Blast wont start, please help

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02Thumper

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May 29, 2014
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I have a 02 Blast. It has been running fine until one day I left it for 5 seconds running and thumped its was to push the kickstand right under itself. It fell on the left side, broke the mirror and minor scuffing. Well you guessed it, now it wont start. It cranks but doesn't actually start. I can send a video if need be. At work right now. I have read tons of forums and checked almost everything. I noticed before that the boot's clamp close to the engine was cracking and almost shot before all this. No the clamp is gone, I never saw it on my driveway and assume it fell off before. It seems like it is still on as I checked it but no clamp. Could loss of clamp really cause it to not turn over at all?!?! I would expect poor idling. I check battery... good, checked spark.... good, checked ignition light... blinking. Tried to bypass BAS with tying green and yellow wires in using jumper. Nothing. I evening jumped the kickstand too. Ran a magnet over the BAS and seems to be clicking but who knows??? I took it to a Harley dealer who usually does not work on buells, across town they do. They cannot figure out what is wrong but is getting no compression supposedly???? Said would have to tear down engine, that's crazy for a dropped bike that was running. This seems to happen to everyone every now any then, id be shocked if this happens everytime... What am I an they missing. I want to get it up and running but its a 400 lb paper weight now..

PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Thanks to all who respond, I appreciate the assistance and am open for any suggestions.

Ryan
 
I don't think it needs to be broken down. If you have compression, spark and it seems like ignition, i would make sure your getting fuel. does it act like it wants to start? Does your cluster light up properly? You could have bad coil.
 
Yes it sortof wanted to start maybe when I put my hand over the exhaust and tried to start it. The Cluster lights come on no problem.
 
Never trust a Harley dealer with a Blast. EVER.

Your coil is fine. They very very very rarely go bad, and certainly not from the bike falling over.

Why are you covering the exhaust to start the bike? Don't do that. It's gets your hands dirty and has absolutely zero diagnostic purpose.

The fact that your ignition module LED is flashing means that you can rule out ALL safeties. The safeties work by stopping that light from flashing, or the starter from spinning in the case of the clutch.

Did you ever put a clamp on the boot? Get a new boot and new clamps for it. It's part of your problem, definitely.

You make no mention about checking fuel. Check that there is fuel in the tank and flip your petcock (fuel valve) to reserve (so the long end is forward).

Check that your spark plug wire is still attached to both the coil and the plug.

Does it sound like it has compression? Do you have a compression gauge to check compression yourself?

"Turning over" is what the engine does when the starter is spinning it. "Firing" or "starting" is what it's supposed to do. It drives me nuts when people say, "It's not turning over." I hit the ignition and it spins just fine and I get frustrated and tell them, "THAT is turning over." To which I usually get the reply, "Well it's not firing." Then frustration really shows when I say, "Well that's a whole different set of problems. You should've said that to begin with!"

So...is it turning over and not firing, or is it not turning over at all? If it is turning over, is it making the 'chugga chugga chugga' or 'whump whump whump' noise that's indicative of good compression? These engine will run with very little compression; not well, but they will. Not starting at all means you have almost ZERO compression (it wont 'chugga' or 'whump') or you're missing one of air/fuel/spark.
 
I tried two different spark plugs amd when i thought i had enough insulation testing it on the frame.... I didnt.... Felt that one! It is hooked up to my truck withou it on cause testing it out kills the battery in two sec, so a little mote juice is making it try harder..... I replaced the clamps and new boot.... Still nothing. Trued starter fluid.... It did back fire a couple times but no firing up.... What does that mean?? Still waiting in replacement of BAS.... Any thoughts??
 
You can bypass a BAS but that's all part of the safety system ... So I wouldn't look too far into that personally ... Any possibility the float could be stuck closed Jetlee? .... I'm not that familiar with Blasts personally, but I do have some Carb background ... and since the Blast and my S1 use a very similar carb (thanks to JetLee for explaining quite a few things to me about it) i could see that as a possible (albiet longshot) issue ...
 
So new update for all...... checked compression... nothing... zilch! Nada, not even as little bit, sounds bad..... any suggestions?
 
No compression at all?... sounds like its time to pull the rockerbox and head to check the pushrods, valves and lifters.
 
How do I remove the rockerbox? Is there a guide for this, I wish I had a manual, any picks, videos of this? Thanks!
 
No compression is only a result of the valves not being closed at the right time which says to me that you may have a valve stuck open/bent pushrod/cam out of time
 
How difficult is this to assess/repair for someone who doesn't do a lot of engine work. I am experienced enough with repairs but have never opened up a engine or broke one down. Is this easy to see by removing only a couple bolts??
 
Ive never torn apart a blast but they are similar to a xb which I have done, its not too dificult the manuals are very detailed so follow its procedures. I dont know how far the bike has to be torn down to access the rocker box and cylinder head on a blast maybe you can just remove the tank, on a xb the engine has to be rotated. You'd also need a top end gasket set when putting it back together.
 
It's very similar to an XB.

Loosen (not remove) the front isolator bolts to rotate the engine down.
Remove the four socket-allen bolts holding the rocker box cover
Finagle the rocker box cover out

Now you can see the rockers and valves. To take the rocker box itself off:

Remove the two socket-allen bolts
Remove the four hex bolts in a rotating pattern, 1/4-1/2 turn each time (don't want to warp your rockerbox)
Finagle the rocker box out
DO NOT REMOVE YOUR PUSHRODS!!!

Now you're staring at the valves and valve springs on top of the head.

Assembly is reverse, follow the manual for torque specs.
 

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