breater mod question for a rookie

[pieinyourgilles]

so im doing the breather reroute and have two questions. one, is it as simple as using a T to connect the two hoses under the airbox, running a line down to a filter with another T and then a line down for drainage? two, when i took the airbox cover off there was a light coating of oil on the filter and around it, should the filter be replaced?

 

[TPEHAK]

You don't need T, just route two tubes independently from pcv valves. Do not replace filter.

 

[user_deleted]

see attached pic for basic view of simplest reroute installation. plus the below will help you:
1-light coating of oil film on airbox base plate normal. light coating on BASE of air filter normal. IF and i repeat IF filter looks to be oil-saturated approx. 1 inch or more up from bottom absolutely replace it. if a K&N then it's of no concern.
2-use 3/8th ID oil or fuel line. use simple black 1/8th wide wire ties to affix line to grommets....to your T, etc. do NOT pinch the line shut at any point or you'll eventually have significant engine problems.

3-3/8th T's getting a bit tough to source. i keep them in stock. if you can't source one locally let me know. will send you one.
4-see the hose running over top of shock mount in pic? run your new re-route hose to it, around it and down to area of right lower frame spar....by the rear master cylinder. capping off line with nice little inexpensive filter NOT required but i do it. personal preference.
5-do NOT get caught up in "catch-cans"....drain fittings....extra "T" fittings and superfluous lines.....fancy clamps. all of it nonsense and unnecessary BS you don't want or need. a healthy motor emits very little breather "goop".
6-you must plug the 2 large holes you'll have in the airbox base plate when removing factory breather hoses from stock location. plug those 2 holes with auto body plastic plugs available most anywhere. do it correctly and have some class. have seen nitwits simply tape these holes shut. looks like hell and won't last. GLUE the plugs to the base plate so they're not sucked loose. if removing base plate from frame then glue plugs to base plate from underneath.
6-lastly check your work when done. do NOT have a pinch or crimp in breather line. and CLOSELY CHECK that each rocker breather valve is correctly installed in its respective grommet. if not you'll develop a significant oil leak.

 

[sinikl]

Just an idea (and one i've seen others on here suggest) is to 'plug' the airbox base holes with a length of hose bent into a U that goes into both base fittings from above or from below. if you loop the U up into the airbox, sure, air comes in from below but is bridged to underneath the other side of the baseplate= effectively no air enters. That's how my bike was when i bought it and i've left it alone, seems to work, kinda hokey but who's looking in there with the airbox reinstalled...

 

[AlphaOperator]

I went to my local ACE and picked up some 3/8" fuel/oil line, some spring hose clips, not the screw tight type and a brass 3/8" T that has flairs on it.

To plug the holes, I picked up some automotive rubber bumpers from ACE. They come in a variety of sizes. They fit in the holes really, really snug and look better than just stuffing some hose in there IMHO, but had I not found those, I too would have just run a small length of hose to plug the holes.