Catch Can V2.0

[xtremelow]

Setup looks killer. I'm doing the rerouted tomorrow (much simpler though) on my newest bike but only because I'm trashing the top of the airfilter enclosure for a clear plexiglass top that will be back lite allowing for a nice visual of the see through red airbox cover.

Again work looks great :up:

 

[TPEHAK]

Thanks!

It's time to see if using breather reroute will help to keep valves clean and also test some cleaning solutions.

I bought some of fuel system cleaners

I already showed valves condition after about 10 bottles of Seafoam fuel additive added during last year and I do not see significant result on the valves. So I decided to try Seafoam spray and here are results

Rear cylinder intake valve before Seafoam spray application

Rear cylinder intake valve before Seafoam spray application

Front cylinder intake valve before Seafoam spray application

Front cylinder intake valve after Seafoam spray application

For me it looks like the front valve turned 180 degree and now we see dirty back side of the valve. But overall they look defensively cleaner. So it looks like Seafoam spray can clean the valves a little bit. But Seafoam fuel additive almost does not help clean the valves.

Will see how another solutions works, and then will see if breather reroute really helps to keep valves clean.

 

[user_deleted]

knowing full well from multiple past experiences that you won't "hear" a damn thing i say....this is offered up for all other board members: all of these deposits including the soot and burn effigies on this guys' valves, piston crowns and spark plugs is the result of 2 specific things: oil being comsumed and burned during the combustion process and an inordinately ridiculous amount of "additives and cleaners" being introduced into the motor. faulty valve seals along with glazed cylinder walls, worn rings and lack of combustion pressures which is the only force that expands and seals the rings to the cylinder walls....is what causes these types of deposits. an "old school" tried and true method of "steam cleaning" the combustion chambers is to bring the motor up to operating temp and dribble a 50/50 mixture of rubbing alcohol and distilled water down thru the air intake horn at approx. 2500rpm or so. all the cleaners and seafoam in the world won't clear up this mess but the "dribble" method i just described works wonders if done correctly and with dilligence and caution. sadly for you the deposits will eventually re-emerge due to the condition of your motors' internal components i just listed.
let the keyboard rumble begin!

 

[Cooter]

So... "after about 10 bottles of Seafoam fuel additive" and the additional 4 bottles of miracle cure you have pictured I'll estimate at-least $200 spent on that tired engine for a minuscule cleaning. Is it worth it

I'll second Lunatic suggestion. I have personally done it (distilled water only though) many times and seen dramatic results when done properly. Water is cheap and the physics apply. Warm engine, cool water, medium RPM, and dribble:up: 'water injection' systems are still so effective you could make a custom machined big billet box for the water and a NASA certified RPM controlled solenoid with tubing from the International Space Station to build your own system:up:

After all that, remember that carbon deposits can actually help a tired set of rings or valves seal a bit better, and a tired engine can never be repaired with a bottle.

 

[Chicknstripn]

seafoam costs, on average, $10 a bottle. You've probably dumped over a hundred bucks in your gas tank in vein. Stop throwing your money and time away on fancy catch cans and fuell additives!
Do the right thing, rebuild your top end. Pull your engine apart, hone the cylinders, clean the Pistons, install new rings, perform a valve job(clean valves and install new seals). I believe this wil put your money and time into something that will produce real results.
You're still going to get carbon build up, over time, but I believe with new valve seals, along with the cylinders and Pistons getting a new lease on life, your bike will be like new.

Well, maybe you'll consider this after spending another 100bucks on seafoam spray and netting the same results.

 

[Chicknstripn]

So... "after about 10 bottles of Seafoam fuel additive" and the additional 4 bottles of miracle cure you have pictured I'll estimate at-least $200 spent on that tired engine for a minuscule cleaning. Is it worth it

I'll second Lunatic suggestion. I have personally done it (distilled water only though) many times and seen dramatic results when done properly. Water is cheap and the physics apply. Warm engine, cool water, medium RPM, and dribble:up: 'water injection' systems are still so effective you could make a custom machined big billet box for the water and a NASA certified RPM controlled solenoid with tubing from the International Space Station to build your own system:up:

After all that, remember that carbon deposits can actually help a tired set of rings or valves seal a bit better, and a tired engine can never be repaired with a bottle.

