08 Firebolt Surging b/t 4K-5K in 1st/2nd gear

[hartattack81]

Hey Everyone -

Well after browsing this site for the past year and 1/2 I am proud to say that I finally found the 2008 Firebolt I was looking for and bought it off a fellow member! I rode an '01 Honda CBR for 5 years so I have a little bit of knowledge on bikes, but Buells seem to be a completely different animal. So I thank you all in advance for your help on all my current and future questions!

1. The bike is stock and has 8700 miles on it. Any recommended maintenance I should do?
2. It seems to have a surge between 4-5k rpm where is slows down, then speeds up ever so slightly but seems strange. Thoughts?
3. Whats the best RPM to run at around town. Seems like 4K is about right but the manual says 3K which seems to bog.
4. Where do you all find aftermarket parts? (ie. ECM, exhaust, etc).

Thanks Bolters! Much Appreciated!

 

[Sirius815]

1. Usual maintenance - unless you know when the last oil change was, go ahead and do it. Check the air filter and plugs.

2. What mods are on the bike? Might have some map issues.

3. I run between 2-3k around town. If you're bogging, you might have some map issues.

4. ECM you can do yourself unless you want to buy the Race ECM from Erik Buell. There's sponsors at the top right hand side of the webpage - support them as they support us. There are many other places. A little searching around the site and using google - type in "site:buellxb.com " and then what you want to search for.

Ben K.

 

[jimijeans]

Welcome to the Forum, YOU have Chosen a Very Cool bike, Perfect for getting around every day with good Handling and good TorQue. Just Remember it is not a Foreign bike. You can and most likely Will make this bike your own.Check out the Mods Section when can. THE 08+ Buells are Quite a different Animal indeed. All the Buells are.!
The TPS needs to be Reset using the Keyturn Method on the 08+ Buells bikes. The Throttle Position Reset Sensor- TPS-on the newer bikes has to be done more often THAN the Older models of Buells.OR you can Wait till it Coughs and runs badly, then do the Reset. The Older bikes have a Idle Screw and TPS has to be set by a Meter OR using a laptop or Home Computer.
NEVER use ECMSPYs' older Version Software to hook up to the 2008 TO 2010 Buell ECM. There is a newer Version of ECMSPY for that.
More on that another time.
The Keyturn Method for the 08+ buells is fast and very easy to do and after you do it a couple of times Takes about 20/seconds.There is NO Idle Screw for the 08+ Engine the ECM Adjusts that, 1'100RPMs and off you go. I always recomend reset TPS every Fillup OR at every 2/fillups for keeping the Idling correct.
Plus the Engine is warmed up and responds a little differently to the TPS reset.
Every once in about 5'000/miles you will need to use some SeaFoam in the Fuel Tank to keep your Injectors clean. Please follow the directions for adding the Product to the Fuel in the Tank.
YOU cannot BLIP the Throttle like a Foreign bike, keep it Smooth for now.Set up your Suspension for your Weight.
There are Manuals here top of the page [some areas] still pertain to all XB bikes.
OILS that work very well in the Buells are-Amsoil 20/50 in the Transmission AND the Engine.I personally use Amsoil-20/60 in the Engine and Redline 1/quart in the Transmission OR you can use 1/2 Quart of 75/90 Amsoil in the Transmission and top off the Tranny with 1/2 Quart of 20/50 Amsoil product. NEVER Speed Shift hard on the Transmission.
Your Call on that! I also use a Oil Stabilizer (Lucas)for the Engine about 1/4 of a Quart per OIL Change. Just in case you let it Idle TOO long[more than 7/minutes] on the Kick(Side stand)There is some more things too learn so post up and TAKE NOTES if you are not going to buy a Buell Service Manual. The Forum is here to help.Enjoy learning your new Ride. Ride Safe.*Jimi

 

[jimijeans]

The Surge by the way is common for this bike. Erik Buell was NOT Finished with the upgrades we would have been able to buy to Straighten out the Hesitation at the 4'000/RPMs range.The Stock ECM will get you around easy enough. Once you have Studied up some on your New to You Machine you will progress to start Modding(changing) the bike to your Special Ideas.
Here is the 08+ TPS reset.
First, Turn on the Start Kill Switch.
Second, turn on the Key Switch.DO Not Start the bike!
You will see the Guages Sweep.
Now Twist the Throttle to Full holding Firmly one full second and return to Idle one full second.
Do not let go of the Throttle!
Do This Twisting of the Throttle ONLY Three times completely.Always holding for one FULL second .
Once done with the Throttle turn off the Key.
Now Turn the Key right back on.
Let Engine light go off.
Now start the Bike. DO NOT touch the Throttle .
IF the bike stalls just restart. NEVER Twist the Throttle while trying to start the Engine.
*Jimi

 

[hartattack81]

Sirius: thanks for the suggestions. I am planning to do a full oil change and plugs.

