Wont stop overheating! Did I install cams wrong?

[Cosworth]

Straight from hammer performance

On your initial start-up, run the engine no longer than 10 seconds. Use a clock with a second hand or a stop watch. Don't guess! Shut it off and allow it to cool completely to room temperature. A little bit of patience now will go a long way to providing you with a strong motor that lasts a long time.
For your second heat cycle, run the motor no longer than 20 seconds. Again, time it properly, don't guess. Allow it to cool completely.
Repeat these heat and cool cycles with run times of 30 and 40 seconds.
You're now ready for your first ride. Keep the rpm's down as much as possible and keep air flowing across the cylinders. Ride it no more than a mile, shut it down, and let it cool completely
For your second ride, treat it similarly gently. Keep your rpm's below 3500 and keep air moving across the cylinders. Ride it a couple miles and let it cool completely.
For the next 50 miles, do not exceed 3500rpm and avoid using full throttle. Vary your speeds, allowing the engine to pull and then decelerate gradually. This reversal on the rings, from pressure to vacuum, assists in the seating process.
For the next 500 miles, stay below 4000rpm, avoid using full throttle, and keep the heat down.
Once you're past the 500 mile break-in period, change your oil. During break-in, the rings have carved the cylinders into their shape and the shavings have been captured in the oil, so you want to change the oil to get that stuff out. Use any high quality 20W-50 oil formulated for air-cooled V-Twin engines.
Have your bike professionally dyno tuned. Proper tuning is critical to maximum power, long life, and good gas mileage. It makes no sense at all to spend thousands on motor work and then leave power on the table, and put it all at risk, because you didn't spend a couple hundred on a proper dyno tune.
You are now ready to enjoy the full power of your new engine kit!

 

[onelogue]

^^ BAM like we said, take it for a ride and quick doing unnecessary 10 min warm ups! Ride your bike and quit taking smoke breaks on a new motor that has bigger pistons and more surface area....

 

[WIGGLE2]

Engines also run warmer (much) during the breakin period...

^^ EXACTLY!!
Double check your ignition timing, then take it out and ride it. DON'T hammer on it....ride it! See how it acts.

 

[WIGGLE2]

Here's an idea...smoke your cigarette, start the bike, gear up, locate your testicles and ride the damn thing.

I just choked on my coffee!! THANKS!!

 

[Hobes]

Have you checked temp sensor to ensure it is reading in correctly? Voltage v temp get raw figures just to clarify output via manual.

 

[Negative]

In case you need it ...

 

[WIGGLE2]

I was expecting a pic with testicles!! Lol!!

 

[adjwoolley]

Temp sensor is brand new and reading good.

I didn't realize how hot these Buells ran. Only had time to put about 10 miles on it yesterday. Hopefully I can do more tonight. The reason I never took it out right after the rebuild is because it was smoking so much (turns out it was the new engine paint curing) but I automatically thought it was overheating.

I was unaware also that the initial break in would have the motor running alot warmer due to the rings wearing in. Another thing that may be contributing is the regular 20w-50 (not v-twin or motorcycle or synthetic for that matter) oil I'm running.

I had it going about 7 miles straight yesterday and the fan was on high while riding but it didn't hit skip spark mode or anything. The seat and right side were definitely pretty hot though.

I've ordered a RSS to assist in cooling because I read around that many new Buells ran on the hotter side for the first 4K-6K miles.

 

[Cosworth]

non motorcycle oil??.... just regular car motor oil?

 

[adjwoolley]

Hammer Performance = For break-in purposes, any low cost grade of 20W-50 oil will be fine. We actually use the Wal-Mart branded stuff that comes in gallon containers. After break-in (see below), change your oil and use your favorite brand of high quality 20W-50 motor oil, preferably something formulated for air-cooled V-Twins.


So that's exactly what I did... I got regular 20w-50 from Wal-Mart...

But he is selling a lot of kits for Sportsters... probably not many Buell customers so it may be a bigger problem on the hotter running Buell?

 

[Cosworth]

Huh interesting. Its in the procedure then ill be quiet

 

[WIGGLE2]

Another thing that may be contributing is the regular 20w-50 (not v-twin or motorcycle or synthetic for that matter) oil I'm running.

That "V-twin" marketing.....? Look at ANY oil thread on here....and there's a TON of them.....Amzoil, Valvolne VR-1....... You're fine for the short miles of break-in with what you have, BUT I would up that quality for long term use. That in itself is NOT your heat issue if you have one.

 

[adjwoolley]

UPDATE: Ran it around for a while with Mobile 1 V-Twin and it would still overheat and throw the engine light anywhere other than the highway.

I dropped the motor because I wanted to put my eyes back on the cams, blew out the fuel injectors, and moved 2 ground wires on the front of the bike to the frame and cleaned the connection up. Doesn't overheat anymore!! ( I think poor grounding on the bike was the main issue)

Only other thing I need now is a new muffler. I know for a fact that the dirt bike can on it is causing a choke point at the header dump because of the way the muffler connector was welded. I'll fix that next and it should run even cooler.

Thank you to the contributors in this thread that actually tried to help!