Alaskan ECMSpy

[Sberge84]

Just curious, anyone in Anchorage or surrounding areas that might loan me, for a day or two, an ECMSpy cable for the PC to do a TPS reset? I'm going to buy one...I swear lol, but I just bought the bike and, well, to be honest, not sure the wife is nuts about spending more money this very second


Though id give it a shot anyways. Thanks.

 

[buellxb9rs]

Tell her $40 more isn't going to hurt anything compared to the price of the bike. Lol

 

[Sberge84]

I know, I was just giving it a shot...thought maybe someone could hook me up here in town for this weekend

 

[theMelvster6]

how many days out of the year can you ride in Alaska...like 2??? LOL Just messin...but buy the cable, and justify it by saying now I don't need to take it to the stealership to do it for me! I'm actually saving money!

 

[Sberge84]

Well, it's more like 4-5 months, lol, but yeah...I'm leaving the state mid-winter....hopefully to a little more sunshine!! Anyways, I know, I was just hoping to get this thing dialed in before I ride the few weeks I can up here. I'm looking at ordering one here soon anyways...just hate waiting ya know?

 

[raz65man]

Not sure what year bike you have, but you can do a TPS reset by cycling the kill switch and throttle in a specified order.

Straight from the Tech Manual:

Resetting the TPS on 08+ Buells
Resetting the TPS on 08+ Buells does not require external Software to perform a TPS reset, but
DirectLink can be used to confirm that it is set correctly. The 08+ Buells are equipped with Idle
Air Control logic, and the idle air and speed is under ECM control. The fully closed butterfly
position is set by a stop that is cast into the throttle body, and there is no external throttle position
stop screw.
To reset an 08+ Buell, do the following:
1. Turn on the key.
2. Set the kill switch to the run position.
3. Don’t start the engine. Rotate the throttle from fully closed (gently forced closed) to fully
open (gently held open), and then back again to closed (gently forced closed).
4. Repeat 3 times. Hold each position (fully open, fully closed) for 1 full second.
5. Turn the key off and on.
6. If you connect to Directlink, a fully closed throttle should indicate 3.7 to 4.2 degrees. If it
doesn’t, repeat the above steps.
Raz

 

[Sberge84]

I have an 07....so cable it is. Dumb question but, where do I plug in to on the xb9sx?

 

[theMelvster6]

It should be under the seat. It's a great connector with a rubber plug in it. It should be velcroed down.

 

[theMelvster6]

* gray connector

 

[Sberge84]

Once again, thank you Melvster! Looking forward to playing with my new toy!! It took me 4 days to get it cleaned up after I bought it!! A wash, lots of cue tips, and half a can of S100! I've changed the oils to Lucas High Performance Syn 20W-50, adjusted the clutch properly, and removed the belt guards and passenger pegs. It's already looking like a different bike! I need to check the tire pressure and fill it up and ill be on the road Monday!

Cheese grater chop, paint, new mirrors, new blinkers and a proper ECM burn/tps reset away from perfection!

I'm kinda upset with the PO though. He didn't take good care of the plastics. It's a kick ash with the X on the tank. Not sure if I'm correct in saying this, but I could've sworn I saw somewhere that those are getting hard to find.

I hate to do it, but I think I'm going the textured black rustoleum route. The airbox has a pretty decent sized internal crack around the front left bolt. The fly screen is pretty scratched up as well. I can always buy new plastics down the road, but I like the blacked out look on these bikes. I'd like to do the frame in that factory dark grey, but that looks like a lot of work to get the frame painted. Well see.

BTW, when I get around to the photobucket thing, I'll post photos. I got some before and after shots.

 

[theMelvster6]

no problem! you can upload photos right to your album on the forum. I have the Hero Blue air box cover and it is in rough shape as well. I bought mine about 4-5 months ago. but damn new plastics are expensive...you might give ebay a shot.

