XB12R Exhaust Header Mounting Studs

[rndrkeagle]

My Beautiful Buell is out of commission... Help!

So one of the studs that holds the front header into the exhaust port on the front cylinder has sheared off! I am in the process of drilling it out to use an extractor but so far it doesn't seem to want to budge! I know that drilling all the way to the bottom can help loosen it up so it'll come out, but I don't know how far the bottom of the stud is and I don't want to drill into the aluminum cylinder head. Does anyone know how deep the threaded holes for these stud go into the head?

 

[rndrkeagle]

ok... new problem...

drilled about 3/4 inch into the stud, figured that should be far enough for it to loosen up, and broke the extractor off in the hole. I'm pretty sure that drilling through the hardened steel of that extractor is going to be impossible. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get this thing out?

I'm starting through the process of doing an engine rotate so I can pull the head off. Is this my best bet or does anyone have any suggestions on an easier way to get this stud out? My guess is that I'm going to have to drill the entire hole out larger and put a solid insert into it. ??

 

[Jornum1]

Oh I think you have made a mess now!
I had the same problem as you. I was told not to use the extractors, they dont work. I am not sure if it will still work, but your best bet is to buy a Jims tool. Its a special jig that fits over the good stud and exhaust port. Then it has a hole on the other side to allow you to drill the entire stud out straight. Then you just need to run a tap through to clean the threads. I did it,and it worked like a charm.
They are about $100 bucks, but well worth the money. I am not sure if you are too far gone now though. Post some pics and let us know what it looks like. Are you sure you drilled straight? Its almost impossible without the tool, or taking the head off and putting it on a mill.

 

[rndrkeagle]

I'm literally one step (the front isolator mount) from rotating the engine down and pulling the head off. It's pretty boogered up in there now. Once that extractor broke off, all my efforts to drill any more just walked off the extractor and had me drilling in the very thin amount of the stud that was left. I ended up with some of the drill bit cutting into the aluminum of the hole.

I'm going to pull the head off and take to a buddy's that has a drill press and see if we can get a drill to bore down through it straight. I think I'm pretty well down to 3 possible fixes.
1. If I can get the drill press to bore a hole one size larger than the stud, I'll put a solid threaded insert in and be done with it.
2. Take it to a machine shop and see if they can do anything with it.
3. replace the head.

hey... while I'm at it...

BPG...
can you help me with a couple part numbers and prices?

1. The stud (front exhaust header mounting stud)
2. the nuts (Front Exhaust header mounting nuts) - (one went with the sheared off stud, the other worked it's way off and that's how I found the problem to begin with)
3. Cylinder head assembly (I guess I should get it with valves already inserted since I don't really have the tools to do that)
4. Anything else you think (based on the above conversation) that I might need.

I appreciate the help.

 

[Jornum1]

I dont think getting another head will be necessary.
If you can get it drilled out straight you can put a helicoil in and it should be fine. I have heard about others doing that with no ill effects.
Sorry its gone this far, at least you will know for next time. Those studs are a real PITA to get out without the right tools.

 

[rndrkeagle]

ok... so I'm thinking machine shop is going to be my only chance of salvaging this head. Judging by the looks of the combustion chamber, I'm thinking they need to be cleaned up anyways... any thoughts?

hey BPG... R U MIA? Still need some PN's and prices if you don't mind.
Going to need:
. head gaskets (are these sold singly or in pairs?)
. Throttle Body > Head gaskets
. exhaust port gaskets
. Plugs (anyone have aftermarket recomendations here?)
. Rocker Cover gaskets and fiber seals (around bolts)
. Pushrod guide gaskets.
. Any other Gaskets you think I'll need.
. (do they have a full top end gaskets set/kit?)

 

[strmvt]

Plug get NGK DCPR9EIX

 

[cement]

just had the same happen with mine. the same bolt has sheared.how had/ easy is it to turn the engine to get the head of? any no any 'threads'i can follow with this please?

 

[GregoXB]

I have to do this job. What's the consensus as to what is the best way to remove the broken header stud? I can see that EZ out is clearly a no.

 

[Cooter]

The Jims tool. By far.

 

[GregoXB]

The Jims tool. By far.

http://www.jimsusa.com/pdf/instruction-sheets/1705-IS.pdf This one?

