07 xb12s sat for four years

[Cooter]

With that much stud hanging out, I'd weld a nut on it. Then use all the tricks you have to get the corrosion out, including trying to tighten it (slightly).

When it breaks anyway:upset: get one of these to drill and tap it correctly.

Don't forget the beer trick!

 

[maintenceman]

As I don't own a welder, I would have to take the bike down the road to have someone weld a nut on. Or maybe this is a good excuse to buy a wire feed welder!:up:

Question, how do you keep the sparks from the welding process from doing damage to surrounding surfaces? Wet towels?

 

[Silverrider]

Most of us backyard welders use any Flame Resistant cloth .

 

[Cooter]

You can get that cloth cheaply at Harbor freight, but I wouldn't recommend getting your welder there, lol.

 

[maintenceman]

Well, I got the broken stud out! And will put a new one in. Do I use anti seize or Loctite? I bought (2) 5/16 24 grade 8 nuts and 2 grade 8 lock washers and want to know how to attack this vibrating beast!

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[maintenceman]

My thinking is, though it may be flawed, is to put the new stud in, and possibly use a grade 8 nut or perhaps a brass nut with a lock washer... use anti seize, so the nut may come off in the future, but will stay put due to the lock washer.

Any opinions?

 

[Chicknstripn]

You're over thinking this one.
Usually exhaust stud brake because people over torque the nuts or the exhaust isn't properly secured elsewhere on the bike.
Just install stud via service manual instruction, with new exhaust gaskets, and torque accordingly. Then insure that the rest of the exhaust system is installed correctly.

 

[maintenceman]

All right then

Thanks a bunch

 

[Cooter]

I'm not sure I'd run a high grade stud in there. They are stronger (harder) but that also makes them brittle. I'd go with whatever is stock and not out think it.

 

[Silverrider]

^^^^^^^^^^^^ :up:

 

[maintenceman]

Thanks guys, job done. put it all together and torqued as you all suggested, took it for a 15 minute ride, re torqued and I hope life will be fine till I have to holler help again.

Thanks, you guys are great.

 

[Cooter]

Thats great news! Congrats!

Now you owe us pics

 

[Chicknstripn]

Hey man, good on you!
You asked good questions and you were receptive to the answers your received.
You helped us help you.
Good job!

 

[maintenceman]

Here you go guys

 

[Silverrider]

Looking good !!!!

 

[maintenceman]

Alright, new problem. My horn is not working, so I took the fly shield off and put a test light on the positive wire at the horn and pressed the button, no power. So I find the fuse and it is good, so I check my brake lights (which worked on the day I bought it at the po's house and share fuse with horn) nothing front or back. I put the test light on the red wire (stop) where it plugs into the tail light and when I activate either front or rear break it shows power at the terminal, but no light. Changed bulb, re bent tab in bulb socket still nothing. If I plug the orange wire (tail light) on to the brake tab that filament lights up. It has got me baffled. I checked the volts and both the tail and brake terminal have the same voltage.

What am I missing?

 

[maintenceman]

Here is an update... When I check the volts of the red stoplight plugin (unplugged) I get 11.4v. (when I engage front or back brake) But if I plug it onto the stoplight terminal and check voltage I get 0 volts when I engage either brake.

 

[Chicknstripn]

So you're saying when the rear light is hooked up to the connector you get no power coming from connection? But when it's not connected you have power available? Sounds like you connector needs attention. Also, are you sure the rear brake switch, at the right rear set, is working?
Check all your grounds, especially those under the front fly screen.

 

[user_deleted]

positive horn wire notorious for rubbing thru at horn bracket.
you have a ground issue at both the front cluster and rear aft of the battery box. that is why the test light illuminates but the socket does not. check to see if you have small dual black wire cluster at battery box coming off main harness and going to frame ground point. wires probably pulling out of the terminal ends.
check your small wiring harness that is on right side of bike at battery level and feeds to rear light assembly. the plug might be corroded.

 

[maintenceman]

Well Chickn, I thought the same. So tracking it down, (I did replace the stop light connector at the light) I ended up at the front brake switch and cleaned it and lo and behold, the brake light worked! It makes sense as there was a voltage present (minimal corroded connection) but once the connector was plugged in the connection was not good enough connection for any amperage to flow. Electric 101. Now, the back brake switch is still not working, but there are a few posts on this forum I will try before getting a new rear brake switch.

Were is the go to Buell parts supplier in the US?

Thanks guys