Looks like we replyed at the same time, with almost the same thoughts!
Scary!!!!

 

[Cooter]

Common sense too!! Whats next!?! Cats and dogs living together!!????

:eagerness:

 

[TPEHAK]

I bought Seafoam fuel additive two bottle for price of one bottle while savings events in Autozone. But I'm not planning to buy this stuff such frequently again because of I see no significant cleaning result after using it. The only thing it helped is I do not need to add engine oil so often anymore like I did it before Seafoam procedures a year ago. Now engine oil stays leveled very long time.

And I am too lazy do dig into the engine so deep and spend a bunch of time just to clean the valves. I need a really good reason to do so, like if the motorcycle has completely stopped running.

I believe if motorcycle is so unreliable or has so poor design that it can not survive low mileage gentle usage it does not deserve such efforts. So I just hope it will work fine, otherwise I will have no regret if it will completely die. But for now it works just fine, just clogged valves, nothing else.

 

[Cooter]

Instead of burning a $10 bill, I burned two $5's...:eagerness:

No worries TPHAK, to each their own. Just like spark plugs with 20 electrodes, that part of the automotive business is worth millions for a reason.

Heck, I sure don't know everything. If some combination of those things somehow makes a difference, I'd be excited to know about it. Until then I'm gonna sit back and sip on some Nerve Syrup:

 

[neilrl79]

I bought Seafoam fuel additive two bottle for price of one bottle while savings events in Autozone. But I'm not planning to buy this stuff such frequently again because of I see no significant cleaning result after using it. The only thing it helped is I do not need to add engine oil so often anymore like I did it before Seafoam procedures a year ago. Now engine oil stays leveled very long time.

And I am too lazy do dig into the engine so deep and spend a bunch of time just to clean the valves. I need a really good reason to do so, like if the motorcycle has completely stopped running.

I believe if motorcycle is so unreliable or has so poor design that it can not survive low mileage gentle usage it does not deserve such efforts. So I just hope it will work fine, otherwise I will have no regret if it will completely die. But for now it works just fine, just clogged valves, nothing else.

But you'll spend countless hours and hundreds of dollars on a catch can and hundreds more dollars on snake oil? Seems like backwards thinking to me.

 

[TPEHAK]

Catch Can is easier than messing with engine and needs less time.

 

[xtremelow]

Have you thought to just try a gallon of Ethanol E85 to the tank? While I lived in Michigan I would run a mixture of E85/91 Octane to clean the valves and pistons on all my vehicles.

Thanks!

It's time to see if using breather reroute will help to keep valves clean and also test some cleaning solutions.

I bought some of fuel system cleaners

 

[BuellyBagger]

Catch Can is easier than messing with engine and needs less time.

Not for the majority of the fellas on the forum. I use my hands and head to build, make, fix, polish things not a big high dollar machine and a computer. I could top end a Buell in a couple afternoons in my crappy little shed. Absolutely agree that instead of dicking with additives, you should fix the damn motor. I sure would be if my valves looked like that.

 

[MakingPAIN]

Not for the majority of the fellas on the forum. I use my hands and head to build, make, fix, polish things not a big high dollar machine and a computer. I could top end a Buell in a couple afternoons in my crappy little shed. Absolutely agree that instead of dicking with additives, you should fix the damn motor. I sure would be if my valves looked like that.

:eagerness:

 

[XB Mick]

Man this thread made some interesting reading!! Cooter you have a way with words my man!! I love it!! To the catch can man you certainly take things to the next level!! Love your passion for your bike!! Me I'm just too busy riding!!

 

[Garbzilla]

Hey mate I like your catch can design, can have the cad files please?

 

[njloco]

To whom are you asking the ??

 

[Garbzilla]

To whom are you asking the ??

TPEHAK, the guy who made it, I think.

 

[Cooter]

He's been banned under several different screen names.
I imagine he's still lurking around here though.

 

[alfdoc1]

Routed breather lines, etc., the way you described. Had to remove the charcoal canister to make a nice breather filter mount, though. Not sure what to do with the vapor lines now. It helped with idle and very bottom end (maybe I am fooling myself), but still a flat/dead spot at around 2800. Bike has BuellTooth, Baro', and SuperTrap exhaust. Stock air filter. Still love the Buell and hoping to be able to get another. Not sure I have had so much fun and Zen on my other scoots.