XB12X 2006 ULY Charging issues, testing done, what next??

[Gingahippy]

What to do next??? I've read as much as I can find before posting, replacing the fuel filter was a challenge but easy once I was in there. I'm not familiar with vehicle mechanics but usually work most things out with a good guide.

Charging system fault. Details of symptoms and tests below, I’m assuming a new stator is on order, or a rewind from Custom Rewind.

Will I need a new regulator as well, is it best to replace both together?

Is there a solid test for the regulator, one poster said even fried regs cold still show correct readings?

Are there any aftermarket parts or do they need to be OEM Buell?

--

Bike is not charging battery, new battery installed (DEKA 220CCA), same results after a few rides. Failure to crank, needs recharging.

Checked so far:

GROUNDS:
Steering head, main coil cable, 2 by battery on seat rail - all cleaned and sealed tight with dialectric grease. New heavy gauge cable run from main ground cable beneath airbox to battery negative terminal as per mod fond on this forum. The steering head ground was loose causing headlight issues and blown fuses, maybe this caused the stator issues??

BATTERY:
Freshly charged, showing 12.5V, drops to 10v on start, does not go above 12v when revved indicting faulty charging system.

STATOR 3 prong connector:
Stator connector showing melted plastic on 2 pins
Continuity check, all 3 pins to each other, ohms - READS ZERO ohms
Ground check for each pin, ohms - READS 1, no reading
Checking AC - 20V at idle, raised to 30V at 1500/2000 rpm.



- VOLTAGE REGULATOR:
2 pin connector - showing slight melting of plastic on one pin
READS 25.8V across both pins and to chassis ground.


Also possible short from bare wire rubbing, not sure what connector this is.


And where do I get teh seal for the primary cover and new seals/gaskets for the gear shifter, etc??

Also been having slight surging, but not stuttering when running at even speeds or low revs. Have replaced fuel filter and screen, fixed split filter inlet seal, new spark plugs and cables, breather mod done, countless TPS resets, breather mod (is this still a thing???) Hoping this will clear up when electrical fault fixed, if not injectors to be cleaned, maybe new O2 sensor??

Sorry to load several problems into one post but I tough they may be connected.

 

[Gingahippy]

Just realised with more reading that the 2 prong may not be the regulator connector, should I be measuring the other side of the 3 pin (burnt) connector for the VR?

 

[user_deleted]

this qualifies as THE single best piece of trouble-shooting and most articulate and polite request i've ever read on here.
these "help me" questions typically posted by nitwits who not only have no idea what they're doing but want expertise and want it NOW! here's your well-deserved assistance/expertise with a smile:
1-your question as it relates to your bottom picture: the plug-in-question is the stator connector. see schematic below. arrow points to 77 connector.
2-your stator has 2 or more wires shorted together and needs replaced. healthy stator output is 47-51 AC volts @ approx. 2500rpm. yours showing approx. 40% below required output.
3-factory supplies correct primary cover and case full seal/gasket kit. i don't quite trust the aftermarket jobs as they typically have an incorrect primary cover gasket as part of their kit. factory part # is 25378-02B. available thru any dealer. list last i checked is around $40. you ABSOLUTELY MUST GIVE the parts man suffix G4, G11, L3 when ordering!!!
4-i would NOT replace the VR at the present time. easiest confirmation is to proceed with above replacement.....check charging system output....and if not at the specs below then and only then replace the VR. the specs are:
placing mulit-meter pins on battery terminals you should see approx. 13.2-14.5 DC volts @ approx. 2500rpm. that is with ONE headlight on and NO aftermarket nonsense turned on if so equipped. there IS a test for the VR but it's not always accurate.
YOUR VR is a 3-phase and the simplest test is what i said above. it's easy to replace if required later on.
5-see pic below. the unplugged oval-shaped plug is your 77 CONNECTOR.
6-you can also sometimes confirm a burned out stator with common "sniff" test. simply remove top primary cover inspection window lid and take a whiff. smells similar to a recent electrical fire? burned stator.
7-i'll let one of the other know-it-alls on here take a shot at your sputtering question. i'm exhausted.

 

[Cooter]

Lunatic has the charging system very well covered for you

The surging at low rpm is indicative of a lean condition. If you don't have the tools to read that, allow me to suggest the ECMDroid program. It's free on Google play, but uses a wireless bluetooth connection to read the ECM with your Android device (phone or tablet). I like the BT dongle I got from Buelltooth.com there are very well written instructions on that site how to use ECMDroid as well.

 

[user_deleted]

Also been having slight surging, but not stuttering when running at even speeds or low revs.

that's due to a low voltage situation. you'll also in all likelihood have historical fault code #16 stored. rejuvenate the charging system as i've outlined and the surging should disappear. then again i'm new to motorcycles and have never worked on them so i'm mostly guessing.

 

[wickedchop]

Gingahippy, Don't listen to the above board member! New to motorcycles, he is 4000 yrs old and has owned well over 300 motorcycles. The only problem he is having in his old age is remembering my track day schedule! He promises to come every track day and doesn't, I sit there and cry all day! Lmfao. Do what he has suggested and you will be running perfectly in no time.

 

[Gingahippy]

Thanks guys, let me respond in turn.

