10,000 mile service!!

[sewerman]

My 2009 12R is getting close to the 10 thou mark so I am gearing up to service. I have the owners manual AND the factory manual and work on my bikes myself(most of the time). The manual calls for changing the fork oil. Do I really have to take the forks out to remove/replace the oil? Is this overkill for 10 thou miles? Also it seems that everyone swears by the NGK spark plugs. I live in Florida where its hot,hot,hot! I have a K&N, Jardine RT-1 and Buell race ECM. Which plug number should I use? Can these be bought thru normal parts store? I LIKE TO USE MY LOCAL VENDERS WHEN I CAN. It keeps them in business and helps me when in a bind. As always thanks for everyones help. I have learned volumes being on this site.

 

[2004xb12s]

IMO I wouldnt replace fork oil and seals until they start leaking or not performing correctly. I don think any damage can come from old fork oil.

 

[TTownBuell]

i bought my 07 XB12r with 8000 miles on it and it just turned 10000 acouple months ago, i did service the forks BUT only because i had the right fork leaking alittle bit.

Its easy to do yourself, i have never done forks before, but after reading up and watching some videos on YouTube, it was super easy. hardest part is getting them off the bike.

had the forks off and serviced and back on the bike in one afternoon......

 

[Cooter]

Yes, you need to remove the forks to drain the oil (turn them upside down), and you can see in the service manual that you own how easy it is.

It's recommended at 10K, so why would you NOT do a recommended service? Has anything good ever come from doing that?
(That's one of them thar rhetorical question thingys)

Why should you change fork oil?
Water contamination from condensation
Dirt contamination through the seals
Heat cycles breaking the oil down
A general inspection of a part that can KILL YOU if it fails. (Including the wheel bearings that are sitting right there)
and why not spend the $35 and change the seals while they're off? Too much? then just the dust seals for $15?

FYI, Monroe shocks quote that a typical shock travels up and down over one million times every mile.
I think you should change the oil and inspect anything that has cycled literally TEN BILLION TIMES, even if you are cheap and lazy like me

 

[theMelvster6]

If you have a stock muffler or a D&D, the muffler is also a jacking point. Get yourself a motorcycle jack and you can lift the entire bike off the ground. Makes easy work for front or rear suspension maintenance/repairs.

 

[sewerman]

Thanks for all your help. I have used my pit bull stand for the rear and my engine hoist to lift the front. Can't lift from the bottom with a Jardine. Looks like I will be getting busy. Any feedback on the spark plugs? Thanks again and BEERS FOR EVERYBODY! Cooter is right about doing it(but he sure sounds like my boss!). I am 62 and always on our employees to do it right,yet here I am getting my own advice back. Humble, humble, humble.

 

[user_deleted]

sewerman: i commend you for performing your own service and maintenance. you save a ton of hard-earned cash and gain the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. on the plugs, i recommend NGK DCPR9EIX. about $8 each at any quality auto parts store and work wonderfully in XB models. also take a quick look at belt for wear characteristics and the belt mating surface of the idler pulley for wear marks on the hardened surface. while bike is off the ground slowly spin each wheel and listen for wheel bearing chatter.....you'll know it if you hear it. and check bearings for signs of what appears to be rusty grease coming out of them. that is first sign of bearings on the way out. other than that and lubing the clutch cable, the manual should walk you thru it.

 

[sewerman]

Lunaticfringe,
Thanks for the plug info. I have no problem getting service from my mechanic(been using him for 30 years) but I enjoy working on my stuff and my garage is my sanctuary(my mechanic is semi-retired and now works out of his own garage and only on preferred customers, its a great set-up and you get a cold one for showing up!). I determine if someone is rich if they have a fridge in the shop/garage for beers and such. I will check all wear surfaces and bearings. Once again, loads of thanks to all those on this site. Happy Halloween!

 

[user_deleted]

my pleasure sewerman. the last 2 letters of the NGK plugs i listed for you denote iridium tipped. these plugs really wake up a Buell and highly resistant to fouling during cold starts. you have an excellent situation there with your mechanic friend. if you find that you need EBC HH brake pads or wheel bearings i stock them. PM me if needed. regards, john

 

[snrusnak]

BEERS FOR EVERYBODY!

Ok, where are you located? I'm in Orlando

DCPR9EIX is what most people use. DCPR8EIX is technically the "stock" replacement plug, but the 9 is a colder heat range and seems most people have better luck with them.

 

[sewerman]

snrusnak,
Thanks for more info on the NGK plugs. For what its worth, drum roll please, I am up the road in SANFORD! Off Lake Mary Blvd. The poor end! I ordered the plugs from Discount for $6.50 each. Will now attempt my first try at replacing the rear plug. I am sure some cursing will be involved. Film at 11.

 

[Matteson]

For bearings I put my thumbs in and roll on the ground, very sensitive to diagnose a bad bearing.

 

[Crimson04]

I haven't seen a reason to service my forks yet. It really depends on how the bike is ridden. Highway riding with a bike that is kept clean and fork seals clear should not need servicing as soon imo.
15k I will do mine.

 

[user_deleted]

Will now attempt my first try at replacing the rear plug. I am sure some cursing will be involved. Film at 11.

GENTLY remove rear plug wire for starters sewerman. then get yourself a 3/8th inch insulated plug socket (insulated being has foam insert which holds plug in socket), socket extension totalling at least 12 inches, universal joint, and some anti-seize. after removing old plug use compressed air to clean out surface around plug hole. check first that area is reasonably clean so you don't blow debris into the cylinder. put small dab of anti-seize on plug threads, makes certain crush washer is on new plug, insert plug into socket, gently feed entire socket/extension/universal joint down towards plug hole, illuminate the area to be sure plug is engaging threads straight and true, then turn extension BY HAND until plug bottoms out. if done correctly you'll turn approx. 20 turns or so until that happens. only use the ratchet to snug up the plug and torque same. many a set of plug threads in aluminum heads have been torn apart by ham-fisted or well-intended folks cross threading the plugs. using the method above it is impossible to be one of those folks.

 

[Cooter]

Perfect lunatic, not your first rodeo ay?[up] That applies to ANY vertically plugged engine!

I had an air gun that I could slip on a 10" piece of 3/8" fuel line tightly, I drilled (4) 1/4" holes crossways close to the end and plugged it (with a rubber cap and pinned it place). That way I could remove the spark plug, and use the plugged end of the hose to block the hole in the head, the side holes would blow out the debris and nothing would get down the cylinder. Win!
It saved me a bunch of time (on straight 6's and 8's), 'cause it's either that or....
Loosen the plug, Then blow out debris, THEN remove plug

 

[djs2k2]

Yeah I have over 30K on my baby and I never did fork oil, but I probably will soon.[up]

 

[Matteson]

agreed sewerman. why blow air around when its not needed. if you got debris from the road around that area dab a towel in grease lightly and pat the area so it picks up the sand and small road rocks. don't blow them into the cylinder.