Bike won't start, no CEL

[I r dummy]

I've been stumbling on this one for a few days now and running out of ideas..

2005 Firebolt
I just fixed a short on my high bean light, and after putting everything back together, the CEL light doesn't come on, the fuel pump doesn't prime, all I get are the neutral and oil lights. I'm not getting any relay clicks from flipping the run switch, even rotating relays.

I've tried to plug it into my laptop to check the trouble code, but ECMSpy doesn't find the bike anymore, and I tried to put a jumper on the data port wires 1&2, but could not get anything to show up either.

Continuity test was OK on the run switch, and so far I've not managed to find any pinched or rubbed wires..

Nothing was done on the bike recently other than fixing a short inside the fuel pump housing a month ago, but it has been running flawlessly since.

Anyone out there smarter than me with any bright ideas? Cause honestly I'm all out at this point..

 

[anrkizm95]

fuses,ign switch?

 

[OldGeezer]

Did you disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before doing any of the electrical work? I'm just wondering if a power surge might have fried your ECM? With no ECM nothingelse will work either, I think.

 

[I r dummy]

Fuses are all good, switch appears to test ok as well.

I did unplug the battery.. Wouldn't the ECM being fried still give out trouble codes? I remember two or three codes dedicated tot he ECM on the list.. What's the best way to test it out?

 

[Stevenc150]

What did you do to fix the headlight short? Did the current problem start right after the headlight "fix" or later?

 

[I r dummy]

The headlight problem was a wire that had gotten pulled out of the connector right against the high beam, I just cleaned up the wire with very fine sand paper and secured it back in.

 

[OldGeezer]

I think it depends on how badly fried the ecm is. I am sure there is a way to test it, a quick indication would be whether the needles on the spedo & tach rotate to full & back again. From the little I have read I seem to recall that this is part of the POST the ecm does. I'm sure there is something in the manual about testing the ecm.

Did the bike run with the wire pulled out? Are you sure it is back in the right place? Have you tried removing the wire to see if the bike will run (probably, but thought I'd check)

 

[I r dummy]

Yeah, I tried to undo the fix, and there is no difference.

My needles do swing all the way and back.

 

[OldGeezer]

 

[OldGeezer]

Sorry about that…

OK, here is what my 04 manual says:L

If the engine stop switch is set to RUN with the engine off, and the ignition key switch is turned ON, the check engine lamp should illuminate for four seconds. See Figure 4-13.

Battery voltage is supplied to the lamp bulb. The lamp bulb is grounded by the ECM through the BK/Y wire. A lack of power to the ECM will cause the check engine lamp to be inopera-tive and also create a no start situation.

DIAGNOSTICS

Diagnostic Tips

Check for the following conditions:

●

Check for open in BK/Y wire.

●

Check for blown accessory fuse.

Diagnostic Notes

The reference numbers below correlate with the circled num-bers on the Test 4.9 flow chart.

1. Use HARNESS CONNECTOR TEST KIT (Part No. HD-41404), black pin probe and patch cord.

2. See Figure 4-14. Inspect connector [10] (black) for con-tamination or corrosion. If connection is good, replace ECM. See 4.16 ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE.

3. Check continuity between instrument connector [39] Pin 7 and ECM connector [10] (black), Pin 4.

Start there and I would recommend downloading a manual (its free on Buell Mods)
Good luck

 

[jimijeans]

First of all Welcome to the Buell forum.OK,If you have a 12/Volt test light Ground the Alligator clip from the Test Light to a good ground. Usually a suitable clean bolt to the frame. NOT the Battery Ground. You CAN, (Test) the light by Cliping on the Battery Cables Ground and touch the Tools point to the Positive Battery Terminal & it should light up. Now you know it works!
No batteries are needed to operate this Tester. I don't know the skills or tools you have so this is easy and cheap to get you started in the right Direction. Sears or Harbor freight have some good ones. Now remove the Fuel pump fuse and Touch w/the probes Tip only (one) AT a Time to the Fuse Block Terminal where the Fuse plugs into the Fuse box.
Make sure to [turn on] the Key Switch then turn [on] the Start/Kill Switch. Does it light up the Test Light on one of the Fuse Box terminals power side? If it does Turn off the Start/Kill switch and back on a couple of times to make sure the Switch is working properly.If the Tool is grounded properly it will light up.
Now Put in a (NEW) Fuse of the SAME Amp no higher than the Fuse Box calls for of what you are working on. You need to be Careful when Probing with the Ice Pick style tester not to stab anything OR touch anything else when checking to see if there's power to a Controled or Fused area. This way you can at least check for 12/volt power to what you are concerned about fixing. Check all the Grounds on the Bike. Check all the Battery Terminals also. Make sure before Testing, the Battery is Charged(NO) charger is to be Attached while you are Testing.
You can hook to a ground and test the tool by touching the probe to SAY maybe the power wire you fixed on your lights.Just turn on the Key Switch only and the wire to the lights you are touching will light up the Tester as long as it's grounded properly.
Now you Know you have a good ground and Can test for Voltage. You can also use a Multimeter set it to 20volts unless it's an auto ranging model . theres' Manuals at the top of the page. Take your Time and post up on your progress.Hope this gets you at least started in the Right direction.
Once you have established that you have (power) to what you need to Test you can go to another Step. *Jimi