77 connector

So, it began with the replacement of the 77 connector with the new updated one


Disconnect the negative battery terminal before you begin the repair, next remove your chin fairing followed by the pulley cover. Use some low strength Loctite when you reinstall both of those items. Locate the 77 connector and mark your wires accordingly, first pic is the wire from the voltage regulator...you get the idea


Next you'll need a scribe to remove the blade connectors from the connector halves




There's a tab on the blade connector both male and female ends, that you have to push down on to release it from the connector housing





Cut the connectors off as close as possible and crimp new connectors on (pins and sockets) a tool like this is needed for proper crimping


Insert connector pins and socket into corresponding halves and install the wedges (socket connectors go into the shorter connector housing along with the longer wedge / pin connectors into the larger connector housing with the shorter wedge).

Connect the halves and before you tidy up and reinstall the pulley cover and chin fairing, reconnect the battery and turn the bike over to make sure you did the job right

Some of the pics may not be in order, sorry...but didn't want to drag this out, so hopefully this will help you in replacing the 77 connector.

^^^^^wonderful post. thanks for taking the time.[up]

the pic's make the difference. Good job.

Nice write-up. [up]

I used a fine pair of needle-nose pliers in lieu of the scribe that you used. Also, just for insurance, I soldered the new pins to the wires after crimping.

I found the wedges a little stubborn to align & get snapped into place; I recall using the needle-nose pliers again with this step to help lock them in .

What gauge wires are at the pin 77, ive never paid that close of attention.
The reason I ask is because if i remember that HD fix pack is 20 bucks or so right? And its just a deutch connector, I ran across these the other day, of course using this will depend on the wire gauge.
http://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-2-pin-Connector-housing-Terminals/dp/B00B4F9EXY#productDetails

Anyway with that said, nice write up.
I also strongly suggest soldering the connections.

Thanks guys...you're welcome. Hadn't seen a DIY video, so what the heck this was the next best thing.

The wire is #10 AWG, and I got he kit from newcastlehd.com for $19.90... the wedges went in with no issues and was able to push the larger one in with my thumb and the shorter one, a small standard screwdriver was needed to get it seated due to the depth of the housing. Deutsch connectors are really great, easy to install and remove. I am an A&P/IA Avionics tech and build wiring harnesses for test racks and equipment for flight test projects.

Tinning the wires is great in keeping the strands together and installing it into the pin or socket before crimping, but didn't have one at home to do that changing that this weekend

This is what I maintain and work on daily...ERJ170

cool, if I am not mistaken they are using GE CF34-8E's for propulsion. So, airframe tech or turbine tech?

yeap, E5 model soon to be replace with Pratt&Whitney 1700 & 1900 on the next gen 175, 190, 195 models

both, specialize in turbine engines thanks to the Navy and Army T700 series was my core engine while in the Army and when I did defense contracting in Kuwait and Iraq.

cool, I work at GE ACSC Cincinnati

worked in Saudi for a GE contract on the 110's 1st stage compressor blade replacement in Khamis Mushayt, Bob Preslec was our GE rep.

I maintained the LSP process that did your blades

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