 

[Sberge84]

Funny how things work out, so I finally got my endorsement again today and got the bike insured, registered, and a fresh copy of a title in my name So, the wife is like, "Hey, if you want...we can hit the highway and go to Wal-Mart. You ride the bike and we'll follow." I was like sweet! The next town over is 13 miles of highway and has a nicer Wal-Mart, lol. Anyways, we go and come back, and she starts asking questions like, "When you got on it at that red light, what was that smell? It smelled like gas." I said, "Yeah, it is, cuz the bikes probably running rich" (It's got the breather reroute, K&N w/o the airbox delete, and a carbon Jardine RT-1, and STOCK untouched ECM). She said "You can fix that with the cable, right? Order it." I couldn't help but smile. Figured I'd share this with you guys.

 

[c818919]

Im in fairbank. I might still have mine. I can check in the morning ifyou like. Just sold it for a s1000rr.

 

[Sberge84]

Nice c818919!! I appreciate it, but I already ordered the cable. Unless you have the disc with the race maps, perhaps?? I saw an S1000RR for sale here in Anchorage. Good looking bike, just not for me.

 

[theMelvster6]

You can find all the race maps at BuellMods You just have to register but it's all free

 

[Sberge84]

Hey Melvster, if the bike has a Jardine (yeah I know), a K&N (without airbox delete), and a breather reroute, do you think just burning that particular race map will work? I downloaded that one a few days ago and it's saved on my PC while I wait for the cable to show up.

I also read up on Gatorbuells excellent write up about datalogging and tuning. I've downloaded ECMSpy and Megalog Viewer and understand the write up. Eventually, I want to try my hand at that as well. But I think Im going to start with throwing some NGK plugs in ther and burn a race map to the ECM to see if that fixes it.

By the way...when the bikes idling, there's a strong gas smell to the exhaust, is that normal?
It also surges/sputters and sounds like its missing when putting along at 20-35 mph. Its very noticeable through the exhaust sound. Besides that, it pulls like a boss when applying any throttle. The sputtering only occurs at steady throttle at any rpm under 3k. This is my biggest concern. Any ideas?

I think I'm gonna pull the front plug this morning and see what's going on in there.

 

[Sberge84]

And the front plug looks normal...sigh, they are Harley plugs and they've been in the bike for 4k miles. Guess it couldnt hurt to change em

 

[theMelvster6]

I have a D&D exhaust and K&N air filter with an open air box. I'm running the race map. It is not ideal for my setup, but It works pretty good. My afv has been staying around 108%... 100% being perfect. I think you will be good with just a race map.

Buells have a rich idle...it helps it not get blistering hot! While just sitting there. It's air cooled remember When I run race gas, I can really smell mine! It's pretty normal.

The stuttering below 3000 is also fairly normal unless you have a perfect tune. They like above 3000 RPM range. Mine Really pulls from 3500 to 6000!! It's a Harley, they do that... Lol!

Finally, NGK iridiums are good plugs to run... I have them in mine.

 

[Sberge84]

Funny you say that, cuz when I leave the base (35 mph limit...boo) and get on the highway, she really shows her colors!! After 3k she's a beast!! Either way, that's some good stuff to know Melvster...I'm looking forward to see what a TPS reset and a race map will do for it!

 

[theMelvster6]

BTW...burn just the maps, don't try to burn the whole eeprom. The .txt file you download that says race maps is actually the whole eeprom file...you need to save the fuel and timing maps as an .msq file...then fetch and save your eeprom from your bike ALWAYS SAVE MULTIPLE COPIES OF YOUR ORIGINAL EEPROM...from there you can fetch the eeprom from your bike and load the race maps into ecmspy and then click burn maps. Pretty simple process...HERE is a video that helps a lot!

I would do a tps reset and an afv reset then go for a good ride for about 20-30min to allow everything to adjust...don't really get on it, you want to be in the 2000-4000 rpm range to let the ecm to do it's thing. Maybe you already knew all that...LOL But just makin sure...