'06 (B)Uelly

[c3powil]

"New to me" with almost 19,000 miles. Seems to run just peachy.

Mods spotted:

Right side air scoop
Heated Grips
Windshield Bracket
Front Fender
Low Seat
Side and Back Racks with Hard luggage


I'll need the Buelltooth adapter so I can reset TPS, but I think that's about it.

 

[Cooter]

Looks really nice! Happy to join the club :eagerness:

But if it runs just peachy, why would you mess with the TPS? On an '06 it is a whole procedure to be followed exactly. Not just a button to be pressed, or it will not be running just peachy anymore:upset:

 

[c3powil]

Good question! I thought it was a routine maintenance task, not a reactionary maintenance task. If that's the case then I suppose I'll hold off.

Thanks, Cooter!

 

[Cooter]

Na. Wheel bearings, oil, primary oil, plugs, lube cables, and loctite EVERYTHING:eagerness:

Heres your manual. Theres a list in there.
http://buellmods.com/content/downloads/manuals/xbxulysses/2006_ulysses_manual.pdf

 

[c3powil]

That's good stuff man. Went out and got some blue loctite yesterday! Now I am noticing some running issues, so I may need to do a TPS reset or look into fueling issues, or possibly an intake seal. I'll make a new thread in the proper location.

 

[Cooter]

The manual lists the whole procedure for the TPS re-set. Follow it precisely:up:

I like using ECMDroid for simple tuning uploads and especially for diagnosis. The 'live data' page is priceless for seeing sensor values and avoiding replacing something thats good. It's free on Google Play store. It uses a bluetooth wireless connection to the bike and I like the Buelltooth dongle I got from Buelltooth (now Rev-Mo.com). Checking for a TB seal leak is as easy as spraying carb cleaner at them while idling, and checking AFV (and EGO) with ECMDroid will tell you what the ECM is doing to compensate for a possible lean mixture if they are indeed leaking.

Being 16 years old there are some prudent maintenance items to look for. O2 sensors get lazy, belts get UV degraded, things that you won't find a service interval in the SM. A weird Buell Uly-ism is a low seat will put weight on the ECM box and physically crack it. It's worth removing it and looking. Put Play-doh on top of it, install the seat and bounce around, see if it has clearance or if it's totally flattened.

A word of caution though: Going to look at the candy store that is Rev-Mo.com:angel: PLEASE avoid the free tune Sirens calling as a universal fix for everything. Theres no tune that will fix leaking TB seals. The rule is "FIX it, THEN modify it":applause:

 

[c3powil]

Sorry, Coot. Never saw this reply from you 'till now.

I will definitely try the playdough technique for determining if I need to move my ECM. My Uly seems to be running very well after I did the TPS reset procedure, but it can't hurt to check the seals for any leaks.

I have heard elsewhere online (which I take with the prescribed amount of salt) that the stock Buell ECM map is lean and other tunings can rectify this. Would you recommend changing the tune for a stock engine with stock pipes and muffler?

 

[Cooter]

Would you recommend changing the tune for a stock engine with stock pipes and muffler?

NO.

NOTHING has ever been made to run 'lean for the EPA'. It's a stupid myth been perpetrated since before OBD 1. Running lean causes high low CO, but very high HC and NOx emissions. EPA doesn't like that, even MORE that just running rich (high CO).In fact, I bet they'd prefer a rich mixture. Nitrogen Oxides are some of the worst of all the emitted gasses from burning fuel at high temps and HIGHLY regulated. It has been that way since the 90's

1) When operating ANY fuel injected vehicle capable of closed loop operation (like your bike) it is searching for the perfect mixture many times a second. It makes NO sense to dump extra fuel in an engine running at anything less than absolutely wide open throttle (or very fast throttle application) because it is literally wasted out the pipe, unburned, no extra power at mid throttle, just raw gas out the pipe.

2) Any 'tuning' would be done in the open loop section. Wide open throttle, hence the dyno. and only affect the engine at... you guessed it... Wide open throttle.

If a 'tune' makes your bike run differently, it is compensating for another issue that needs to be repaired, or they have messed with the closed loop targets and, see #1.

If you insist, IDSpd.com has a plug n play ECM with a dyno tuned program available for a stock muffler that does make it run better at WOT.


*simplification warning

 

[34nineteen]

Before his stint at Cal Worthingtons, Cooter worked at Andy Granetelli's Tune Up Masters back in the 90's, over off Garfield, just north of Imperial Highway. I think its now a 7-11. I'll bet they still sell STP.



I could be wrong - it was either Cal or the Loan Arranger.

 

[c3powil]

Man, I have heard that "lean for the EPA" thing WAY too often and in reference to almost every stock motorcycle tune I have inquired about. Goes to show what the hivemind can do, especially on the internet. Your response seems to make sense to me, even though I can only grasp a bit of the terminology.

 

[34nineteen]

Running lean causes high low CO, but very high HC and NOx emissions.

I realize its causes low CO and high NOx, but never understood how it causes high HC, as HC is basically the foundation for gasoline. To me, lean should result in low HC emissions also. Unless its a "lean-burn" situation where all the fuel isnt being burned.

 

[Cooter]

Hydrocarbons are simply a molecule of Hydrogen and Carbon. It is the Hydrocarbon chain length* that makes Natural gas, gas, diesel fuel, oil, etc. Thats how we get so many different things from the same crude oil. It literally comes from a teated stack that we siphon off what we need (the length of chain) at different levels, not unlike a distillery! Yum.

So, ya. HC is the foundation of the gasoline in your bike, but any length of the chain (incomplete combustion) is bad, mm-kay, even including oil vapor that the PCV system sends to the explosion factory. The goal is complete use of the whole HC chain, and any HC not combined with O2 at the end of combustion goes out the pipe.

*Simple Jack warning.

 

[Cooter]

HOLY HECK that clip gave me flashbacks. I honestly believe I can feel the difference in a .133 and a .125 check ball and re-build a Q-jet blindfolded. But the 2.5 barrel bastard in a Honda CVCC? Get that Satans spawn away from me!

 

[34nineteen]

HOLY HECK that clip gave me flashbacks. I honestly believe I can feel the difference in a .133 and a .125 check ball and re-build a Q-jet blindfolded. But the 2.5 barrel bastard in a Honda CVCC? Get that Satans spawn away from me!

I know you can tell the difference between a #3 and #4 tumbler in the padlock on my beer fridge in the dark, you hobo!

I'm going to print this pic and attach it to the front of my beer fridge.

 

[Cooter]

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


(breath)



AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

whimper.

cuddles in corner, shaking:upset:





80's-90's vacuum hose routing is my Kryptonite.

 

[Cooter]

but you could really change the code (3419):stupid:

 

[34nineteen]

but you could really change the code (3419):stupid:

That’s the same code I used on my luggage.

 

[Cooter]

I know.

 

[34nineteen]

Damn, now I need to change the combination on my luggage.

 

[cvc]

Kehin three barrel carbs were magical not good to work on but when they would work right…..
I rebuilt at least 50 of those carbs when I worked at a import repair shop in the 80’s and the shop owners were trained in Japan at Nissan and Honda. The trick to rebuilding those carbs was according to them was not to turn them over for any reason stuff would clog and you should just throw them away. But if you did a top half rebuild without removing the carb from the intake it would be great. I did them their way with a remarkable success rate.