08 XB12R BROKE DOWN

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Luto14

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Joined
Oct 7, 2012
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5
While ride down the highway started breaking up and lost speedometer and tachometer then stalled out. Now have power but just clicks when I try to start it. What could be the problem Thanks for the help and suggestions
 
Welcome to the forum!

Your issue more than likely a charging system failure. Could be as simple as a bad grounds or battery due to the vibration our bikes produce. Cheap batteries wont last cause of this. Next things are the voltage regulator, and the stator. How you test these is pretty simple.

First get your battery charged pretty good or replace it if old. Check the ground at the battery, battery to rear subframe, under air box cover and lower air box cover is the main engine to frame ground. This should allow the bike to start if battery and ground are good. Once running there are 2 eletrical connectors that run under the left side air scoop, one goes to the voltage regulator mounted to the from sub frame the other goes into the primary cover behind the rear jug, you will want to test here this is the stator. Get multi meter switch to AC volts and measure between the 2 pins, at idle 20-30volts ok, at 3-4k 70-80volts is what you wanna see. If this is not the case bad stator. If checks out connect everything test with DC volts at battery, over 2krpms 13.50+ is what you should see. If lower the voltage regulator is bad.

I suspect your battery or a ground issue because you didnt get a check engine light. At least did not state such. Good luck hope its a simple fix
 
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge . the check engine light is on but goes off after it warms up ,the first owner said that was fine it had something to do with the remapping of the Ecu but just recently I noticed that the check engine light stays on a lot longer then goes off.
 
Yeah sounds like stator or voltage reg.


Sounds more like a ground to me, I've had this issue before. On the R there is a ground used on the front of the frame behind the front fairing stay that can come loos and cause this to happen. If you wiggle them and then it comes on then that's your issue. it could have also caused a fuse to blow (ALWAYS check fuses first).


I just sold my daytona to a guy that replaced the battery because the battery died and then the bike just kept draining the batteries without charging them. We pulled the alternator and had him get it tested only to find out it was fine. The main fuse had gone out and refused itself while he was riding, when it refused itself it limited the amount of power transferred and it made the alternator/stator/rectifier quit working. Oh and if you were curious, a 99 daytona uses a car alternator (seemed a bit excessive to me).


Rant over

So after you check grounds and fuses I would take diagnostic measures on your charging system.
 
Ok got it ,FYI I hooked up the battery charger tonight and charged the battery for about 20 minuets and the bike turned over with a little struggle so I'm going to change out the battery tomorrow . I will let you know what the outcome is. Thanks again everybody for your help.
 
Charging System possibly, Regulator or the Stator. Slow Charge the battery and check your Battery Cables to see if they are Snug. You can also Remove the Battery take it to an Auto Parts store that will Load TEST the Battery out of the bike..
Make sure to keep the small Adaptors. for under the cables bolts in case the other battery has none.
This way you don't charge the battery at home then think all is OK and end up on the Broke Down Trail!. The Buell will run till the Battery is completely discharged below 12 Volts then the Yellow or Engine Cel. light will come on letting you know there is a problem To late by then.
Never [Jump Start] the Bike and leave the cables on the Bike Battery and the Other Vehicle Running trying to Charge the Bikes battery NOT Going to Happen.
PLUS the Bigger Battery in Vehicle can FRY the Wiring on your bike doing that. .Very Costly IT can do other Damage also. More on that another time..[ A Tow Truck is Cheaper]. Don't even Have the Vehicle you are Getting the Jump From Running at all!.
Use a Meter digital set to DCV=Direct Currant Volts for testing , with the Battery you have in the bike and test it at the battery.,
MAKE sure to have pre charged the battery then let it sit without charging it, then Test the Charging System at the Battery while Engine is Idling on Low Beam Headlight first. Volts should be at Idling 12.6 Volts and at 2'500 RPMs 13.6 to 14 volts of charging up to 3'200 RPMs.. If the Voltage is correct then Remove the Battery take it down to Auto parts and have it individually tested or.LOAD CHECKED. .
Make sure to get a Good Glass Mat Battery of at no LESS than 200 Cold Cranking Amps= CCA. Anything lower than that and well Towing card in wallet.
Usually the Regulator goes out on the XB models of bikes around 7'500 miles and a little more just depends on if lots of Traffic riding is done OR Highway. it is mounted very close WAY TOO CLOSE to the Front Head.
I extended my Regulator and several of our customers have had this done once they experience that Break down. Extend the Regulator out 3/4 of an Inch to keep it cooler..
Three bolts and some Aluminum Hollow Dowels & ONE small piece of Vacuum hose and the Gel and regulator stays nice and cool no matter how the traffic is. Make sure if you do the extension to put a small piece of hose with a small amount of any type of silicone on the threads then slide the hose over it on the threads sticking out of the back of bracket so the regulators wiring doesn't rest on the Threads and SHORT out the Stator or Anything else. JUST Silicone will not work. If it just turns out to be the Battery then Pre Charge the New one before installing. Do Not overcharge the New or old battery. Welcome to the Forum *Jimi . .
 
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