Episode 10: New friends and old friends
Motorcyclists are friends. We wave to each other, we hang out in the same places, we can have whole conversations and never get a name. Simply parking next to another motorcycle can be a conversation starter. It doesn't work like that driving a Prius. "So, uh how many MPG do you get?" isn't a conversation I'd prefer. Even the non-riding public sees motorcyclists as one group. So it's important to know that we are all "Ambassadors". Whether we like it or not. Taking a minute to hear a gas station story from a 'the wife made me sell mine when I had kids' guy, and hopefully he goes home and looks up Craigslist to re-ignite the passion he once had. I love waving to a small child who's enraptured by the rumble of a passing motorcycle. I like to think I am planting the seed for a life long addiction to a dangerous and expensive sport. You're welcome, kid
Now that navigation is a non-issue with our straight southerly PCH route, we are keenly aware of our surroundings. It's surprising just how much more you 'see' when you have to actually process it, instead of numbly waiting for Siri to tell you where to go. I'll leave it to much smarter people than I, to know what part of the brain shuts off when the nav unit turns on, but I do know I've recently been lost, just 25 miles from my own home, because of a dead cell phone. That's pathetic.
Rocks shaped like familiar faces, winding tree branches overhanging the road, little blind off-shoot roads to the coast, it all sets in the memory part of the brain now as we rocket down the highway, adding "anal" to the name of every RV we see. The "Anal Tornado" is todays big winner, while the Tillicum Campgrounds in Oregon gets an asterisk for not being an RV but having us laughing for miles. Damn, Oregon has a such a beautiful coastline.
Our destination is Coos Bay tonight and another bunk-a-biker host so we're keeping the speed up, but first a short stop in Yachats. It's a happy little artist town that is thankfully stopped in time, and I'm hoping to re-connect with a couple I met there a few years back. At that time it was bad timing for me, late, wet, dark, cold, and a holiday weekend with no vacancies anywhere. After overhearing my unsuccessful conversation with the restaurant/hotel host, Kevin and McKenna approached me. They were having an anniversary dinner that night and went out of their way to offer a room in their house to me, a total stranger! He was there working for the Forestry Service and she was doing psychiatric care for children. Such a wonderful couple. Sadly they were out of town when we passed through this time, It would have been nice to have them meet the amazing Bubbles. Next time...
Helmet hair always looks good.
Back on the road again, throttling down the highway towards our lawn spot for the night hoping to get there before dark, and in time to see our new hosts, as well as meet up with an old riding buddy. Last time I had seen Johnny, we were chasing hot springs, the solar eclipse, and he was getting pulled over be the local Constable (Ambassadors, right Johnny?).
Once arriving in Coos Bay, Bubbles and I follow the directions to our hosts house down the long winding gravel driveway, far off the little road that brought up here, turn left at the big rock, and Johnny is already waiting for us. The dogs happily charge out of the house so we get to meet them first (as it should be), then our hosts Joanie and Gary. We learn Gary just got back riding from Sturgis so de rigueur, we all start the tour in their garage. He is a retired teacher and it's easy to see he has devoted his life to having fun and helping others. They have a giant garage full of cool bikes, a Tiger 800 that Bubbles got to throw her leg over to check if it fits her length challenged in-seam (it does, but barely), projects everywhere, toys for the nearby sand dunes, and he has non-stop energy as we wind our way around their gorgeous property. He and Joanie have 6 kids they foster and we can tell she's the glue holding all this fun together. Smart and easy going she offers all us travelers bedrooms instead of our tents on the lawn and won't take no for an answer. All of us spent a late evening together in the gazebo sitting by a big fire swapping stories of trips, life lessons, and listening to inspiring stories before wandering to bed and settling in for a very deep sleep.
The best alarm clock is one that smells like coffee and bacon
Gary and Joanie are already up as some of their kids are dropping by with their own kids in tow and not one of them is surprised to find three strangers in the house. Joanie has a deft hand as making a delicious breakfast for 2-20 people at a moments notice. We're positive she got those skills from lots practice in this very welcoming home. Gary offers us a trip to the Oregon sand dunes on his three and four wheelers too! He wasn't even planning on going, and thought he'd just drop everything and go to show us a good time. There's generosity and hospitality, and then theres this amazing family. Next level. As much as Bubbles and I love the sand, very regrettably we have to decline. We have a birthday camping reservations for Bubbles in Big Sur in 3 days. It's the rest of Oregon and half the state of California away and already feeling a little rushed.
You just HAVE to stop, right?
As good a rider as she is, there are still experiences Bubbles hasn't come across yet, but she's already navigated heavy winds, wet roads, and the steep gravel driveway like a pro and really has the level head needed to stay safe. This level head is what saves her bacon tomorrow. And the next day.
We three travellers departed at the same time and it took about 3 turns for Johnny to lose us, disappearing around the tight corners on his way back to the 101. That's ok we'll be sure to hook up later, watch out for those Constables buddy! After another quick re-stock of water and snacks into our tiny saddlebags we will be deep somewhere in the Redwoods tonight, but not after a few detours to the serene sand dunes that stretch from under the pines to the Pacific ocean. To Bandon, then Port Orford where the 101 hugs the coast, past Gold Beach and Brookings, we hardly noticed leaving Southern Oregon and entering Northern Cali and kept motoring through Crecent city. This is really where the Redwoods start, and there is a secret/not secret road through the Jedediah Smith State park that will have any spectator agog. I promised my girl I would take her one day, but it's all gravel and we need to save something for the next trip. Besides, the best is yet to come where highway "The 1" separates from the 101 and is one of the all-time stellar roadways. There are some truly bucket list viewpoints that can easily be missed if you're in even the slightest hurry. Take the time. Even if re-incarnation is your thing, why not make this life the best life you can. Not even the news of the big fires to the south of us, deters our direction in the least.