All XB models Ground wire Anomaly and Solution

[njloco]

I did as suggested here for my electrical problem, and cleaned the grounds, I missed the grounds behind the head lamp, and got stuck again but did figure it out, since cleaning the all off, no problems !

 

[34nineteen]

Good call, will do. The battery has always been on a tender, but it is at least a few years old. I'll pull it out and have it tested.

Please report back and let us know the outcome.

 

[mtg]

I think the battery is the problem. It's always on a tender as mentioned, and I've checked voltage with the ignition off (and tender unplugged), which is around 13v, so I didn't suspect the battery had any issue.

However, leaving the volt meter on the battery, then turning on the key, voltage drops to about 6v, then turning on the fuel pump drops it to 4v.

I'll borrow the battery from my other motorcycle to confirm it before dropping coin on a new battery.

 

[Silverrider]

Have your battery load tested at a reputable battery shop. or a handy load tester will tell all good tool to have in the shop.

 

[mtg]

The battery was the problem on my bike. The load test with leaving multi meter on it while turning on the key was conclusive.
However, I still removed the known good battery from my other motorcycle, hooked it up to the Buell, and it was completely fixed.

Sometimes the solution is right under your nose. Don't forget to check the simple stuff. Thanks 34nineteen for reminding me to look at the battery.

 

[34nineteen]

Awesome you found the problem! Some people have bikes with electrical gremlins they can never find!

I'll be checking and re-doing the ground at the lower tree this week and will try to take some pics (if I remember).

 

[midway]

Awesome you found the problem! Some people have bikes with electrical gremlins they can never find!

I'll be checking and re-doing the ground at the lower tree this week and will try to take some pics (if I remember).

Here is one possible location for the ground on Buell. It's not going to be accessible without some tear down. I don't have any electrical issues but the next time I have the front end off I will rework this connection as preventative maintenance and replace the screw with a hex head making it much easier to access and clean up that ground connection in the future.

 

[12R_FIRE]

Had a similar issue with my 2004 XB12R starting recently. Engine cranks, but doesn't light (everytime), then white smoke billows out from under the seat (smells like electrical). This is after replacing spark plugs and battery, and I've always kept my bike on a battery tender. I traced the negative back to frame under the seat and looks like there was some arcing there (nut has black soot where it connects to bolt). Anyways, that particular bolt free spins in the frame, any ideas on how to get that (partially soldered/fried) nut off before I cut it off with a dremel. Might as well do the preventative electrical maintenance that lunatic recommends while I'm at it. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[midway]

Might as well do the preventative electrical maintenance that lunatic recommends while I'm at it.

If you have the connections behind the forks to clean up get ready for tricky access. I managed without taking things apart this time but I'm thinking to remove the T27 star drive for a standard hex head to make things much easier in the future.

 

[34nineteen]

Since we are talking about ground anomalies, I'll throw one into the mix.

I've taken my XB12SS front end completely apart and in the process of putting everything back together again, I noticed the turn signals stopped working. Fuse checked out ok, and there was solid power to the circuit. I realized that the relay grounds through the relay mounting bracket, through the cluster. So, if you are having an issue with either of those circuits, you may want to run an independent ground wire from the "leg" of the cluster that the relay attaches to and find a more substantial ground on the module. Since the cluster is insulated from the module through those grommets, the cluster is going to need to use that one of those wires for its ground as well.

I haven't personally tried this, as my bike is not having an electrical issue and I am not sure if this will cause a ground loop situation.... but if you are having an issue and are out of ideas, you may want to give this a spin.


The bolt that hold the brake hose to the back of the module may be a good point for a ground. I believe there is a separate hole below that point, that you could run a bolt and nut through for that as well. Food for thought.

 

[Cooter]

That's a good observation 34:19. Thanks for the heads up. No worries about a ground loop though, unless your stereo is getting some alternator whine...

 

[Markxb9]

I Have a 2003 XB9s lighting and I do not have any ground on the front triple clamps or the head set is this normal, Wire harness does not have any extra wires?

 

[John Vreede]

Mark. You missed one of Lunatics posts (5th down on pg2 in my browser). Said 2003 had earths attached to headstock pinch bolt. Didn't know this, so thx for bringing it out again.

Hey Lunatic - The pinch bolt you talk about on the '03 - is that the one that only holds the plastic wiring shield directly above the headstock earth mounting point on my 07 Uly, but I presume holds up the front fairing on a Firebolt? - jv

 

[Mito]

Hey Guys, I know this post is quite old but I have recently been chasing a intermittent miss fire and uneven running on my 07 Ulysses. Problem was, I had a couple of issues going on at once. Main one was the ECM had some dry soldered joints at the plugs causing cut outs. I finally tracked that one down but the miss continued. The symptoms described in this post are very similar to mine so I have gone through the exercise of adding decent earths to the right places. I have posted some photos should this be of interest. I have taken a new earth wire from the neg terminal of the battery to the left side T Bone mount and earth strap. From there, I extended another one to the earth located on the steering head. I also took another earth from the rear pillar bolt on the coil to the right hand side of the T Bone strap so as not to congest the coil area. I used 2.5mm sq cable, decent crimp fittings as well using a quality crimper. I finished the new earths off with an epoxy lined heat shrink that bonds to the cable when heated. I will report if this has solved my running issues. Cheers, Stu

 

[John Vreede]

A few things for you to consider Stu.
1. You haven't coated the joints in corrosion protectant yet. Unless you do that you'll be back to square one. See https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?54706-Fixing-Earthing-Problems-Why-and-How
2. In running the main earth return to the battery from the engine side of the T-bone, you subject those beautifully crimped and protected lugs (nice work there!) to the full vibration of the 60yro-design engine . Just because Buells ride smooth doesn't mean the engine doesn't shake like hell! Brass and copper, that the lugs are made from, don't take kindly to vibration. When (not if) one or other of those lugs breaks, it'll start acting up again. Better to run the T-bone-to-battery earth return from the (relatively) vibration-free frame side of the T-bone. Sure you've avoided one set of potentially troublesome joints in the earth return loop of the O2 sensor and ETS, but properly cleaned and protected, it has the lowest electrical resistance of any joint on the bike. Its not any more congested on that side than the engine side and is a much easier run if using the 20 sqmm cable to help the battery start the engine.
3. You don't mention any extra earth wires within the rear subframe. Perhaps not so important on an 07 Uly as on an S or SS, but if you've gone this far you may as well complete the job. see https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?54753-Earth-Ground-Cleaning-Checklist-to-stop-misfires

You mention you've had ECM wiring issues, but I see you're still using the std ECM mounts without the standoff's atop the mounting bolts to stop the std seat (which gives way under load&time), from pressing on the ECM and cracking it. I don't use the std mounts at all, just wrapped the ECM in some 3mm thick closed cell foam with tape and it sits upside down, partially over the battery, free to move a bit if pressed.
Rgds - jv

 

[Mito]

Thanks John, I swapped a couple of the leads to the non shakey side and sprayed a bit of water dispersent around the terminals. Took it for a run after a TPS reset and yes, there was a noticeable improvement. Cranked over easier on the starter, idled better and held a steady low load speed without missing. Did give a couple of coughs when cold but I think I can tune that out. I see you were in the RNZAF. I did my time with NAC....class of 76......way back when. Cheers, Stu

 

[Chuckski]

Thanks for the great info once again!!!

 

[njloco]

You do know that, your a year late !