Cooter
Well-known member
Don't let the rumors of needing an engine rotate, special sealing goo, or repeated attempts, dissuade you from fixing those leaking intake seals! Theres plenty of You Tube vids that are very descriptive and helpful. This isn't one of them, but your Buell will thank you!
Pre start (no cheating, LOL!)
Theres only a few weird/hard things:
I used long bent tip needle nose pliers for a ton of stuff, including removing the injector plugs.
1) I removed the coil for hand access, but didn't even need to remove its bracket.
2) The little torx bolt that bolts coil bracket to the TB comes out from the top with a 1/4" hex drive ratchet and t20 bit in a 1" holder so the end of the ratchet clears the coil bracket. Fiddly but if I can do it with my Hulk hands, you can too
3) The left side TB flange bolts are loosened with a one-piece 1/2" universal socket, 6" extension and ratchet (Both 3/8" and 1/4" drive fit). Or even from the bottom with a box end wrench. Remember they only need to be loosened, not removed.
4) Theres no cheat for the throttle cables, you gotta take off the right control and undo them at the grip.
5) Take out the little 9/32" allen that holds the fuel rail to the TB and remove the injectors for MUCH more room to work on the dreaded flange allens.
6) The dreaded flange allens came out easy simply using a long ball-end allen socket. The rear is simple, the front I got by adding a 6" wobbly extension and going under the rear frame cross brace.
7) Rotate TB 90* clockwise and out.
Dreamy clock in lower left
After sonic cleaning the TB and injectors, I put H-D seals on dry (like OE) and made sure the front and rear flanges were on the correct side.
Dropped in the TB the same way it came out, rotated 90* anti-clockwise, slipped the flanges over the left side bolts, pulled up to align the right side allens (fiddly) and snugged up the flanges, making sure that there was the same amount of space on each cylinder. I re attached the T20 coil bracket bolt and then tightened the flanges to seal them. Then put on injectors, throttle cables, etc.
Runs great now and the AFV isn't 135 anymore:angel:
Pre start (no cheating, LOL!)
Theres only a few weird/hard things:
I used long bent tip needle nose pliers for a ton of stuff, including removing the injector plugs.
1) I removed the coil for hand access, but didn't even need to remove its bracket.
2) The little torx bolt that bolts coil bracket to the TB comes out from the top with a 1/4" hex drive ratchet and t20 bit in a 1" holder so the end of the ratchet clears the coil bracket. Fiddly but if I can do it with my Hulk hands, you can too
3) The left side TB flange bolts are loosened with a one-piece 1/2" universal socket, 6" extension and ratchet (Both 3/8" and 1/4" drive fit). Or even from the bottom with a box end wrench. Remember they only need to be loosened, not removed.
4) Theres no cheat for the throttle cables, you gotta take off the right control and undo them at the grip.
5) Take out the little 9/32" allen that holds the fuel rail to the TB and remove the injectors for MUCH more room to work on the dreaded flange allens.
6) The dreaded flange allens came out easy simply using a long ball-end allen socket. The rear is simple, the front I got by adding a 6" wobbly extension and going under the rear frame cross brace.
7) Rotate TB 90* clockwise and out.
Dreamy clock in lower left
After sonic cleaning the TB and injectors, I put H-D seals on dry (like OE) and made sure the front and rear flanges were on the correct side.
Dropped in the TB the same way it came out, rotated 90* anti-clockwise, slipped the flanges over the left side bolts, pulled up to align the right side allens (fiddly) and snugged up the flanges, making sure that there was the same amount of space on each cylinder. I re attached the T20 coil bracket bolt and then tightened the flanges to seal them. Then put on injectors, throttle cables, etc.
Runs great now and the AFV isn't 135 anymore:angel:
