Uly to Italy, Austria Alps September 2021

[dolomoto]

Just about every year, I make time for a 5-10 day moto trip. Last year, I was fortunate enough to have a friend from the US visiting and we hatched a plan to get him to see some Alpine roads: Passo Stelvio (Italy) and Grossglockner HochAlpenstrasse (Austria). Along the way, we picked up our Italian friend Gianni and near the end, the wives joined us for a weekend at a castle.

I headed out on a fine September day.



I met up with my friend Michael and Gianni at Gianni's place in Riva del Garda. RdG is a nice town on the north end of Lake Garda. Michael was on a rented CB500. He and I had some conversations about the bike for him to rent. Michael is about 5'6" and I recommended a Royal Enfield Himalaya, a place near here rents them for around $60/day + mileage (around 25 cents per mile). Gianni talked Michael into the CB500, right from the start, the bike was too tall for Michael.



In the pic above, Michaels right foot is on his tip toe and the left foot can't touch the ground. Our first day route had us in the city of Bormio, right at the foot of Stelvio. Since we were meeting late morning, I recommended a low key route to our hotel with the option to ride Passo Stelvio after we checked in (it's about a 2h loop from the hotel to the top of Stelvio and back). Again, Gianni disagreed and had us on an extended route thru some minor passes with us arriving at Stelvio late afternoon.

The Alps are tough to ride. The traffic can be terrible in town and the scenery, road conditions and curvy roads all combine to redefine what is considered a long day of moto riding. I regularly go out for 8h of riding, stopping only for fuel and nature break and I rarely get more that 250 miles on the odometer. The Alps are tough.

We made some nice stops along the way.



We got onto Stelvio around 1700 after about 6 hours of riding. Michael was toast and we had Stelvio and it's 40-something switchbacks to negotiate. In this picture, Michael is about ready to give up and we've only done a few hours of Alpine riding!

 

[dolomoto]

I subscribe to the belief that we should all ride our own ride. We agreed to do that up Stelvio and just meet at the top. Gianni was initially riding sweep but did pass Michael on account of the great riding. Michael is a very experienced rider with many miles on the back roads of the Blue Ridge Mountains and rides at a spirited pace.

On one of the straights, I pulled over to admire the view and realized that I did not see Michael or Gianni behind me....so back down the road I went.



Stelvio switchbacks are some of the toughest in the Alps, not only are they around 180 degrees, the are frequently off camber with an elevation difference of 0-8' between the entrance and exit. In the above pic, Michael looked me right in the face and asked: "is this what it's like to ride in the Alps". Yup, I replied, we have a week of exactly this.

Michael asked me to call a tow truck for the bike and inquired about the possibility of a taxi back down the mountain. Note the elevation, already over 6000' and the top of Stelvio is around 9000'. the curves are numbered, I think number 47 is the last one...quite a ways to go.

:sorrow:

Michael had dropped the bike at 2mph mid corner. He had an ok entrance line but there was a car descending and between the elevation change, off camber, lack or road markings and general anxiety, he stopped and could not get a foot down. The little Honda went down but the only damage was the breakaway part at the end of the brake lever. We got him back on the bike and rode a bit more slowly to get him to the top of Stelvio.

Normally, most riders are awestruck at the top of Stelvio...Michael just wanted the day to be over.



Me? Not so much, I love Alpine riding.



We agreed to ride our own rides down the south ramp of Stelvio. Gianni and I are relatively evenly matched...sort of. He rides a 1200 Multistrada and regularly does track days on his Panigale...he's a fast rider and he's 66!



We waited for Michael at one of the tunnels and decided to stay together for the last few miles into Bormio.



We had a good night in Bormio, nice little ski town with lots of good food. My friend Joe met us at the hotel. As in the other trip threads I posted, Joe is in his early 80's. With Gianni and Michael in their 60's, I was the youngster of the group!

The next day, I got to pick the route and we started from Bormio and rode directly to one of my favorite passes, Passo Gavia.



The scenery is stunning.





