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Buellxb Forum

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also, if you're going to drain the forks, stop by an auto parts store and see if you can find an empty gallon jug of antifreeze or oil. I cut a hole out of the side to sit the fork leg upside down to let the fork oil drain into it. You will want to try and cycle the damper but it will be difficult to fully do so while to fork is still assembled.
 
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COOTER! Why didn't you warn me not to ask! I almost feel bad for your garage 34. You should start a YouTube series 'BUELLPOCOLYPSE"


34 with the hacks and tricks! Thanks again!
 
i AGREE ABOUT FORK OIL BEING FORK OIL, BUT NO POINT IS RISKING AN ISSUE IF YOU DONT HAVE TO. THE HD STUFF IS PRETTY INEXPENSIVE, AND WILL LIKELY HAVE TO LIVE IN THERE FOR ANOTHER 15 YEARS.

uNLESS i HAD A FEELING THE OLD OIL WAS ANOTHER BRAND (LIKE IF IT WAS BLUE OR SOMETHING), THEN WHO THE HELL KNOWS.

There is no risk. The forks have no feelings. They just need lube.

Edit: after a few I like to argue
 
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Now I'm semi fluent in fluids. What would concern me is a difference is viscosity would actually allow for 2 different flow rates given the same force / orifice size. Now even if the fluids are different say a synthetic vs Dino as long as they are similar in viscosity they should behave similar under pressure (ie compression). Add moisture to the mix and that's when shocks / forks get blown out because WATER DONT LIKE COMPRESSION. I'm referencing seal blow outs. Ask me how I know.

EDIT: by 2 different viscosities I'm referring to 2 different oils that don't play nice together. They won't mix and stay separated.
 
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I mix 10w with 7 wt. I've gained weight and needed 1kg springs. I was at the limit of preload and rebound/comp dials. We will soon see how this works out. Mr. Moss will be the set-up guy.
 
I mix 10w with 7 wt. I've gained weight and needed 1kg springs. I was at the limit of preload and rebound/comp dials. We will soon see how this works out. Mr. Moss will be the set-up guy.

Just my 2 cents here- but you "shouldn't" need heavier wt to compensate for a heavier rider, that should just be a spring / springs change. Going to a heavier wt oil will also create more heat, but also be more consistent at higher Temps, and could adversely effect the rebound / compression regardless of settings. But hey I'm just a kid with a wrench
 
Just my 2 cents here- but you "shouldn't" need heavier wt to compensate for a heavier rider, that should just be a spring / springs change. Going to a heavier wt oil will also create more heat, but also be more consistent at higher Temps, and could adversely effect the rebound / compression regardless of settings. But hey I'm just a kid with a wrench

Shouldn’t but, some people like their own mix. Also, can you be sure the oil in the bottle is truly 5wt? Or that their way of designating it is the same as the other manufacturers? Who really knows what weight Harley Type E really is?

Either way, I like sticking to the stock stuff as it gives me somewhat of a known baseline. After all it’s likely what’s in your fork now. I don’t push my bike hard enough to experiment with different manufacturers and weights. Outthere is a racer and likely knows his suspension feel better than I ever will. So, if he feels his mix is what’s best for him, I ain’t gonna argue it.

And I agree with his point. Forks need lube. Clean uncontaminated oil.

As far as using different weight to change riding characteristics, it is a thing, and for some less adjustable forks like damper rod setups, changing the form oil weight is one of the few “adjustments” these forks have.

This is turning into a oil debate and those suck. Hey Outthere, pour me a drink.
 
Shouldn’t but, some people like their own mix. Also, can you be sure the oil in the bottle is truly 5wt? Or that their way of designating it is the same as the other manufacturers? Who really knows what weight Harley Type E really is?

Either way, I like sticking to the stock stuff as it gives me somewhat of a known baseline. After all it’s likely what’s in your fork now. I don’t push my bike hard enough to experiment with different manufacturers and weights. Outthere is a racer and likely knows his suspension feel better than I ever will. So, if he feels his mix is what’s best for him, I ain’t gonna argue it.

And I agree with his point. Forks need lube. Clean uncontaminated oil.

As far as using different weight to change riding characteristics, it is a thing, and for some less adjustable forks like damper rod setups, changing the form oil weight is one of the few “adjustments” these forks have.

This is turning into a oil debate and those suck. Hey Outthere, pour me a drink.

Well said. I was saying the oil wt to comp for rider weight, not knowing the entire situation I now feel stupid. I'll go look for my 10mm now.
 
I LIKE SCORPIONS! AND BEER!

The Showa upside down fork will hold a bunch of oil in the damper assembly unless it's pumped dry* but a BPF fork is easy to 'dump and run' for a fluid change.

Brands DO matter in that they are normally for a specific bike and the 'weight' can be very different. That will DRAMATICALLY change the damping of the forks. For a flip, meh, whatever, it will work OK with no harm done.

For a bike you like, it isn't much harder to take the fork (thats already in your hand) apart, replace the seals, check the sliders, and put fresh oil of the right viscosity in them. Your adjusters will thank you and worn sliders SUCK when you want to confidently corner.

* stop laughing A-A-Ron:)
 
I LIKE SCORPIONS! AND BEER!

The Showa upside down fork will hold a bunch of oil in the damper assembly unless it's pumped dry* but a BPF fork is easy to 'dump and run' for a fluid change.

Brands DO matter in that they are normally for a specific bike and the 'weight' can be very different. That will DRAMATICALLY change the damping of the forks. For a flip, meh, whatever, it will work OK with no harm done.

For a bike you like, it isn't much harder to take the fork (thats already in your hand) apart, replace the seals, check the sliders, and put fresh oil of the right viscosity in them. Your adjusters will thank you and worn sliders SUCK when you want to confidently corner.

* stop laughing A-A-Ron:)

Listen Jay-Qualin you got a lot of nerve....

I have fork seal kit on the way to have on hand, I feel like its going to happen. Maybe I just want it to happen. Or maybe Im just hording parts. who knows.
 
Steels and seals if you’re gonna do it right. Also get a spring compressor. About $20-$25 on the ‘bay. And a 8mm DEEP allen.

And this^^^, not worth fighting the spring, even once. But backing the pre-load off completely helps when you're as cheap as I am and bought the fork tools only after the tenth set of fork seals job.. and the rigged rigid wood clamp/hose clamp/metal strap almost takes your eye out:(

The 5/16 (8mm) long allen socket shouldn't be the "ball end" malarky either. The allen bolt at the end is shallow and will strip if not completely engaged and a NIGHTMARE if you eff it up.
 
As stated oil weight has nothing to do with rider weight. It's a damping thing.
 

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Thats true for holding weight. Thats all a springs job. But a heavy load will also need more damping. The good news is the Showa upside down fork that Buell uses has a pretty large adjustment range.

I wouldn't suggest messing with fork oil weight unless you are maxed out on an adjustment, the only way to get more damping after that is to get a thicker oil.
 
Thats true for holding weight. Thats all a springs job. But a heavy load will also need more damping. The good news is the Showa upside down fork that Buell uses has a pretty large adjustment range.

I wouldn't suggest messing with fork oil weight unless you are maxed out on an adjustment, the only way to get more damping after that is to get a thicker oil.

This ^^^^

or unless you know what you're doing... like outthere.
 
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