VR recommendation?

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I believe I'm running an FHA020. Bought it used off eBay. Bought the harness from Jack, and he helped with a couple of questions I had.
 
Thanks for the info. Anybody ever tried the twinmotorcycle VR? http://https://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp?mc=1&aid=23244&cid=0&s=voltage%20regulator&a=
Seems pretty complete, not sure of the exchange rate, shipping charges, etc....
Also notice that many VR's have 5 wires, where as the 2009 single phase has only 4. Does one of the stator wires out of the VR get sealed off or tied to one of the other stator leads?
I purchased that from Twins back in August and it was $169 shipped to the US.
It didn’t come with that VR that is pictured but with one like this: https://www.denniskirk.com/v-factor...r-rectifier-74711-08.p2012538.prd/2012538.sku


A crafty person could make make there own mount and lengthen the wires on the DennisKirk one. They have the same plugs as your old one.
 
Thank You DamMechanic. VR at the link is sold out as well as many others. Probably going to buy the Roadstercycle DIY kit, at least I know what brand and model it is. Thanks again.
 
Just purchased the DIY Kit from Roadster cycle with the FH020AA R/R. Since it is recommended to have it directly connected to the battery, has anybody relocated one? possibly inside the airbox?
The template shows it to be 3.5 X 4.124(~.5 for connectors) X 1.25. Possibly fit where the IEV Actuator is located?
 
TBone, I just made an adapter plate so the new one would mount to the old location. It works fine, and gets all sorts of cooling air.
 
Thanks TheWood, very cool. Wonder what happens if you bottom out, especially a Uly? He says in the video the mounting bolts go through metal, does the shell need to be grounded? I asked Jack that question.

Thanks Pushr0d. Roadstercycles recommends using all new wires to the battery with a fuse, so thinking about relocating as well.
 
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Finally installed the new R/R, relocated to the left side scoop.View attachment 15915

If you're going to do that, you're going to want to reorient the R/R so the air can flow over all of the fins, not just get blocked by the first one. Also, reorienting it should create less of a blockage of air through the scoop to the rear cylinder.

I would just mount it in the stock location. But if you insist on doing this, I'd highly recommend getting the RH scoop.
 
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Yes I have a RH Scoop. The R/R is only 1.5" thick, with over 3/4" risers underneath it. The pic doesn't show it, but there is plenty of air space above it as well.
Here is a better pic.20211110_125917[1].jpg
 

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Yes I have a RH Scoop. The R/R is only 1.5" thick, with over 3/4" risers underneath it. The pic doesn't show it, but there is plenty of air space above it as well.
Here is a better pic.View attachment 15917


Regardless of your decision to mount it there, you chose to mount it in a position that blocks the most air flow to the engine, and provides the least amount of airflow over the heatsink. Assuming that side is 1-1/2" tall, mounting it the other way would only present 3/4" to block the air flow, and allow air to flow through the entire heat sink, instead of just the face of the outer fin.

You do you, though.
 
34nineteen thanks for the input. Air flow is not a problem for the R/R or the rear cylinder. Fan actually runs a lot less.
Barrett this Shindengen V/R/R in the last 2 days I have ran it has been excellent thus far performance wise, hopefully the rest will follow. I am tired of buying V/R/R that does not perform well, does not last, and cooks your stator, as well changing headlight bulbs continuously.
 
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The OE VR is a very dependable and solid state unit. Simply replacing it would solve your problem. You maybe thinking 1125 issues?

If you insist on blocking the engine cooling scoop and adding heat to its incoming air, you could rotate the VR 90* and allow the air to cool the whole heatsink instead of the only the leading fin?

Just a suggestion.
 
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The OE VR is a very dependable and solid state unit. Simply replacing it would solve your problem. You maybe thinking 1125 issues?

If you insist on blocking the engine cooling scoop and adding heat to its incoming air, you could rotate the VR 90* and allow the air to cool the whole heatsink instead of the only the leading fin?

Just a suggestion.

If its a GENUINE Shindengen FH020 R/R, its actually a pretty decent piece. There are a bunch of cheap knock-offs out there on eBay for cheap. I think that one was one of the preferred replacements on the 1125, aside from the monstrous CE-605. The CE-605 is really cool, but its really hard to find an effective mounting point for it on an 1125. My first 1125CR had the CE-605 and my last one had a FH020 with the drilled rotor. I think the FH020 has been superseded by the SH847, though.
 
Jack at roadstercycles I believe guarantees it is authentic. In my experience/opinion, which is about 3 days and 300 miles, an OE VR is now a sub-standard part.
 


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