Hey guys! So the ECMDroid worked great! I loved it.
I might have screwed something up though. I didn't see anything way to just ignore the code like you guys were talking about. I did find that if I turned the exhaust valve off, or turned the actuator off, the code would not return. So I ended up leaving the exhaust valve on, and the actuator off.
My first question is, was this a good way to do it?
The reason I ask: Tonight, I went on a launch break and when I tried to start my bike, I got a lot of clicking. Sounded just like this, but after a few seconds, it started up and sounded great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-oMwQx2IWo
I have heard this is due to a grounding issue, or a bad relay.
However, Not even 7 min later, I was driving (normal RPM ~2.1k) and the bike lunges twice, (as if it miss fired) and the check engine light came on, and then turned off. The bike missed several times on the ride, and even backfired when I came to a turnpike. (I assume it was a backfire, it was a very loud bang).
I decided to take the bike home, (this was about 15 min into the ride). I arrived at my place 25 min into the ride, and she just dies. The digital Odometer reading just goes blank. I turn the key off, and the fan sound pretty quite compared to normal. Turned the key back on, and she still has no readings. Went inside to get the ECMDroid. Plugged it in, and turned the key on, the odometer reading was back, when trying to start, It would just click. The code log only had two codes. 16: low voltage, and 21: acm stuck open.
Why would low voltage cause miss-firing and back-firing? And why did the code 21 come back? (To clarify, the code was in the history, it wasn't currently on. The check engine light would only come on for a few seconds and then go off.)
I have the bike charging tonight, will be out of town this week, and will come back and try to fix the starting issues. Is there anything I should look at for the missing?
I might have screwed something up though. I didn't see anything way to just ignore the code like you guys were talking about. I did find that if I turned the exhaust valve off, or turned the actuator off, the code would not return. So I ended up leaving the exhaust valve on, and the actuator off.
My first question is, was this a good way to do it?
The reason I ask: Tonight, I went on a launch break and when I tried to start my bike, I got a lot of clicking. Sounded just like this, but after a few seconds, it started up and sounded great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-oMwQx2IWo
I have heard this is due to a grounding issue, or a bad relay.
However, Not even 7 min later, I was driving (normal RPM ~2.1k) and the bike lunges twice, (as if it miss fired) and the check engine light came on, and then turned off. The bike missed several times on the ride, and even backfired when I came to a turnpike. (I assume it was a backfire, it was a very loud bang).
I decided to take the bike home, (this was about 15 min into the ride). I arrived at my place 25 min into the ride, and she just dies. The digital Odometer reading just goes blank. I turn the key off, and the fan sound pretty quite compared to normal. Turned the key back on, and she still has no readings. Went inside to get the ECMDroid. Plugged it in, and turned the key on, the odometer reading was back, when trying to start, It would just click. The code log only had two codes. 16: low voltage, and 21: acm stuck open.
Why would low voltage cause miss-firing and back-firing? And why did the code 21 come back? (To clarify, the code was in the history, it wasn't currently on. The check engine light would only come on for a few seconds and then go off.)
I have the bike charging tonight, will be out of town this week, and will come back and try to fix the starting issues. Is there anything I should look at for the missing?