Cooter, I did have Eric Zeigler take a quick look, he lives close by and had time back then, not any more. We checked ECM Spy and it was showing the EGO as pulling 130% fuel, he said it would most likely be blocked injectors or dirty fuel filter. Turns out the fuel filter inlet seal was split, bike is much better since that fix but still surging, separate issues I think.

I checked with ECM Spy the other day, the little I know how to do with it, and it was showing AFV at approx 96% both cylinders, EGO was close to 100%, maybe a little over. Is 96% AFV good enough?


Lunatic, Just did the smell test, very electrical burnt smell. The rubbed wire was on either the Cam Position sensor or the speedo sensor, one of the 2 triangle shaped connectors. Not 46 or 77.

Am I right in assuming the suffixes for ordering are to specify the pack, rather than single primary gasket, and specific for the 06 Uly? I read elsewhere that #25378-02B was the Primary Cover Gasket only. It's very hard to get a simple fact online.


You 2 should get together and make a band, Lunatic Cooter! Sounds like most of my exes.


So . . . for now I'm looking to replace the stator, connectors 46 and 77, all necessary seals and gaskets, fix the rubbed wire on other connector, new HD or SYN3 primary oil, affix certain wires with silicone inside primary to avoid chaffing, reassemble and retest to check VR?

Any preference between a new stator or a rewind? Saving money is a preference of course.


Thank you gents, your help has been invaluable.

 

[Gingahippy]

Are aftermarket connectors ok? The Buell ones are pricey, as per usual. I paid around $12 each for the fuel filter seals, they turned out to be a piece of cut hose 1 inch long. Don't want to keep doing that.

Or just some simple splice or solder them together??

 

[user_deleted]

I read elsewhere that #25378-02B was the Primary Cover Gasket only. It's very hard to get a simple fact online.


that's because most of these so-called online experts are idiots. SUFFIX G4 is cover gasket only. use the suffixes i mentioned.

yes. aftermarket connectors will suffice.

i generated a "sticky" thing on here explaining in detail how to circumvent those ridiculous filter bushings and make your own for $1. take a look at it.

your nose confirmed everything i explained so beautifully to you.

lastly....i love wallace bakely....in a purely hetero sort of way......so don't get any ideas. he's a phenomenal rider and racer. but he's also an habitual trouble-maker and truth-stretcher. you've been so advised.

 

[Gingahippy]

Great, can't wait to get my teeth into this.

I'm assuming Mr. Bakely is wickedchop?? I did sense a hint of shenanigan in his tone.

 

[BuellyBagger]

lastly....i love wallace bakely....in a purely hetero sort of way......so don't get any ideas. he's a phenomenal rider and racer. but he's also an habitual trouble-maker and truth-stretcher. you've been so advised.

classic!

Best thread i've read in a long time... its like, about, motorcycles and junk! In all seriousness Ginga please take some time to post info about how your repair progresses, be good to have a "their I fixed it!" finish to this so future readers may learn something.

 

[Gingahippy]

I will post back for sure. And I'm sure I'll be back to ask question about the oil leak on the rear cylinder and the cleaning of the injectors.

 

[BuellyBagger]

ask question about the oil leak on the rear cylinder

rocker box gaskets? pretty simple fix, just includes and engine rotate there is thread

here it is.... https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?44993-DIY-Fix-Fan-fuses-blowing-Rocker-Boxes-leaking!-*BIG* just dont pay much attention to anything past page2/3 when tBag cuts loose. and heres a link to the gaskets I used on my lightning or you can get a set from lunaticfringe which i did for my uly...https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/james-rocker-box-gasket-kit-for-harley-evo-sportster-2007-2016#ask_and_answer_tab

 

[Gingahippy]

Thanks Bagger. The deeper I look the more I see needs doing. I'll have a half new bike by the time I'm done.

 

[Gingahippy]

Ok.That thread looks way over my head. Tell me it's as easy as Lego with a good guide to follow. This is a first for me.

 

[BuellyBagger]

A rotate is pretty easy once you get past the thought of it! I kinda do it in steps... I start with the top, airbox, inner airbox, stack, right and left side scoops. Then unhooking everything in the upper harness from the motor (as outlined in the thread) except the TPS does not need to come out of the Throttle Body, unhook both throttle cables and undo the clutch cable from the lever while im at it and upper engine mount. Then i move to the rear lower, remove the belt covers wheel loose remove belt. I had a D&D pipe so i left the muffler on, but I believe the OE pipe requires removal. Then move to the front: fender, all the engine mounts and such as outlined in the thread. On my uly i removed the left side rear set/peg mount assembly because it can scratch the primary if the motor wiggles around a bit. Last thing i take out is isolator bolt and then lower the motor onto the tire with a board between it and the tire. then go to work on what ever on the top end needs done. That thread has all the steps even if it does seem a bit chaotic. Oh, and get a manual... you'll need it.

 

[Gingahippy]

Is the PDF manual good enough or will I need a paper version? Are they the same? The pdf, is not so easy to navigate.

 

[BuellyBagger]

Is the PDF manual good enough or will I need a paper version? Are they the same? The pdf, is not so easy to navigate.

Pain to navigate, yes. But they're the same manual. I only ever really used the quick reference torque values and capacities from my manual regularly. Occasionally looking up a particular procedure. Just print off the pages you need for that project once you locate them.