battery cutoff switch?

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Alex Knickerbocker

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Joined
Dec 23, 2013
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Hey guys, looking to put a battery cutoff switch on my firebolt. My concern is that because the bike has a computer will the full cutoff mess with the computer systems?
 
The computer has a "keep alive" input that is always connected to the battery +12V independently of the ignition switch. But all important settings related to engine management are stored in non-volatile memory, so I am not sure what it really maintains in the ECM

On the instrument panel, you can expect to get a reset of the time of day clock and trip odometers (possibly fuel trip as well??), but the main odometer will be retained.
 
Where is this "keep alive" wire? Would I be able to bypass it and put in a cutoff switch without touching the "keep alive " wire?
 
Had to look through your posts to see what bike you have. It's the 2007 XB12R, correct?

I don't think having standby power to the ECM preserves the Instrument panel Clock/trip meters. I think having power to the instrument panel itself is what does. But you can test this yourself and find out for sure!

I have a 2005 service manual, but should be the same. Here is a picture - looks like it is pin 2, a red wire, at the instrument panel connector, which runs back to the "Key Switch" fuse, then to the battery:
2005XB12R_InstrumentSchm.jpg


If it turns out to be the ECM that keeps the instrument panel alive (but I don't think it is), the "keep alive" is the yellow wire, pin 5, on the Gray connector. That wire runs directly to the "ECM" fuse, then to the battery.

Out of curiosity, are you trying to solve a problem by adding the cut-off switch?
 
I do have a 2007 xb12r, I'm going to college in a month and a necessary security measure is to add a battery cutoff switch so the bike won't start without the key. I'm just trying to find the best place to do this? Any ideas? and has anyone else added a battery cutoff and if so where?
 
alex: your logic escapes me. battery cut-off or by-pass switches came into vogue 60 years ago in the car industry to eliminate electron flow thru a vehicles' electrical system. why? fire prevention. that philosophy continues today. your apparent reason? theft prevention unless i'm missing something here. want real theft prevention alex? disc locks front and chain it to something permanent.
 
I do understand the logic of wanting to prevent a key cylinder bypass and chaining is not always convenient or allowed by campus police. I, too, think this is the wrong way to go about the security aspect though.....

Two guys and a van will have your bike picked up and gone in 5 minutes and they'll either beat ignition or part out from the safety of a garage - batt cut off won't help you. Bypassing the key cylinder takes a fair bit longer especially on a bike they're likely not familiar with. Disc lock alarm that ***** and keep your insurance paid.
 
I understand the history of cutoff switches , this would simply be another level of security on top of disc locks and a locked motorcycle cover .
 
I'll vouch for the value of a kill switch.

My very first bike was a 1979 XS650 which I'd café-d (back before either XS650s or café racers were cool, but even back then it was an eye-catching bike). I had much more sweat into the bike than any insurance company would have recognized if the bike was stolen, so I installed a micro-toggle to interrupt the ignition circuit & located it under the locking-seat. I also carried a cable which & I was pretty religious about running it through both wheels when parked.

I worked at a grocery store & one evening after my shift I came back to my bike to find my headlight on, the cable cut & the ignition wrenched into the 'on' position. It was ready to ride away if the would-be thief had got it started. The only thing that saved my bike was the switch; I've installed them on every bike I've owned since.
 
That's why I made the "stated value" comment. It covers what ever value you pick= no worries.

I'm a less-is-more type of person. Having to deal with an extra switch, cable lock. disk, lock, and cover every time would make me not ride it anymore.

There are lots of inventive ways to kill the bike that don't include chopping off the battery cable. How easy is it to pull off your seat anyway?

If you want the extra security to make yourself feel better, try using an existing switch on the bike. Like having to have your hi-beam on to activate the starter solenoid. All the wires are right there, so it makes it hard for thief guy to bypass.

Or wire your run switch backwards so "off" is "run".

Or use a small magnetic microswitch in the right control housing. Put the tiny magnet in the thumb of your glove so its a automatic dis-arm. All the wires stay inside the housing so nothing to see or bypass. It makes you always wear your gloves too!

Lots of RFID stuff on e-bay. I read the thread where a Gixxer guy inserted the RFID chip in his hand. A little extreme for me….

None of this matters if they just pick it up and throw it in a van. Buells are cool, but Eric made more than one of them.
 
That's why I made the "stated value" comment. It covers what ever value you pick= no worries....None of this matters if they just pick it up and throw it in a van
Agreed, but as a kid working in a grocery store, I didn't earn enough to afford full insurance coverage so I went with a $5 switch & spent 15 minutes to install it.

Of course it wouldn't have stopped a thief with a van, but on that day, it was enough to stop that thief, which was worth it to me! :D
 
Battery disconnect switches are expensive. They are also bulky as they need to handle a lot of amperage. I've never seen one designed small for a M/C. Not saying they don't exist. All the ones I've come across aren't meant to "hide". They do have a remote battery cut off, you'll need a relay and discrete toggle to operate it.

I would use a small mini weather proof mini toggle and control something with it. Fuel pump, BAS, ignition coil... something like that.

I remember when I had my first bike I was paranoid about someone taking it. Now I just figure if someone's gonna grab my bike they're gonna grab it. But if a kill switch makes you feel better.... go for it.
 
Wire it into the clutch safety switch or kickstand switch possibly?
That way you shouldn't have a lot of amperage flowing thru it, and shouldn't need relays.
Quick simple and cheap
 
Wire it into the clutch safety switch or kickstand switch possibly?
That's a good idea; I've even done it myself that way on other bikes, but if the OP is on an '07 it won't have a side stand switch.

I don't recall the exact colour of wire I switched but it was the ignition lead at the fuse box under the seat...
 
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