XB12ss Electrical Woes

[ken woods]

Looking for help with my 2008 lightning , just when i thought i had sorted out all my electrical issues , now it is idling too fast at 1500 rpm , but if you pull the clutch lever in ..... it drops back to normal 1000 rpm . What is happening please Possibly i should also mention that it now will not start unless i pull in the clutch lever , deffinately a new trick , even when it's still in nuetral

The bike has also been running brilliant for the last 1.5 years since i fitted a buell tooth and remapped the ECU . So with all the above now going on , i am not getting any fault code

 

[Barrett]

The 2008-2009-2010 XB's all have DDFI-3 electronics/EFI system. Does not function within the same parameters as earlier model year XB's. What you're describing is the result of a combination of failures from one or more of the following resulting in erratic idle speed particularly associated with clutch usage and gear selection.........as follows:

1-IAC controller failing or needs serviced including a thorough cleaning of the Pintel port. Possible stored FC #34 but not always

2-Clutch lever interactive safety switch failing or disconnected which causes high and erratic idle speed

3-Neutral safety switch failing or disconnected or failed connection which causes high and erratic idle speed

4-TPS manual reset via throttle grip and "ride to learn mode" as outlined in OM sometimes solves this

THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH AND CLUTCH LEVER INTERACTIVE SAFETY SWITCH synched on your 2008 and a failure with one or both causes your exact situation.

You're welcome.

 

[ken woods]

Thankyou sir for getting back to me . Everything you have mentioned makes sense , i just have to figure out how to find and test such

Cheers from sunny queensland , australia

 

[Kurlon]

Neutral switch is an easy one, put the bike into neutral, does the light on the dash come on? If it doesn't, remove the front pulley cover, snip the ziptie around the neutral switch wire, unplug it and then ground out the connector (bike side) with a paperclip/test lead/etc. Light come on now? Bad switch. Light doesn't come on, burned out bulb in the instrument cluster?

Clutch switch you can unplug and test with a multimeter in continuity mode.

 

[ken woods]

No issues with the neutral switch , light comes on when in neutral always .....i have just come in from the shed after pulling out the IAC and gave it a good clean ( very dirty )

Had to start bike by pulling in clutch lever which is something i have never had to do . To my mind , the fact that i have to pull in the clutch and it then starts tells me that switch is OK

 

[Barrett]

My pleasure. Confused by your "never had to do" statement.

IF TRANS IN NEUTRAL AND NEUTRAL INIDICATOR LIGHT LIT STARTER WILL CRANK WITH CLUTCH LEVER IN OR OUT

IF TRANS IN ANY GEAR OTHER THAN NEUTRAL STARTER WILL NOT CRANK UNLESS CLUTCH LEVER PULLED IN

The above is totally dependent upon both a fully functioning neutral switch and clutch lever interactive safety switch. Anything other than the above and you have a switch and/or wiring malfunction. Check both wires from clutch lever switch where they pass by the steering neck. Known chafing problem for them in that area.

 

[ken woods]

Barrett and Kurlon , ..... tomorrow i will do a point to point on the wiring with a diagram i have down loaded .

Something makes me think that the kill switch is involved as i discovered that by toggling that whilst another finger on the start button can get a start on the bike sometimes . Then yesterday i accidently pulled in the clutch lever whilst other finger on start button and whammo ....... instant start

Thanks for your input guys , this is one of lifes little mysteries , but i do hope to sort it out as i do enjoy being on it rather than working on it

Cheers

 

[ken woods]

Sorry but me again , can someone tell me what resistance i could expect across my neutral switch when in neutral position and also is it possible to remove the IAC controller , plug it into the loom plug and run/ test it that way just to be sure

As i am in australia , we do not cater for buell parts on every second corner , so before i go ordering parts overseas , i would like to make a better judgment . With the neutral switch unplugged at the moment , i have 110 ohms resistance across it with the bike in neutral and in gear ...... it goes open as would be expected

thanks in advance , ken

 

[Starman]

Correct me if i'm wrong, I believe the neutral switch provides the ground for the starter relay. If the neutral switch goes bad you get a dim or no neutral light and no start unless the clutch is pulled in.
It's the same switch that a lot of HD use. I would think you can find one locally. Sounds like you have a bad neutral switch.

 

[ken woods]

I really have no issues with the neutral light ( it operates as it should )

My issues are with the other matters stated above . HD in bundaberg have lost their top mechanic , this dealer is an hour from me , so i am trying to figure it out for myself

 

[motoguy]

Tagging in on this thread. 09 Firebolt. Won't crank, don't even hear a relay click when I try.

It's been in a front end collision so it has some damage. Key turns on, gauges work as normal, but no neutral light. I've grounded the neutral switch wiring at the pulley but I don't get a dash neutral light when I do. I've swapped the gauge bulbs around and it's not a bulb issue. Check engine light will come on shortly after the gauges cycle.

Switchgear doesn't seem to be an issue. Fuel pump cycles when I cycle the kill switch and more importantly I've swapped with a known good switch.

Initially I was getting the following codes:

36 - Cooling fan 1 (rear or right) short to ground
44 - BAS too high (bank angle sensor, which is missing)
21 - AMC stuck open. (exhaust valve, which has been disconnected / removed)

Using ECMDroid I disabled the bank angle sensor related functions and the 44 code went away. Disabled the exhaust valve functions and the 21 code went away. Just have the 36 code now, but it still won't crank, still no neutral light, and the CEL is still on.

Clutch switch and wiring seems intact visually but I haven't tested it with a meter yet. I'll do that next week when I'm off work (I see above there's a known chafing issue). I've got 4 other bikes I could swap with if needed, so we'll cross that bridge when I get there.

I'm adding to the list of issues I should be looking at (which I'm gathering from this thread).

 

[Barrett]

MOTOGUY-----NO START

Starter system receives its signal from the right side mounted starter switch which receives its power from the headlight circuit fuse and wiring. Start there.

 

[motoguy]

MOTOGUY-----NO START

Starter system receives its signal from the right side mounted starter switch which receives its power from the headlight circuit fuse and wiring. Start there.

Thank you! I'll check that wiring as well!

 

[Barrett]

Sorry but me again , can someone tell me what resistance i could expect across my neutral switch when in neutral position and also is it possible to remove the IAC controller , plug it into the loom plug and run/ test it that way just to be sure

As i am in australia , we do not cater for buell parts on every second corner , so before i go ordering parts overseas , i would like to make a better judgment . With the neutral switch unplugged at the moment , i have 110 ohms resistance across it with the bike in neutral and in gear ...... it goes open as would be expected

thanks in advance , ken

1-NO known test for IAC controller that is removed from the TB assembly.
2-All HD XB--XL---XR neutral switches have ZERO ohms resistance as new.


NEED TO CHECK:

Both throttle cables routed properly and NOT hanging up causing erratic idle

Emissions vacuum port plug has not fallen off vacuum canister plug on LEFT SIDE of throttle body

Throttle body intake assembly intake port seals are failing check for vacuum leak front and rear with engine running