Ultima Ignition How-To

[jetlee]

Thought I would start my ignition thread.

The Hi-4 idea has been scrapped.

I've sorted through a lot of different single-fire options and settled on this for the simple reason of: COST

Everyone (google search) seems to agree that this is a clone of the Dyna 2000i module from Dynatek. Seeing as I'm getting the module, a single fire coil, plug wires, timing cup, and some other miscellaneous odds and ends for $157 shipped, I have to try it out.

It *should* be similar wiring to the Hi-4, if not exactly save for the different color wires. It can run with or without VOES (I'll be without for the time being). It has race mode, adjustable rev limit (500rpm increments without software, 50rpm increments with), dead strokes, and adjustable advance curves. Everything can be finely tuned with the software and cable either from Ultima or Dynatek. People have programmed the Ultima using the Dynatek software, and visa versa...which furthers the theory it's a clone.

Seeing as I made all my bad mistakes with the Hi-4, this should be a pretty quick swap-in. It will go in with the new cams and springs as soon as it gets to my house. Cams and springs are waiting (for a spring compressor, lol).

This is what I got: p/n 53-660

This is where I got it

Best thing to do for indexing the timing cup (if needed, check it first): Flatten the notch. Make sure your engine is at TDC. Put the timing cup on the cam and bolt it tight. Temporarily install your nosecone module and rotate it back and forth. Remove the module and adjust the timing cup. Keep going back and forth until your static timing is correct. Then mark your cup for the notch and punch it. I used a fat flathead and just hit it with a hammer right there on the bike. I recommend using a different cam so you're not smacking your journals. The end result is the notch being indexed 115 degrees counterclockwise from stock.

*Notice in the first link, the software says "2Ki-P", that's the Dynatek software. Have to buy seperately, but Jireh has it for $87.95, p/n 53-646

 

[jetlee]

I can't edit the above post anymore, that ad banner on the right is overlapping the "Edit" button.

1. Remove seat, gas tank and carburetor (carb for easier access for wiring).
2. Remove spark plug and timing window cover. Set engine to TDC.
3. Remove stock ignition module and timing rotor.
4. Feed Ultima wires through cam cover.
5. Connect white wire from Ultima to white (w/ black stripe) wire on stock wiring.
6. Connect white wire from Ultima to +12v on coil (center post).
7. Connect blue wire from Ultima to coil signal to be used.
8. Connect pink wire from Ultima to coil signal that is not used.
9. Mount ignition coil.
10. Using delivered twin timing cup, flatten out the indexing notch.
11. Mount cup with flat notch, then module, adjust timing. Keep going back and forth until your timing is perfect. Only then, make the new notch in your timing cup.
12. Mount timing rotor.
13. Mount Ultima Ignition Module. Set timing according to: Video Link - Unit will sit almost perfectly sideways.
14. Dip switch settings are below. Mine are set as OFF/OFF/OFF/ON/ON/ON
15. Install sparkplug and connect plug wire to terminal corresponding to the Ultima blue wire.
16. Take 2nd spark plug wire, remove end boot, smash metal, bolt to a good ground. Connect to terminal corresponding with Ultima pink wire. (You have to ground the unused signal or you will fry your ignition module/coil)
17. Install carburetor, tank and seat.
18. Fire it up!

Link to Ultima instructions

If you have no VOES hooked up, you will be using the WOT curve at idle. This idles very rough and can be hard to start. I'm building a module that uses the TPS to drive a relay to create an adjustable VOES signal.