Any tips, tricks, pitfalls to watch out for? Any possibility of saving the original threads?

The stud is flush with the engine, is it worth attempting to weld a nut to it?

 

[Silverrider]

penetrating fluid , left handed drill bits.

 

[GregoXB]

with head on or off the motor?????????????

Its the front stud. I was hoping to remove the headers and attempt the repair with the head on. No bueno?

 

[GregoXB]

NOT being critical but from your prior posts i'm deducing you're not very mechanically inclined which typically means you have minimal tools. if that's the case have a "pro" do it or assist. what i do is:
1-buy the finest penetrant spray fluid you can find. spray.....let soak for an hour....spray again....soak....spray.
2-JIMS fixture tool a must as shaughn mentioned. stud is medium strength steel....threads aluminum. a recipe for disaster if you don't know what you're doing and lack patience.
3-center punch the stud....start with 1/8th drill and it MUST be extremely sharp. drill completely thru the stud till you barely touch aluminum.
4-increase hole size with each step-up in drill size till you reach appropriate size for the EZ-out you're using.
5-heat the head area around the stud. it's aluminum so don't get nuts. then and only then try and remove broken stud with EZ-out. patience and a TENDER TOUCH required.
if the stud remnant won't budge it must now be drilled out. properly done you won't harm the existing threads.
patience....common sense...JIMS tool all required. if you're lacking 1 or more ingredients have a pro do it.

Thank you Lunatic, I appreciate the tips. This is exactly what I was looking for. PaulPud is my go to guy for the big jobs. I won't be starting the job till this Saturday, so until then, I will be applying PB blaster on the regular.

 

[konarider94]

http://www.jimsusa.com/pdf/instruction-sheets/1705-IS.pdf This one?

Any tips, tricks, pitfalls to watch out for? Any possibility of saving the original threads?

The stud is flush with the engine, is it worth attempting to weld a nut to it?

With the Jims tool it is possible to save the original threads but not guaranteed. Dont start with anything smaller if you plan to use one. The tool is a guide and only works with the correct size drill bit. Otherwise it will likely follow any other pilot hole that will not be centered correctly. Only time i used one it was centered so perfect I drilled out the stud and was able to pull the threads from the stud out of the hole with pliers. The threads uncoiled like they were made out of a piece of wire. It couldnt have been any better if using a mill. My experience was a front stud with engine and head still in the bike.

Id be tempted to try welding a nut to the stud but you might have to smooth it out with a grinder or flap wheel if it doesnt go well. Then you could revert back to a Jims tool.

 

[user_deleted]

Thank you Lunatic, I appreciate the tips. This is exactly what I was looking for. PaulPud is my go to guy for the big jobs. I won't be starting the job till this Saturday, so until then, I will be applying PB blaster on the regular.

anytime greg. you know that. for a bit of clarity try what i've outlined if no access to jims' exhaust port tool. if you can borrow the tool then the procedure is different....what was mentioned above. paul's excellent and i'm sure he's done these before. happens frequently on XB's and older sportsters. if you were closer i'd just tell you to drop it off and i'd tackle it for you but sounds like you and paul have it covered. also greg when job is completed and you're remounting either stocker or hawkins or drummer muffler....you know...the ones in stock configuration and dimensions....carefully torque up the straps and CLOSELY CHECK the 2 bushings that attach front muffler mount to bottom of engine case. and on the muffler straps the FRONT STRAP threaded post MUST FACE THE LEFT SIDE OF BIKE...the REAR 2 STRAPS MUST FACE THE RIGHT SIDE OF BIKE.

 

[njloco]

PB blaster comes to mind, if that don't work I do still have some top secret stuff you could try.

 

[GregoXB]

Bolts from Drummer SS MIA

 

[Beebop]

If you're handy with a welder.
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showt...t-studs-I-have-my-weekend-work-cut-out-for-me

 

[GregoXB]

The other stud snapped off even after 3 days of PB blasting. PaulPud removed the heads and had a machinist drill them out. Took the guy 3 hours with tons of cursing. Replaced all the gaskets with cometic kit and cleaned out the combustion and intake chambers. Applied tons of loctite to the drummer ss front mounting bracket. Back in business.

Anyone have any advice on how to prevent the front header studs/bolts from getting so corroded again?