We made our way west from Passo Gavia and into Switzerland.

 

[dolomoto]

At the turn off for St. Moritz, the four us decided to split up. Michael needed some rest and Gianni and Joe were up for more riding. So, Michael and I rode directly back to Bormio via a couple of minor passes whereas Joe and Gianni took the long way thru St. Moritz and around to ride Umbrail Pass and then the south Stelvio again south to Bormio.

Note: prior to the moto trip, Michael had just finished a week on a guided trek in the Swiss Alps so he was still a bit physically fatigued from that.

So, Michael and i turned north and east to Livigno, Italy. Livigno is unique in that there are no taxes which drives a fair amount of tax tourism. Gas is around $5/gallon without taxes (normally $8-10/gallon). There was good riding.





We all met back at the hotel in the evening, had a nice dinner and went straight to bed. The next day was a transit day to Austria, but first we had some good riding to get in.

 

[dolomoto]

The next day, Gianni departed for home while the three of us (still on great terms...more to follow on that) headed east and then north to Oberdrauburg, Austria.

First pass was another crack at Passo Gavia.



Then it was a few hours of highway slog. We took a rest break.



We hit a bit of traffic crossing into Austria; this stop was for a train and we filtered to the front. Note: Michael was not comfortable doing this but it's accepting in most of Europe that moto's filter to the front in traffic.



We hit some spots of traffic but arrived at the hotel around 6pm. After we checked in, we made our way to the patio. I've been to this Gasthof a few times, very moto friendly with secure parking in the barn converted to a garage. Room rates are around $50/day that also includes a fantastic breakfast and 3 course dinner. Nice.

https://gasthofpost.at/

We were lucky enough that the weekend we stayed there was also a weekend where a local folk music band was doing a concert. (click the photo below, follow the link to smugmug and play the video)



The band made a fine entrance (click link to view video).

[video]https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-zx6xjfR/0/fde6978a/1920/i-zx6xjfR-1920.mp4[/video]

The day couldn't get any better, could it?

 

[dolomoto]

I noticed two ladies walking thru the crowd with a keg...

was ist das?



They are selling a local schnapps to raise money for the band. I'm in!





We watched another set of music, had too much hefeweizen and turned into our rooms.

Next up: Grossglockner HochAlpenstrasse!

https://www.grossglockner.at/gg/en/index

 

[dolomoto]

This is one of the first views of the Grossglockner glacier (technically the Franz Joseph glacier).



The GG is toll road, it's about $30 for a day of riding...pure bliss. The peak is amazing.





I walked around the parking area and thought I heard an accordion...yup, some dude in Lederhosen was playing the accordion. Typical Austrian Alps. (follow the link below to smugmug to view the video)

[video]https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-db9qcv7/0/a37cba8f/1920/i-db9qcv7-1920.mp4[/video]

The last 100' of elevation to the highest point on the GG is the original paving stones. It can be a bit tricky as the road corkscrews around some tight turns. Michael said he would take a pass so Joe and I took in the view.



2571 meters is 8435'.

 

[dolomoto]

I won't say the GG is a racetrack because it's not. But, if you get some clear road nobody cares what you do as long as you stay in your lane and don't crash. With roads like this, it's tough not to cut loose...I usually make several runs on this section and try to get in with a fast group.



September in the Alps usually means the first snow has already fallen, makes for nice views.





Lunch: strudel and a hefeweizen with a nice view.





We made stop at the visitors center, nice place.





Once the fun meter was pegged, we made our way back the way we came. I stopped for these photo's of the town of Heilegenblut ("holy blood" in german).





Back at the hotel, it was dinner and a few beers before racking out for the night. The next day: the Dolomites!

 

[ztied]

Super nice, looks like it would be an awesome ride

 

[DamMechanic]

What a great ride report so far. I sure would like to be sitting on the side of the road listening to your Buell going up those passes.

 

[dolomoto]

yeah, no doubt. i have a drummer original exhaust. my friend Joe says it's very pleasing, even better than an air cooled Duc at WOT!