Race Buell Improvement Thread

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Transmission output shaft, nut is off now. We won't talk about the dremel cut off wheel and cold chisel involved in that process. Nut threads are completely gone, output shaft threads are angry, removed a ton of rust from them, but I think they'll accept a new nut? Also, that bit I thought was the output shaft itself, plastic plug in the shaft. Tomorrow will be panic mode calling HD shops to see if any have a viable replacement on the shelf.

442508481_971766848284303_2719444151228812710_n.jpg
442439662_971767258284262_5565647711291591624_n.jpg
 
There is no such thing on any XB...XL...XR as a primary pulley.

Specs:
Front belt drive pulley----left hand threads
Primary drive engine sprocket---right hand threads
Primary drive clutch hub---left hand threads
 
Local shop just immediately said 'none in stock' when I gave the PN, must have looked 'Buellish' to them.
Tried the next closest one state over, same owners, they actually checked their system and had one on hand, two hours later I now have it on hand. Turns out they really aren't much more of a drive than my 'local' shop, may just start using them in general. Will still have to go local for inspection stickers though.

It does want to start to thread on, though the pre-applied loctite is making it difficult to really feel what's going on. Once I'm done work I'm going to remove that loctite, re-chase the shaft threads with a pick and test the nut again. Confidence is mildly improved from last night.

My ye-olde 1992 Yamaha WR250ZD did the same damn thing to me years ago, I was the first to touch that nut after a couple decades and the nut's threads just evaporated when I removed it. It actually came off though in the process, this one just spun in place which increased my panic.
 
I don't trust my torque wrench in reverse, felt like a ton more force and it never clicked at 50ft/lbs, or even 40ft/lbs, and I know roughly what those feel like from doing up the rear axle and pinch bolt so... it's torqued to... something, will observe and see how it does. I need to replace my neutral switch at some point it appears too, so I'll have an opportunity to make ham of it all again down the line.
 
I wanna say that needs 180Ft/lbs (IIRC). Please check the manual.

If you weigh about that much, put your entire weight on the handle (smoothly! don't bounce) 12" from the socket. 180 lbs, one foot out= 180ft/lbs
 
There isn't a final torque spec in my book(2008 Buell Service Manual), initial to 50ft/lbs, making note to oil the back side of the nut. From there turn an additional 30deg minimum, max 45deg, to line up with the retaining bracket, and do NOT back it off any to get the retaining bracket on.
 
Wow, without searching I wonder why my old brain remembers 180 and nothing of torque turn for any XB fastener, especially torque turn on a nut? And I just had to do that nightmare seal job the other day. Maybe it's an old Sporty spec in my head? I should probably get checked for a tumor:upset:
 
Two drops? The new nut had red loctite slathered on in the baggie like they were trying to frost a cake. :D

I did inspect the seal, looked good, no signs of any weeping. One nice thing about belt vs chain was there was some light belt dust behind the pulley, but it just wiped off. No oily waxy grime to try and melt off with steam or solvent, so if that seal was so much as misting it'd have been very obvious.
 
The Uly seemed happy today for practice, calling that a win. And holy ****, at a track I know and have too many hours at this is a very different bike. I’ve not been using anywhere near what that brake can do, and this thing is WAY more flickable than my 2003 R6 was, far less effort to hustle despite weighing more. Learning a ton today, and really enjoying the XB, even though I’m also coming to the conclusion that at 28k mi she’s tired.
 
So, correction, 24k miles, and the power is more… nuanced. Front straight, where I need top end she feels lacking. Back section of the track where I’m grabbing a short shift up a hill and winding out 4th, very little can get away from me, could hang on the tail of some 600s. There is some grunt hiding in there, I’m just not good at fully utilizing it yet. Shorter gearing here would likely help too, Loudon is a TIGHT small technical track. The lil Uly was happy all weekend, push button and go, I’m slow. Started the weekend at 1:30 which is slow Am pace, got down to a 1:25 at the end of today which is bare minimum Ex pace, lots and lots of time to be had all over the track as I’m coasting too much, not using that front brake to it’s full potential, etc. The competitive side of me is pissed at being a rolling chicane in a series where I used to chase championships, but I’m also riding up classes that are full of full superbike builds on an essentially production class bike after not racing here for a couple years so…

TLDR - More seat time == more faster
 
Glad you got out there in time and great pic! Whats that one just out of frame? It's painted like a H-D VR1000?

I like to race 'up' in a lot of classes and sometimes just have to work on improving lap times while they all disappear in front of me, but the days when I can beat up on 'faster bikes' are VERY rewarding:angel:
 
That's 482, John Martel on a superbikey 1st gen SV650. He's actually one of the local Buell knowledge sources, he was racing built classic Sportster a couple years ago, then switched to the SV, but given his history I'm betting that VR1000 look is intentional.
 
Buell has a dyno date on June 3rd to get a couple pulls to evaluate it's health. I don't know the dyno so no idea if it reads high or not. Price is right rules, closest guess without going over wins:

2008 XB12XT, K&N filter, Drummer SS muffler, matching IDS ECU, 25k miles on the clock. Bike has a Dunlop slick mounted, burning VP T4 fuel.

I'm going to guess 80hp at the rear wheel.
 
Been watching this thread for a while now and looks like you’re having a great time. Yeah the power delivery isn’t like an inline 4 so keep it up and you’ll find the sweet spots.
As for the dyno you’re probably close but you might be surprised and see a bit more.
 
Unless I missed something, no easy access to either plug wire without removing bits on this thing is there? I don't want to monkey with the airbox baseplate for the dyno tomorrow so i guess no RPM / Torque for me unless I'm missing an obvious place to sneak on the dyno ignition pickup?
 

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