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Buell front wheel bearing replacement, with pics

Buellxb Forum

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uly luigi

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
1,486
well life bit me again, front wheel bearings went out last night on the way home, so this morning I decided to post up a few pics and my experiences of changing them out.
Here is the general tools needed,
8342_20110819072154_L.jpg

good penetrating oil
Anti-Sieze
Rachet and axle tool
2 Allen wrenches from tool kit
t25 tork bit, for taking off front fender
Blind bearing puller kit
couple of rags
brake parts cleaner

1) Remove Axle pinch bolts
8342_20110819072409_L.jpg


2) Remove front fender
8342_20110819072630_L.jpg


3) Raise and properly support the bike so the front wheel is off the ground a couple of inches
8342_20110819072853_L.jpg


4) Remove front axle, remember it has left handed threads, righty loosey
8342_20110819073032_L.jpg


4) Don't forget to remove the lower bolt in the caliper mount
8342_20110819073330_L.jpg


5) Rotate wheel so the gap in the spokes lines up with the caliper and rotate the caliper in as close to the hub as it will go

6) Push the wheel back towards the motor to clear the rotor and rotate the caliper outwards, gently lower the wheel to the ground

7) here it is on the ground, maybe 10 minutes time for removal
8342_20110819073655_L.jpg


8) close up of major bearing failure
8342_20110819073825_L.jpg


9) Preferred removal tool
8342_20110819074133_L.jpg


9A) Actual removal tools, BFH and cold chisel
8342_20110819074416_L.jpg


Note: Blind bearing puller was too big to fit the front bearing, slightly smaller axle

10) If using the hammer and punch method, work slowly and use plenty of penetrating oil, you can be somewhat aggressive with the removal, just be sure to work all the way around the bearing so that it comes out straight without binding or cocking to one side

11) Getting the first bearing out is pretty tough because of the spacer, it is difficult to get a good hit on the bearing, again, go slow
8342_20110819074554_L.jpg

but it will come out, slide the spacer out and then drive the other side out

12) Now to install the new bearings, new one on the right
8342_20110819074950_L.jpg


13) Big chunk of copper, I think it come from an electrical distribution bus bar, I got it from an Outside Machinist at work
8342_20110819075555_L.jpg


Note: you can use anything that is softer than the steel bearing, even a piece of good wood, 2x4 or such, to drive in the new bearing

14) LIGHT coating of anti-sieze in the cleaned bearing pocket
8342_20110819074749_L.jpg


15) Couple of light taps with hammer and driver to start the bearing, make sure it is going in straight
8342_20110819075811_L.jpg


16) Work your way slowly around the bearing checking frequently to make sure it is going in straight, and you should stop when the first bearing is slightly above the hub
8342_20110819080011_L.jpg


17) Slide in the axle spacer from the opposite side making sure it is centered in the first bearing
8342_20110819080421_L.jpg


18) repeat the same steps for the 2nd bearing, leaving it also a little above the hub, now tap both sides up nice and tight so that they are even in the hub and tight against the spacer.

It actually took me more time to post this than it did to change the bearings, 45 minutes total, including pics, hope this helps some of yall out
 
Wait a second, I didn't see the cinder block listed in the necessary tools list!:D nice write up
 
hello
let me ask you a question.
the spacer between the bearings must come into contact with the two bearings should be fixed or not.
I ask this because I have 2 pairs of pads changed in two weeks.
I saw that my spacer has a few millimeters of the yoke and vibrates.
in your opinion, the spacer is short, or have been installed incorrectly?
 
It actually took me more time to post this than it did to change the bearings, 45 minutes total, including pics, hope this helps some of yall out
I totally understand. My How-to stator replacement took me an hour and a half to write up.
Great info!
You earned a [up] [smirk]
 
Good grief your old bearings look DRY!.. I'm amazed you didn't have a total meltdown at speed, lucky you, LOL! Great write-up, btw.. (& that IS pretty clever use of the cinder block:D)


(Oh, yeah, don't you just love the smell of that aerokroil, like WD on steriods, lol)
 
I did my front and rear bearings a short while ago and also used SKF for replacement... I would suggest that it you get the chance to, pop the dust seal out of the new bearings and pack then full of bearing grease then reinstall the seal. It is very easy to remove and install with a small screwdriver or pick tool... The new bearings come with a very small amount of grease and I think that is part of the reason for bearing failure on these bikes.
 
This was my brand new SKF bearing:
I packed it FULL of grease on both sides... I had to wipe some excess off after the first long ride but now I know its well lubed!
0914011523.jpg


Old bearings the nasty one was the rear sprocket side and the cleaner was the rotor side., I was just doing a tire swap and had not had a bearing failure yet but noticed they were getting notchy..:
0914011433.jpg
 
Great pictures, and the wright up is good as well. Remember to put the carpet on the list of items needed cause Scratchin our Bikes is a No No! I have always repacked the New bearings I install due to we all know the HD Brand comes from Korea. If you can find American Bearings thats a good thing. But make sure to Repack them also.Nice Wright up !!I use Kendall Blue Grease due to it seems to work for a longer duration of time.Everyone has a favorite when it comes to products so as long as you do the work needed the bike wins every time.;)*Jimi
 
Unfortunately I do not speak English well and use google translator.
Perhaps I have not explained my problem properly.
the spacer between the bearings which stands vibrate. because he does not touch the two bearings simultaneously.
I wanted to know if the spacer has to touch the two bearings or not.
has a structural function, or serves only to protect the wheel axle?
thanks
 
+1 on the bearing grease pack.. a needle tip on your gun works great for getting inside the cages.. I use red(super sticky)on mine, & no failures yet.

Umberto, yes, the spacer will be under compression and plays a vital role in proper bearing preload... read the manual for your pre-torque and final torque values.
 
yall are repacking "Sealed Bearings"? somebody needs to do video of that, I did not know you could
 
Very good info and pics, Uly Luigi. As Onelogue told it is woth [up] and a REP POINT.

By the way gentlemen, I do not know if it is necessary to remind about but make sure you are applying force only to OUTER RACE of the bearing while pressing it into the wheel hub if you apply force to the inner race of the bearing it can seriously shorten the life of the bearing.
I always caution our stuff (mechanics) while rebuilding a centrifugal type superchargers.
 
What are you repacking sealed bearings ??
dont do that you never now how much grease you get in to the bearing if you get too much they can be hot and do a total failure , you can apply force to hole bearing but not only inner race , our special tools apply force on hole bearing (tmft 33)

Regards
Jossi
SKF Maintenance Sweden
 
@ Umberto81f: the spacer inside the wheel needs to be snug between the bearings. That, along with the outer spacers, helps to center the brake rotor inside the caliper, and keeps the side load off of the roller bearings.
 
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