and so it happened..

[Mgilliganfd]

Started off as a great day; Got new power pilot 3's put on the bike and it made a world of difference in entering turns (my old diablos were more squared then i thought..) So there i was heading home in stop and go traffic red light to red light in this blistering mid day Carolina heat and i notice the temp is in reaching just over 200.. then the bike dies and i cant restart for a few minutes.. whole way home after that the tac needle would go to zero and battery light would come on and off and the voltage ranged anywhere from 11-13 or 14.. The bike just hit 5100 miles..

Im assuming this is the legendary stater issue with these bikes?

If so, I found this link to an aftermarket one that "operates at a higher temp".... what have you guys done to remedy this????
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/buell-stator

I have heard of a small hole drilled to allow oil into the stater to cool it.. PLEASE HELP!!!

 

[mrlogix]

twin motorcycles in The Netherlads makes a fix also. 5-0Dro from the forum is a U.S. Distributor for them. Just giving you options.

Do a diagnostic per the manual on the startor. There is more than a couple of threads on here that detail the diagnostics.

 

[Cosworth]

^ As logix stated above a new stator alone wont fix the problem. You'll have to get the oiling rotor from twincycles through 50dro.

 

[Mgilliganfd]

just pm'd him. hopefully this wont break the bank!

 

[Shawns]

I have heard that people replacing the regulator with the series style have had luck without the oiling rotor. I have both on mine. Better safe than sorry.

 

[victormonopoly]

I have heard that people replacing the regulator with the series style have had luck without the oiling rotor. I have both on mine. Better safe than sorry.

I have purchased the stator OP linked, purchased the CE-605SB voltage regulator and mounted that beast on the side of the oil cooler up front, took out HD's relay "fix", and then was impatient and did not modify the rotor. Thought I'd go back in to do it by now... Regardless I've got roughly 2,000 miles and 2 track days with this setup and so far all is well.

 

[mrlogix]

Do your self a favor and take a look at the wiring at the ignition switch. This is also a common issue with some of same symptoms. Didn't catch year and model of your 1125. 09's are more problematic of stator issues than 08' & 2010's.

 

[Sirius815]

Upgraded regulator is definitely something to look at as well. The "shunt" style basically have the stator at maximum current all the time, causing the overheating issue.

 

[Macbuell]

Every time I see this crap I am a little happier I sold my CR, but overall I am still sad.

 

[Sirius815]

I think I'd be more upset selling my CR than upset with the different "problems" it can potentially have. I think mine is to the point now where it should have been from the factory (reliability wise).

 

[Mgilliganfd]

just received the upgraded rotor from EBR and a new stator from Ricks. Has anyone found an alternative to purchasing the crank locking tool from EBR as well? I find it a little annoying that EBR is charging so much for replacement parts and tools needed to fix their issue!

 

[Global Eyes]

Not sure on the CR, but on my S I used a piece of aluminum that was 1"X1"x4"??. Others have used brass hinges with success.

 

[BambamXB12r]

I didn't need a puller for mine but it also didn't slide right off like in the twin motorcycles video. There was some very hard and hard to see loctite that I had to actually get a small pick and dig it out of the threads. After I did that it slid off just like in the video.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jfXS4vzaMOU

Also for the crank locking tool you might want to get ahold of the last poster on this thread. He has one available for rent.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/734073.html?1464887950

 

[Sirius815]

I was going to say exactly what bambam said. My rotor came of pretty easy and borrowed the tool from a guy on badweb.

Not a hard repair at all.

Pay close attention to the stator wires when putting in the new stator - read through this website: http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellstator/ he talks about some of the ribs on the cover that may need to be ground down to make sure the wires of the stator don't get pinched.

 

[Cosworth]

I didnt need a puller either.

I do have the tool I rent out occasionally if you don't want to buy one.

You can also get it done with a heavy duty impact but the torque wont be precise.

 

[Cooter]

You're annoyed that a company charges for an upgraded part for an out of production, out of warranty, at least 6 year old, niche motorcycle?!

You can't expect them to supply free parts forever even if some others have had he same issue.

Pay the money, fix the bike, and ride the crap out of it.

BTW a .50 cent short piece of aluminum bar stock does the job just fine. It's not brain surgery you just want to stop the gears from moving while removing and torquing the nut.