Jim: Great detail and VERY much appreciated. I will give the TPS reset a try this morning. I am really enjoying the Bolt so far... just learning what she likes and dislikes. I took her on a twisty yesterday and she responded so well in the corners! Ill keep you posted with any updates and again THANK YOU!

 

[jimijeans]

That is what the Forum is here for, to help out the Riders so they Learn and keep riding safely. When you get ready to do your Spark plugs The [NGK-DCPR9EIX] is a good spark plug for heat range purposes and Quicker Starting power. Use onlyv a wire gapper to check the Plugs gap. The Electrodes tip[ can be damaged from a regular gapper. The Stock plugs work pretty good too!
NOW [please pay] close attention to changing the Spark plugs .
The Cylinders on many Vehicles can Strip out. So Just snug the Plugs nicely don't crank down too hard on the Plugs,[SAME for the OIL & Transmission Drain Plugs TOO!]
Remember the Rear plug can be removed by Removing the Air Box(27-Torx)4/screws. Make sure to SAVE those plastic washers and reuse them. Pay close attention to how the imprint was made so you can install those the same way so no impression dents the AirBox outer area. Gentle on the Snaps that hold the Inner Air box, Gently Push down on the inner cover so they unhook easily.
Always check your Mesh Air Filter when you tune up!
Then Cover it up so nothing goes down the Velocity Stack and down into the Throttle Body.
NOW you will need for the Changing of the Spark Plugs.
1-[3/8 drive Ratchet]- a[ 4 or 6/-3/8 extension] , if using (2 extensions together just put a [small] piece ONE ROUND of Duct Tape where they go together.You don't have to but there's a reason for my Madness.
HAVE to HAVE a 3/8 [Swivel Universal] or a least get a 5/8 Spark plug socket with Rubber insert inside the Swivel made into the Tool itself. Small Budget [Harbor Freight].
A piece of 3/8 fuel hose [NEW] for putting on the Rear Spark Plugs Insulator,so you don't Cross Thread the Rear Cylinders Head. Just push the Insulator into the fuel hose this way when you put the Spark Plug into the TIGHT as Heck area, you won't cross thread the Plug going into the Rear Cylinder Head.
It will either Slip or not work at all LETTING you know to try it differently.
The Front Plug is easy to do JUST remove the Screws at the Left Side Scoop, leave the wires for the Regulator Attached to the Scoop and let it hang off kinda sideways . Now you can look up and see the Front Cylinder Head. Remove GENTLY the Spark plug Boot with your Fingers. NOT Pliers unless they are for Spark plug Boot Removal. A little Finger Twisting back and forth will break the heats molding of the Boot.
YOU don't need to Completely remove the Spark Plug wire just push Boot out of the way! That way no OPPS happens and you crack the Plugs White[Insulator].
A [5/8 Combination Box End open End Wrench] will work to remove the Front spark plug. Thread the new Front Sparkplug in by Hand.
Then just Snugged nicely. Plug wire back on. MAKE sure the Wires metal goes on the tip ,so when it heats up with all the Shaking the Engine does it won't misfire. Good Luck.*Jimi

 

[Justaerin]

Evening all,

I did a search and this surging seems to match my issue, I hope you don't mind me posting here - just to see if you guys think mine is a similar issue.

I tightened up my clutch cable using the adjustment screw behind the clutch inspection cover. Now at about 4500 I'll get an RPM surge to 5k while increasing throttle, with no acceleration, then it'll settle back to 4500ish and continue accelerating. I thought somehow I overtightened my clutch and that even in the fully released position my lever wasn't fully engaging the clutch - is this even possible? Or should I just do the TPS reset?

I was going to loosen it up a quarter turn tomorrow, but it currently seems to be within specs... What do you guys think?

If this is unrelated, I'm really sorry about jacking the thread! Just trying to do my due diligence and search before I post

 

[Justaerin]

Readjusting the clutch seemed to do the trick