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1125r Voltage regulator upgrade/replacment

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RT Performance

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
2,728
This is a Mosfet vr i am installing bought from
http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen FH012AA Regulator upgrade kit.htm
Here is the stock mounting point
3929_20110328143837_L.jpg

There is 2 10 mm bolts holding it to the rear frame work and 3 connectors 1 stator(near the air box) 1 recall relay 1 (both 3 wires all yellow to the chassi harness near the right fuse box (2 wire red and black)

disconect and remove side by side comparsion pictures silver color is stock black is the mosfet.
3929_20110328144339_L.jpg


3929_20110328144442_L.jpg


OMG NO WONDER IT's a pile of Crap it has this D name on it
3929_20110328144550_L.jpg


i chose to chop the recall harness for the stator connector be careful the friction tape is tough slice it but don't cut the wire insultion.
3929_20110328144743_L.jpg

Be sure you get enough to reach from the mounting point to the stator connector.
I utlized the stock mounting plate and studs.
mounting the vr conectors foward.
you must trim the stop on the front of the plate to fit bending or cliping with a pair of sharp pliers works.

Now you have your wires trimmed to length.
put the seals on at this time.
strip the end of the wires.
Crimp and soilder the 3 new female blades.
3929_20110328144853_L.jpg

Pry the lock loose in the front of the connector the yellow part. Like this
3929_20110328144954_L.jpg

Now install the three connectors open hole toward the lock they will click in.
push the lock back on the front of the connector and push the seals into the back side (small side of the seal goes in first)
your connector should now look like this
3929_20110328145102_L.jpg


Slip the new vr in and install the top stud through the hole.
The bottom stud lines up with the notch but does not go through the hole i just put the nut on half of it is fine.
These vr do not require contac like the stock to dispate heat.
3929_20110328145209_L.jpg


Now do the black connector.
Red +
green -
as marked on the VR
I have decided to run straight to the battery with a fuse link and soilder on I lets.
With this mounting position the stock harness from the vr would be to short.
Tape the open end of that connector up.

Now start your bike.
Don't panic
with in 30 seconds you will be charging at 14.0 volts.
(if your stator is good)
 
Nice write up there RT, glad someone else does this type of change over as well . Stock usually goes out on most bikes too soon mileage wise. Had to do something simular for my CBR-1000 even put a small comp., fan close to it. So far good to go.Nice picts.
 
excellent DYI .....RT , This thread will get lots of attention from us 1125 guys! [up] That find on the VR (Ducati)hilarious!!! :D
 
Been working 7 Days a week in the shop.
The VR was the cleanist job i did all day.
Not a house wife so i don't glove to work:p
 
Looks great as soon as mine goes out you have your first customer!Don't laugh really :D
 
Ok going to be a revision unfor seen problem.
The dam rear lock hits the connectors going to have to pull the vr and mount it differn't [mad]
My rewound stator is in and is charging at a solid 14.0 volts
 
Thank god i left the wires long.
it is tight going connectors back but does fit and you can install the rear plastick with the lock in it.
 
I will get some better pics when i get my bike back here in michigan.

The Vr is installed with the connectors facing the tail light and I used a 4 ga Amp power cored with a standard blade 30 amp fuse holder
 
just bought the same one for my daytona. jack (guy who makes that kit) only recommends wiring it directly to your battery. good thing you decided to as well. might not have been worth the investment otherwise.
 
they push alot of amps and i didn't have a good connector without cutting up my regulator and slicing it to make it longer
 
great writeup! sooo with this mod then the 09 wont have anymore problems with the electrical??
 
Just like to say that this is a great writeup and thanks, RT, for posting it and all your help and advice. +1 for you again for always giving good advice to ignorant guys like myself. I followed RT and also installed the Mosfet on my 1125Cr; it works perfectly! Jack is the owner of the kit and he is more than willing to help in anyway he can. He put decent instructions in with the kit and made it easy to install. I'm running 14.1-14.3 volts all the time. I will occasionally be a tad higher at startup, but she drops down pretty quick.

For you 1125 guys, you can install the Mosfet on the stock placement, but make sure your connectors are towards the tail of the bike. I put mine facing forward and the side plastic seat lock hits the connectors. My time to tinker with my Cr is short, so I left it. The plastic only sticks out about a 1/2" so it's no big deal. I'll flip it over this weekend if I get some time. Leave a little slack in all your wires just in case you need to relocate it.

Also, leave Jack some feedback! He said there's been a few of us Buellers use his Mosfet, but none have given him any feedback. Help him out and let him know how it works on your Buell after installation!
 
Which is my next step this winter, God willing my stocker lasts that long. Install my EBR ECM and k&n air filter tomorrow!

FYI, if you do the Mosfet regulator upgrade, your check engine light will come on for a few minutes and go off for a few minutes continuously. RT and I both experience that now.

And do not ride your bike if your gauge reads "System Voltage" and your signals don't work. That's the sign of a crapped out regulator. If you ride much with it like that, you'll burn out your headlamp bulbs. I rode maybe 30-45 miles with a bad regulator and burnt my bulbs. It's ok though because the stockers suck. Just put on some Silverstar H7 bulbs and they seem to be working great thus far (it's not dark yet).
 
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