Broken part...DONT KNOW WHAT IT IS! HELP!

[NinoTheFF]

[confused] i've searched every parts page and every post. i dont know what it is or how it cracked other than just stress related. it hasn't seem to affected anything yet so im trying to replace this thing asap. found it after a 300 mile ride. im just glad it didnt break whatever it is. keep in mind i've only had the bike a few days so im still trying to learn my self all the parts on here fellas.

 

[Retrax]

What year and model is your bike? It looks like the front tie bar assembly (sorry I don't have a part number)

 

[xtreme]

That would be your engine mount here is a link for all of your mounts on EBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENGINE-MOUN...ies&hash=item2ec0aab6d7&vxp=mtr#ht_1140wt_689

 

[anrkizm95]

tiebar pn#L0500.02A8

 

[Retrax]

Is it this?

http://www.buellsterparts.com/searchadvanced-submit.sc

 

[Iamarchangel]

That there is your front tie bar. That is a weird looking break. However, I wouldn't worry about it other than keeping an eye on it.

It is still doing its job. The bolt and washer are going through it to the engine. It is still solidly connected to the rest of that A-frame. The A-frame is still held by three bolts to the frame.

I'd say you're good.

There's a link to a manual at the top of the page. Probably not your bike but it will give you most of the information.

 

[Retrax]

Wow you guys are fast! The part brand new from Lakeshore HD, is only $17.80

 

[NinoTheFF]

Holy crap retrax isn't kidding! Thanks so much fellas I was at a loss haha it didn't look familiar to me. And thanks for the links!

 

[Mark XB12r]

I would make my own replacement with Heim joint rod ends.

And with that crazy assed break, I would look for other loose parts allowing for flex. Unnatural flex could have caused this failure

 

[NinoTheFF]

any ideas where to start checking?[confused] or should i just start wrenching down all over?

 

[wolfo68]

in all honesty, the threads into the case were stripped by the previous owner on mine and I kept losing bolts. So I just took the damn thing off.

 

[NinoTheFF]

i made an offer on the link xtreme sent me, and just fyi guys, it's a 2008 xb12s sorry, i thought i listed that before. i havent noticed anything from the crack and i've check all over the bike for loose bolts and nuts with nothing found.

 

[Mark XB12r]

then it could have been a bad casting... it happens...

 

[Iamarchangel]

I'd agree with bad casting. That's why I suggest leaving it alone until you have to loosen it. It's solid for now but once you take the pressure off, it probably won't go back together properly.

 

[1badtitan90]

Its just a bad casting. Both my bikes had this look.. its just poor quality in the casting process and they didn't clean up properly... should be fine.

 

[Jcastro4089]

in all honesty, the threads into the case were stripped by the previous owner on mine and I kept losing bolts. So I just took the damn thing off.

Anyone else do this? I noticed this bolt was loose today and tried to tighten it only to find that the casing is stripped out. It looks like it was held in by gunk and maybe red tape?!? Anyways, besides taking the loose bolt out, how would I go about fixing this? Retap the case and use a larger bolt? Thanks guys.

 

[wolfo68]

I've never seen anyone else do it, but it hasn't caused issues. I could just cert it, but I honestly don't feel like it.

tap and cert and you can keep using the stock bolts

 

[mixb04]

In the last picture I can tell your clutch cable bracket is broken also, which is why the clutch cable boot is melted at the top because it touched the exhaust. If you ride in the rain and water gets in there it will get down in the primary and make gravy.

I had to replace mine its pretty common.

 

[Tbone]

Heli-coil, or whatever it is called now, is what I used for stripped out engine, or frame threads. Another thing I like about Heli-coil is you use the original bolt(s), unless it has been really gouged out, and it is a quick and easy fix. Over the years I've used them in brake caliper mounting bolts, engine mounts, exhaust studs, etc... Most of the time I did not even have to take the part off the bike as long as you can tap it, spin the coil in, and then it is good to go. Very rare that I had to pre-drill, do not like doing this to Aluminum parts, and never an aluminum engine. With Aluminum engines I Just take my time by hand tapping, cleaning, and oiling as I go and I've had great results. Is this the same thing Wolfo68 when you mentioned above, tap and cert?

 

[SEXT9]

Nino, I have a few of those laying around. What's the part number on yours. If it matches, I'll send it over to you for the cost of shipping.