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- Jan 15, 2016
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Same here^^
Race Buell Improvement Thread
- Thread starter Kurlon
- Start date
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How did you clear the shock? I had to bend all 4 mounts down and then dremeled the rest.
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- Mar 24, 2010
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I've got a salvage 09 XB12R and a theft recovery (but functional) XB12LL. I've been kicking around the idea of moving the R aesthetics (tail, front fairing, etc) to the LL. I think that would be neat. What kind of headaches am I in for when trying to put that R tail on the long frame?
1. Nothing fits. On a Firebolt, the ecm, bas and fuse box fit up front.
2. The upper mountings of the Firebolt tail are too narrow.
3. The shock will hit the bottom of the subframe/pan
I made one fit but it’s going to be a track/race bike so a lot of the must haves of a street bike have gone by the wayside
2. The upper mountings of the Firebolt tail are too narrow.
3. The shock will hit the bottom of the subframe/pan
I made one fit but it’s going to be a track/race bike so a lot of the must haves of a street bike have gone by the wayside
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2016
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I don't remember having a shock clearance issue. I had to weld up the old mounting points and drill and tap new ones. I then relocated the electronics to the rear. I don't have a passenger seat. I made a fixture so the cowl goes on and off like a storage trunk. Room for hat and ect .
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2016
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- 802
It was a pretty simple install. Was my buddies bike. He broke the SS tail and bought the R tail. He lost interest and it just sat there. I'm trying to save them all so I bought it and put it back together.
Kurlon
Well-known member
I need to find a non-uly right hand switch, no need for all that heated grip wiring on the race setup. Key switch eliminator done.
I can help you with that. But I thought you were doing motion pro throttle?
Kurlon
Well-known member
I wasn't, I wouldn't mind a shorter throw setup, I've got a G2 aluminum throttle tube that's supposed to be throw but isn't, and doesn't fit well... Motion Pro setups are NOT cheap, and at the moment I don't feel like doing a full throttle cable swap so I'm just optimizing what I've got for now.
If your switch looks nice, I'll just trade you for the one you want. Can't beat free!:angel:
Kurlon
Well-known member
Mine looks ok, but hanging onto it for the inevitable conversion back to street duty. Assuming I also ever find another set of Buell heated grips?
Part 1 of 'not a fairing' finished, machinists look away:
Part 1 of 'not a fairing' finished, machinists look away:
Kurlon
Well-known member
Well that was nice, took my XBRR rear wheel to the track to get a Dunlop slick mounted and the guy doing the work commented that it was 'way lighter than the other Buell wheels' he deals with. I need to get a decent scale so I can compare it fully dressed to my two bearing stocker.
I wonder how stock Buell wheels compare to other bikes of that era?
Kurlon
Well-known member
Lighter than my FZR and R6 kit for sure. I kinda wish I still had them to direct compare against. What I do have in the garage still are higher end supermoto wheels, Alpina tubeless units, a couple sets from no longer a going concern Rad MFG, and a Warp 9 forged rear wheel, though that one is bare at the moment so not a great comparison.
That's how I mounted the cluster on my bike too. Since I am running the 1125R fairing mount, the XB cluster will not fit.
2016 Kawasaki Versys RH control switch with a R6 throttle tube is what I am using. The thing to remember about the throttle on the later bikes is that the cam at the TB is an oblong shape, rather than the round ones of the earlier bikes.
It was CoOters idea. The methbuell has the same setup.
Kurlon
Well-known member
XBRR wheel installed, with a new Dunlop R7 180/65 on it, XBRR style cut down rotor, french billet pulley and Ti hardware it came in at approx 4lbs lighter than my XB two bearing rear wheel with all OEM hardware and a lightly used R7. Waiting on a pulley tool to swap the front pulley out, and looking at the flywheel/front primary sprocket it's a splined shaft rather than tapered so no puller required for it?
Going to run at Loudon next weekend, will be interesting to see how I fare on a track I actually know. Back in 2018 I got down to 1:21s on an 03 R6 I never really figured out. That bike had a Penske rear and worked forks setup for my weight and Loudon specifically, I'm confident it was a little lighter, had a bit more motor compared to my Uly. On my fully worked 489cc 92 FZR400RR SP I got down to 19s back then, I'm much more comfortable on lightweights. More recently on a 500 XC W I got down to 21s as well in 2022 after a couple years off, didn't run a full season so I would hope to improve on that had I continued. So, I'm thinking 1:23s on the Uly would be a solid start?
Going to run at Loudon next weekend, will be interesting to see how I fare on a track I actually know. Back in 2018 I got down to 1:21s on an 03 R6 I never really figured out. That bike had a Penske rear and worked forks setup for my weight and Loudon specifically, I'm confident it was a little lighter, had a bit more motor compared to my Uly. On my fully worked 489cc 92 FZR400RR SP I got down to 19s back then, I'm much more comfortable on lightweights. More recently on a 500 XC W I got down to 21s as well in 2022 after a couple years off, didn't run a full season so I would hope to improve on that had I continued. So, I'm thinking 1:23s on the Uly would be a solid start?
Kurlon
Well-known member
And... 771 Racing is ceasing operations.
Trying to get the primary pulley off so I could put the aluminum replacement on, nut stripped, spinning on the shaft and will not come off. ****.
I swear that nut is two pieces, the nut and then a separate thread bit that the nut is spinning on? I can see two three distinct bits of metal looking at the nut and shaft, the inner two aren't moving.
Trying to get the primary pulley off so I could put the aluminum replacement on, nut stripped, spinning on the shaft and will not come off. ****.
I swear that nut is two pieces, the nut and then a separate thread bit that the nut is spinning on? I can see two three distinct bits of metal looking at the nut and shaft, the inner two aren't moving.
Last edited:
"Primary pulley"?
Do you mean the pulley nut for the final drive (transmission output)? The clutch basket nut? Or the crankshaft nut?
They all have Red Loctite and will REQUIRE heat to remove, and the manual will save you from the Left Hand Thread curse depending on which one you mean. And the Torque spec on the crank nut was increased to 240-260Ft/lbs for all of the XB's way back in '08(IIRC?)
Do you mean the pulley nut for the final drive (transmission output)? The clutch basket nut? Or the crankshaft nut?
They all have Red Loctite and will REQUIRE heat to remove, and the manual will save you from the Left Hand Thread curse depending on which one you mean. And the Torque spec on the crank nut was increased to 240-260Ft/lbs for all of the XB's way back in '08(IIRC?)
Kurlon
Well-known member
Transmission output shaft, nut is off now. We won't talk about the dremel cut off wheel and cold chisel involved in that process. Nut threads are completely gone, output shaft threads are angry, removed a ton of rust from them, but I think they'll accept a new nut? Also, that bit I thought was the output shaft itself, plastic plug in the shaft. Tomorrow will be panic mode calling HD shops to see if any have a viable replacement on the shelf.
