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Chain Drive
- Thread starter outthere
- Start date
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Cooter
Well-known member
I have had 3 different XB's with chain drive. Two of them I did myself and one was done previously to me owning this POS whipped on poor track bike, as well as several engine mods to it. I'm not even sure of all the engine mods, but it was the fastest XB I've ridden. Dang thing would power wheelie in fourth gear if you yanked on the bars
.
I was nervous about the lack of a cush drive as well and kept a close eye on the rear sprocket mounting bolts. I don't know how many miles that rear wheel had on it, compared to the bike (because race bike), but I never had an issue with the bolts wobbling out the holes. I did give them and extra 10lb/ft when I'd torque them in pattern. Never had a problem even on track days.
EricZ made his own final cush-drive for his amazing turbo bike:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/733678.html?1394589182
Lunatic is right, there is a little spring set up in the stock clutch basket, but thats for the primary assembly and chain. You're worried about shock loading the whole final drive and transmission. A slipper clutch may help throttle transitions from on to off the gas, still not helping shock-loading, and they are ridiculously expensive. The EBR one used to be about $1000, and the STM one is junk and needs constant adjustment and maintenance (IMO).
EricZ also had a great idea and made a primary cover that fit an XB, but used an 1125 hydraulic clutch assembly. Slipper action, hydro slave, he's awesome:
There's a better link somewhere:
http://streetfighterperformance.com/xb12-turbo/drivetrain/clutch
.I was nervous about the lack of a cush drive as well and kept a close eye on the rear sprocket mounting bolts. I don't know how many miles that rear wheel had on it, compared to the bike (because race bike), but I never had an issue with the bolts wobbling out the holes. I did give them and extra 10lb/ft when I'd torque them in pattern. Never had a problem even on track days.
EricZ made his own final cush-drive for his amazing turbo bike:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/733678.html?1394589182
Lunatic is right, there is a little spring set up in the stock clutch basket, but thats for the primary assembly and chain. You're worried about shock loading the whole final drive and transmission. A slipper clutch may help throttle transitions from on to off the gas, still not helping shock-loading, and they are ridiculously expensive. The EBR one used to be about $1000, and the STM one is junk and needs constant adjustment and maintenance (IMO).
EricZ also had a great idea and made a primary cover that fit an XB, but used an 1125 hydraulic clutch assembly. Slipper action, hydro slave, he's awesome:
There's a better link somewhere:
http://streetfighterperformance.com/xb12-turbo/drivetrain/clutch
outthere
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2018
- Messages
- 670
I think I'm going to stick with belt drive. Gearings not that important doing track days and being old. I should probably keep a close eye on the belt. Sticky tires pick up lots of debris and Sunday a rock got between the belt and sprocket. Punched a hole right through it. Just finished replacing the belt. Tight SOB.
Dobe1
Well-known member
I carry a spare belt on my Ulysses, tie wrapped to the luggage rack. Harley guys always get a good chuckle when they see it. Was a great idea when a pebble ruined my belt. Now it would have been perfect if I checked to make sure my tool bag had a 1/4" allen key to remove the swing arm brace. Apparently I needed more than a T27 to change my belt.
On the positive note, you can change a belt without getting your hands dirty
On the positive note, you can change a belt without getting your hands dirty
You hit the nail on the head there!:up:
Cooter
Well-known member
In all seriousness I prefer belt drive 99+% of the time for every reason listed, and every time I wipe chain grease off a wheel!:mad-new:
But.
I did notice a definite difference how fast the rear wheel would react with hard throttle application (no cush), on the same bike, back to back, same ratio.
It would spin the rear or wheelie much easier. It was so dramatic, I pulled off the front and rear sprockets every 1000 miles to check for twisted splines and ovalled bolt holes and was surprised to always find everything in good shape.:angel: Not worth the cost for just that though.
IMO, unless you have a specific need to change the final drive (like serious drag racing) and the 9 primary swap won't do it, leave the long lasting maintenance free belt alone.
But.
I did notice a definite difference how fast the rear wheel would react with hard throttle application (no cush), on the same bike, back to back, same ratio.
It would spin the rear or wheelie much easier. It was so dramatic, I pulled off the front and rear sprockets every 1000 miles to check for twisted splines and ovalled bolt holes and was surprised to always find everything in good shape.:angel: Not worth the cost for just that though.
IMO, unless you have a specific need to change the final drive (like serious drag racing) and the 9 primary swap won't do it, leave the long lasting maintenance free belt alone.
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