping reset that I'm just starring to research how to do. A little overwhelming so far, but once i make my way through ECM spy manual a little more is should be ready to muck around.

AS long as i back up my current settings is should be safe to tweak around a little, carefully? My cable came with the stock and race settings map spreadsheets just in case.

When i put my new plugs in i bought NGK and adjusted the spacing for 1.02mm (0.040)SAE as it stated they are supposed to be on the box.

How does opening and closing the gaps a bit affect the outcome?
Ben
[confused]
 
Good News:

I replaced the TPS and reset again using ECM spy.

Immediately the bike sounded smoother and more as normal. I took it for a 45 min ride last night as it was cold outside and i wanted to heat her up and see. Drove pretty damn good, but nearing home, while taking an off ramp, I felt a small bit of the "bucking" just barely, but reminiscent of how this all started. At first i thought i was hyper-sensitive to the issue, but I'm quite sure it was that. Since changing the TPS and not just resetting it mad this change, I'm hoping we can rule at least that part out.

BTW, just in case, does anybody have an ECM to part out to me? (03 XB9R)

At least she runs, for now.

I'm going to learn more about ECM spy and how to diagnose stuff with it. I may change my storage arrangements if i can so i may have access to work on my bike during the winter.

Thanks again for all your help, and suggestions. You are still welcome to, and please do, to throw out ideas to help me tinker more.

BEN
:):):D:D;)[up][up][up]
 
NO light.

I'm wondering if it could be:

1. An intermittent tapping of an exposed wire.
or
2. The rubber intake can wiggle a bit and i wonder if it's leaking extra air into the manifold.
3. The ever popular ECM answer. :(
or
3. a fuel setting in the map ?

4. Something else ...lol

BEN
 
Yeah. I'm going after the two mentioned int he manual and in the earlier post.
The we'll see.

The wiring is very dry looking and there are of course wear marks in certain places. I don't want to use tape to cover those spots. What is safe to wrap a cable with that will not unravel or break down due to heat? If a part of a harness is worn from, say, rubbing on the frame, I cant use heat shrink cause there's no way to get it on...

or have i missed something... lol

I can go to the HW store in a few hours for just about anything. And i need a few things anyways. I can spend today working on this.

ben
 
i'd test for ur short with ur multi-meter. Go ahead and pull the wires to the TPS outa the armor and untape them check them over really well. if u happen to find a broken, worn through, or melted part cut it out and replace it. If u have to replace ne just use the "crimp and seal" connectors, the ones that are like a a regular butt connector but have the ends u heat up like heat shrink and then put heat shrink over the whole repair too.

I always like to remove areas of wire that the caseing has been worn bcuz u dont know how much moisture has gotten in there and it could cause corrosion down the road causing another failure.
 
If it all tests good and u cant find ne visable damage to the wiring, i guess u can throw an ECM on it, but with no CEL that doesnt seem like the culprit. These kinda of problems are the worst especially at the end of riding season, bcuz u just want to get it fixed with enuff time to test it b4 winter so u dont have to sit and wonder if its gonna run in the spring.
 

Similar threads

K
2003 Buell XB9R codes 13, 14, 15, and 16
Replies
2
Views
3K
Barrett
Barrett
X
2009 XB12Ss Overheating
Replies
9
Views
12K
Kurlon
Kurlon
U
XB9R Crank No Start
Replies
3
Views
3K
Unknowned
U
B
2001 Buell Blast - starts and idles fine BUT sputters/backfires/dies when on throttle
Replies
4
Views
11K
DLiss
D
R
07 XB12S Fuel Pump/Cam Timing Sensor Recap
Replies
0
Views
1K
RidetheLightning
R

Latest posts

Back
Top