XB Front Rotor, any thoughts on it's condition?

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Danthehitman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2020
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108
Location
Milwaukee and Illinois
Hey guys,

I just received a rotor I purchased off eBay, it looks pretty good, in general, other than one side of the rotor has fairly decent gauges by the mount-points. Do you think this is ok to use or should I attempt to have it surfaced at a machine shop? I'm hoping it's a non-issue but I'm brand spankin' new when it comes to the ZTL business.

Just a little background, the XB I just purchased has some pulsation when braking so I was planning to swap-out the rotor and update the hardware w/ the new EBR kit.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Dan
 

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you should be aware of the following and keep in mind these XB's are notorious victims of "front lever pulsation"...one of the reasons i loathe the ZTL braking system.
1-replace the pads! either EBC HH or Lyndall Gold series. the stockers are garbage and promote lever pulsation.
2-i stock and sell new rotors...pads...calipers...master cylinders...all at a tick above dealer cost to board members. if you are dissatisfied with this ebay rotor simply take advantage of their free seller return policy...return for full refund. then contact me for a new one.
3-using your SM....refer to pages 89-92 inclusive for torque specs and rotor installation configuration. SM specifies torques...punch-mark correct location(must face outward)....brake pad manufacturer specifies pad bed-in procedure. follow those recommendations.
4-do NOT use any sort of anti-seize or lubricant on the rotor installation bolts. they must be reinstalled with blue loctite and torqued to spec in the correct sequence. ALL covered in the SM.
5-the rotor pressure springs MUST be pristine and squeaky clean as should be the spring holes in the rim. skipping this step will always result in lever pulsing.
 
Lunaticfringe, you the man! Thank you for all that, very helpful. I did notice on a thread that the torque spec's were updated from original (25-27) to 16-18ft lbs. Do you know if that's accurate?
 
Lunaticfringe, you the man! Thank you for all that, very helpful. I did notice on a thread that the torque spec's were updated from original (25-27) to 16-18ft lbs. Do you know if that's accurate?

i do know that it's caused alot of confusion...courtesy of EBR and the replacement "fixed rotor" hardware kit.
EBR recommended that torque spec for their replacement hardware kits.
simply do what i do and thoroughly clean the original rotor bolt threads....dry....apply blue loctite as mentioned...and torque to 25 ft lbs and you'll be fine.

NOTE: if you're capable of doing this...and it's tedious but quite simple...carefully check the "run-out" of your wheel on the right/rotor side....and the "run-out" of the rotor mounting blocks on the wheel. APPROXIMATE max run-out on the wheel is 0.030 inches.......APPROXIMATE max run-out on the rotor mounting blocks is 0.012 inches.
if either or both exceed max specs it will pulse the hell out the brake lever.
 
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i do know that it's caused alot of confusion...courtesy of EBR and the replacement "fixed rotor" hardware kit.
EBR recommended that torque spec for their replacement hardware kits.
simply do what i do and thoroughly clean the original rotor bolt threads....dry....apply blue loctite as mentioned...and torque to 25 ft lbs and you'll be fine.

NOTE: if you're capable of doing this...and it's tedious but quite simple...carefully check the "run-out" of your wheel on the right/rotor side....and the "run-out" of the rotor mounting blocks on the wheel. APPROXIMATE max run-out on the wheel is 0.030 inches.......APPROXIMATE max run-out on the rotor mounting blocks is 0.012 inches.
if either or both exceed max specs it will pulse the hell out the brake lever.


71181390_10219651156019810_4535492757430468608_n.jpg
 
FINALLY, took my recently purchased XB9S for a spin, yesterday. What a great bike! It's been many, many, years since I rode a Buell and I nearly forgot how much fun that low-end torque is...and how nimble a Buell is. I also forgot how aggressive the foot-peg position is as my last few bikes were cruisers (my wife made me do it!) Anyway, so much fun, looking forward to clean roads and another 10 degrees or so.

The only issue, as anticipated, is a LOT of pulsation through the front brake lever. I've never felt that on a motorcycle. The PO claimed he never noticed this and that it was the only motorcycle he's ever owned. I'm thinking maybe it crept up so slowly through the years he owned it that he became numb to it. It's absolutely terrible so this bikes not going anywhere until I do the swap-out. New EBR hardware kit on it's way!
 
Try scrubbing the rotor thats on the bike vigorously with an abrasive Scotch Brite pad, both sides.
 
You may want to inspect the "floating" hardware and make sure nothing is gummed up or stuck. I realize you are going to the EBR hardware, but you will probably want to make sure the rotor is not actually bent or warped.

If you find sticking hardware, free it up and the pulsation goes away, the rotor should be OK. However, it that doesn't resolve it, I doubt the EBR hardware will, and you will likely need a new rotor.
 
Thanks for the tips everyone! I'm looking forward to a good brake feel! I do have a decent, tested, rotor to accompany the hardware kit (if it ever arrives). The kit was shipped from CA to MA... now on the way back West to Milwaukee!
 
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