As far as I know, you have no more safeties (bas/kickstand/neutral). The safeties work by providing a ground to the stock ignition module. This module grounds itself through the cover/case, hence no safeties. (except clutch safety as it's on the starter circuit, not the running circuit)

Dip Switch settings
1 - VOES
OFF - Normal (with or w/o VOES)
ON - Retard mode (for use with nitrous or forced induction)

2/3 - Advance Curves (no voes input)
OFF/OFF - Curve 1 - 34º max at 2500 rpm
ON/OFF - Curve 2 - 32º max at 2700 rpm
OFF/ON - Curve 3 - 29º max at 2800 rpm
ON/ON - Curve 4 - 26º max at 3000 rpm

4/5 - Rev Limit
OFF/OFF - 5500 rpm
ON/OFF - 6000 rpm
OFF/ON - 6500 rpm
ON/ON - 7000 rpm

6 - Firing Mode
OFF - Dual Fire (fire both spark plug wires every time (no))
ON - Single Fire (alternate spark between front and rear cylinders(yes))

-Update-
I've built several different custom timing maps. A couple based on XB maps, a few based on SE maps, some just for shi-grins. Just ask for them.

 

[kiltedrunner]

I can't edit the above post anymore, that ad banner on the right is overlapping the "Edit" button.

1. Remove seat, gas tank and carburetor (carb for easier access for wiring).
2. Remove spark plug and timing window cover. Set engine to TDC.
3. Remove stock ignition module and timing rotor.
4. Feed Ultima wires through cam cover.
5. Connect white wire from Ultima to white (w/ black stripe) wire on stock wiring.
6. Connect white wire from Ultima to +12v on coil (center post).
7. Connect blue wire from Ultima to coil signal to be used.
8. Connect pink wire from Ultima to coil signal that is not used.
9. Mount ignition coil.
10. Using delivered twin timing cup, flatten out the indexing notch.
11. Mount cup with flat notch, then module, adjust timing. Keep going back and forth until your timing is perfect. Only then, make the new notch in your timing cup.
12. Mount timing rotor.
13. Mount Ultima Ignition Module. Set timing according to: Video Link - Unit will sit almost perfectly sideways.
14. Dip switch settings are below. Mine are set as OFF/OFF/OFF/ON/ON/ON
15. Install sparkplug and connect plug wire to terminal corresponding to the Ultima blue wire.
16. Take 2nd spark plug wire, remove end boot, smash metal, bolt to a good ground. Connect to terminal corresponding with Ultima pink wire. (You have to ground the unused signal or you will fry your ignition module/coil)
17. Install carburetor, tank and seat.
18. Fire it up!

Link to Ultima instructions

If you have no VOES hooked up, you will be using the WOT curve at idle. This idles very rough and can be hard to start. I'm building a module that uses the TPS to drive a relay to create an adjustable VOES signal.

As far as I know, you have no more safeties (bas/kickstand/neutral). The safeties work by providing a ground to the stock ignition module. This module grounds itself through the cover/case, hence no safeties. (except clutch safety as it's on the starter circuit, not the running circuit)

Dip Switch settings
1 - VOES
OFF - Normal (with or w/o VOES)
ON - Retard mode (for use with nitrous or forced induction)

2/3 - Advance Curves (no voes input)
OFF/OFF - Curve 1 - 34º max at 2500 rpm
ON/OFF - Curve 2 - 32º max at 2700 rpm
OFF/ON - Curve 3 - 29º max at 2800 rpm
ON/ON - Curve 4 - 26º max at 3000 rpm

4/5 - Rev Limit
OFF/OFF - 5500 rpm
ON/OFF - 6000 rpm
OFF/ON - 6500 rpm
ON/ON - 7000 rpm

6 - Firing Mode
OFF - Dual Fire (fire both spark plug wires every time (no))
ON - Single Fire (alternate spark between front and rear cylinders(yes))

-Update-
I've built several different custom timing maps. A couple based on XB maps, a few based on SE maps, some just for shi-grins. Just ask for them.

I don't know if you check this forum anymore, but I'm curious if you managed to get this working properly?

I have a buell that I converted to a carburetor and I installed a Sportster timing cup and a Dynatech 2001 ignition. I did exactly what you did with the timing cup to make it fire on cylinder 1 at TDC, but it seems to idle so rough and i swear that the rear cylinder is firing before top dead centre.


any thoughts?

 

[jetlee]

I had it working fine, then I converted to EFI.