Troubleshooting advice: Rough running XB

[Mr.Buell Man]

Hello Buell XB people!

To make a long story short, I've just picked up a 2006 XB12X Uly that's been sitting for around a year and half. Got it running with a new battery, and on the way home could not help but notice how horribly rough it ran.

Throttle response was all over the place, it sputters and surges big time. The check engine light was on all the way home, and although it didn't cut out while idling, the RPMs would tend to flutter and drop.

Anyway, I'm really just looking for some basic advice on what to check, and would also welcome any thoughts as to how I can properly diagnose the trouble I'm having. I'm really new to Buell, and would be really grateful for any guidance.

Thanks!

 

[Cooter]

With no info to go on, strangers on the internet will cost you money, time, and frustration. They can only be guesses and should be treated as such.

IMO step one: RTFM

Buellmods.com

Diagnostic chart is in the back:eagerness:

 

[Barrett]

Sir: your Ulysses running condition is actually quite typical for these abandoned orphans. and usually the result of 1 or more of the following situations:
1-failing fuel pump/loss of pressure hastened by extended lack of usage
2-fouled spark plugs
3-failing grounds resulting from corrosion/loose attachments
4-weak/failing battery with loose/corroded cable connections
5-vermin who have either eaten thru wiring insulation....or nested up under the airbox assembly...or both

as shaughn mentioned, download a free service manual @ buellmods....do some basic trouble-shooting on your own...and retrieve your historical fault codes. those are the key to the rough-running condition and why your CEL is active.
and if you're in southern PA area, bring it by and i'll run the diagnostics for you on shop computer, free of charge.

 

[34nineteen]

OK, so unless you left out a bunch of details...

1. You are running the bike on year and a half old gas (aka varnish and gum). Drain/flush/refill the tank with fresh gas.

2. Since you ran the bike on old gas, you probably have varnish and gum inside the fuel filter and likely the fuel pump and injectors. The filter is cheap, less than $10. You will want to do a pressure test on the fuel pump to make sure adequate pressure is being supplied to the injectors and the injectors are not clogged or leaking. Do not just run some fuel system cleaner through it, as all it will do is flush all those contaminants to the injectors, and likely clog them if they arent already. If you have a weak fuel pump or just want to replace a 15+ year old pump that sat in old gas for a year and half, contact user "lunatic_fringe" for a replacement. Failing that, reach out to resident covered bridge decorator, and big game hunter "Barrett" for a QUALITY fuel pump kit. You can save a few bucks buying one from Amazon, but do you really want to do this twice?

3. You need to do an oil change and filter change. Just because the bike has been sitting for a year and a half, who knows how old the oil and filter is. Oil breaks down and old oil may have broken down and now you have sludge and acids circulated around your motor. Drain the oil, change the filter. Flush the system with fresh oil and replace the filter and refill with fresh oil.

3a. Don't forget to drain and refill the primary oil. I'd recommend pulling the cover off and flushing all the gunk out of the bottom of the case, as it can be circulated through your transmission. Just refill with HD Formula +. Once you have everything figured out and can insure it is working correctly, you can use LUCUS SYNTHETIC GEAR OIL in your primary or whatever snake oil your heart desires.

4. You need to figure out what is going on with the check engine light. There is a procedure to perform in the service book, that only requires a small piece of wire. The most the most challenging part is downloading and reading the manual. Or you can purchase a Buelltooth module from Revision Moto and download ECMDroid on an Android device. Or take up resident Buell whisperer Barretts kind offer to scan for codes for you. Figuring out and resolving the issues causing these codes is another immediate and mandatory task.

5. You want to check the date codes on the tires. Most recommend replacing the tires after about 5 years. All it takes is one blowout and all the work above could be for nothing, along with the last XX years of your life.

6. Like Kwai Chang Caine aka Barrett recommended, replace the spark plugs and wires. They are likely original and pushing 15 years old.

7. Change and flush the brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture out of the air. The moisture will damage internal brake components, and can boil when the bike is pushed hard or the wrong brake levers are installed on the bike. Unless you are into having your lever go suddenly to the bar when you need the brakes the most, spend the $10 and replace the fluid.

8. I always take my new bikes to the coin op car wash with a bottle of degreaser and a scrub brush. This will help alert you to any leaks or other areas that require attention.

 

[Pushr0d]

As mentioned above - it could have a bunch of liquid formerly known as gas in the tank. It may have 'soured', or at least lost the octane rating.

Down here on the Redneck Riviera the alcohol-contaminated gasoline starts to break down in less than a month.

Fresh (Premium) fuel, with a healthy dose of B-12 Chemtool Fuel Injector cleaner or Seafoam might make a big difference.

 

[Outlaw]

Sea Foam for the win

 

[Mr.Buell Man]

Hey gang,

Just wanted to say thank you, especially to Barrett, Cooter, and 34nineteen for your suggestions and input. That should give me plenty to chew on for the next couple of weeks while I try to give my Uly some much needed TLC.

I'll try to post progress when I can.

 

[Cooter]

Awesome. Do a little checking and post back here what you find. As you can see, theres some smart and helpful people here to guide you once you start:eagerness:

 

[Mr.Buell Man]

UPDATE:

So, in my big old box of spare parts I found the USB cable needed to interface with my ECU! The problem, is that upon booting ECMSpy I get an prompt asking if I have a host FTDI drivers installed. I apparently didn't, so I downloaded the appropriate drivers (For XP) and just don't know how to install them. Anyone else had this issue?

Thanks!

 

[Cooter]

If you are going to attack the ECM as the culprit, may I suggest the FREE download of ECMDroid (GooglePlay store). It uses a wireless bluetooth connection to your android device so its way easy (no driver BS). It is also a very simple program to use for diagnosis, datalogging, and swapping Fuel maps.

I use the bluetooth dongle I got from Buelltooth.com (now rev-mo.com) and I like it.

 

[Mr.Buell Man]

If you are going to attack the ECM as the culprit, may I suggest the FREE download of ECMDroid (GooglePlay store). It uses a wireless bluetooth connection to your android device so its way easy (no driver BS). It is also a very simple program to use for diagnosis, datalogging, and swapping Fuel maps.

I use the bluetooth dongle I got from Buelltooth.com (now rev-mo.com) and I like it.

Okay, perhaps I'll just bite the bullet and snag one. Just out of curiosity, you wouldn't happen to know of any other desktop applications I could try in the meantime, would you?

 

[BuellyBagger]

UPDATE:

So, in my big old box of spare parts I found the USB cable needed to interface with my ECU! The problem, is that upon booting ECMSpy I get an prompt asking if I have a host FTDI drivers installed. I apparently didn't, so I downloaded the appropriate drivers (For XP) and just don't know how to install them. Anyone else had this issue?

Thanks!

I had a hell of a time getting the drivers installed on my current laptop. I ended up downloading and installing basically every possible driver i could find until it worked! If i remember right this https://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm is where i got the download.

they do have install guides too https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Do...stallation_Guide_for_WindowsXP(FT_000093).pdf

 

[Mr.Buell Man]

I had a hell of a time getting the drivers installed on my current laptop. I ended up downloading and installing basically every possible driver i could find until it worked! If i remember right this https://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm is where i got the download.

they do have install guides too https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Do...stallation_Guide_for_WindowsXP(FT_000093).pdf

Word, I did the same thing. But no luck as of yet, I'm still getting the installation prompt...even after virtualizing a copy of Windows 7 and getting the executable version of the driver installer. What a pain!

Thanks for your reply, man.

 

[Mr.Buell Man]

UPDATE:

Was able to access my ECU with ECMspy today, and found two historical trouble codes stored which were for the throttle being stuck open and closed. No other codes listed at present, which is pretty cool.

Seafoam also didn't work. Still experiencing some pretty bad lean surging, and my fuel pump is loudly whining. After asking around, running tests, and doing some more research, the consensus is that my pump is bad. I will buy a replacement. Theoretically, that should be all it takes to breathe life back into my Uly. Keep those fingers crossed!

Items left to accomplish before riding are now:

1. Buy a new pump.
2. Install the pump.
3. Change my brake fluid.
4. Change my primary oil.
5. Do a TPS reset.
6.???
7. Profit

 

[Cooter]

I don't want to ruffle any long held beliefs, but FYI.



Check every bit of that pump assembly, wire chafing can be an issue, as well as the sock or filter just being clogged, or the fuel hose with pinhole leaks. A lot more than just swapping the pump motor. PM Barrett on here for quality re-build kits or complete assemblies:up:

 

[34nineteen]

5. Do a TPS reset.
6.???
7. Profit

 

[Mr.Buell Man]

I don't want to ruffle any long held beliefs, but FYI.



Check every bit of that pump assembly, wire chafing can be an issue, as well as the sock or filter just being clogged, or the fuel hose with pinhole leaks. A lot more than just swapping the pump motor. PM Barrett on here for quality re-build kits or complete assemblies:up:

Here here, Fort-Nine speaks and I will listen! K100 next time for sure (if anything), oxidation is no bueno...

I've already reached out to Mr.Barrett, who's a solid guy. I'm looking to get a rebuild kit as early as next week! I'll also make sure to inspect the wiring, filters, and hoses when I pull it apart. It'd be nice if some of the components are salvageable, I wouldn't mind having some extra parts on hand just in case.

 

[BuellyBagger]

I watched that f9 video awhile back, love his stuff. I actually use "marine" stabil in everything, supposed to be even better at rooting out moisture and preventing damage from ethanol. I'm pretty sure it's just slightly more concentrated stabil, but I've had good luck just the same.

You could add cleaning your throttle body to your list. I always try and do my best to wipe it out really well on every bike I buy and then set the tps. Getting rid of any gummy crud in there tends to prevent a faulty TPS reset.

 

[Mr.Buell Man]

Hey gang,

My fuel pump rebuild kit arrives here tomorrow! In anticipation for the job I'm wondering if any can provide some advice on how I could MacGyver a way to get my bike up in the air enough to drop the swing arm down to access the fuel pump. I don't have a jack stand or anything similar. I have straps...and odd bits of 2x4s...

Any thoughts?

 

[Endopotential]

You could find a tall A-frame ladder and straddle it over the bike. Use that to lift up the tail.
Same idea if you have sturdy rafters in the garage, else a balcony.

Or you can also lift the bike up from the muffler, but gotta make sure it's well braced so it doesn't tip over.