Diagnosis

[ramjr55]

Ok need help of where to look. Weather broke in MD got up to 59 this weekend. Hooked my battery charger up Friday noght Sunday go to start the bike lights camera..... Flip the red ignition switch nothing. No familiar whine or anything. Here's what the manual said my question is how will I know and how to fix it.

Disconnected Wires of the ignition
Fouled plugs

Nothing is wrong with the batteries. But what is a fouled plug and how do you know. Second what wires could come unhooked everything is so buttoned up in there I don't see how. Its looking like an expensive trip to the dealer coming up.

 

[theoctopus]

First, you don't have an alarm with a starter kill loop built into it, do you?

Second, if you remove the spark plugs from the cylinders, you can determine if they have fouled. Excess carbon buildup means you are running rich. Excess white buildup means you are running lean. That being said, this probably does not explain why your fuel pump is not priming.

Third, make sure everything is connected to your battery well. If need be, disconnect everything from the battery and hit all terminals with a little bit of sandpaper and dielectric grease before putting it all back together.

Fourth, make sure to check your fuses. A simple fuse blow might be to blame, and you'd feel like a ******* taking it to a dealer to fix that. Just open up your fuse box, locate the fuse associated with the fuel pump, pull it out, and see if it has blown. If it has, just replace it and you should be good to go.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

[jb35]

it is probably one of the fuses up by the cluster on the left side, the guy i bought mine from said ther is one that controls the fuel pump

 

[ramjr55]

Yeah I replaced all the fuses when I changed my turn signals to LED's and added the flasher relay so I was going check the one for the fule pump. I heard getting to the spark plugs is a pain. So if it isn't the fuse I think a trip to the dealer for some new tires and plugs my be in order.

 

[theoctopus]

The spark plugs aren't too difficult to access with a good u-joint, 6" extension, and deep socket. The front plug is actually very easy to access (behind the left side air scoop), and the rear plug can be accessed by removing your airbox assembly.

Steven has a great write-up on how to do all of it here on the board. Use the search function and check it out.

Took me about 15 minutes to replace front and rear the first time I did it. Could probably do it in about 5 now. The dealers tell you they have to drop the engine to do it because it justifies ridiculous prices.

 

[OLDnINTHEWAY]

rmjr55,

Did you have your battery on a trickle charge during the winter, or did you just charge it the night before? If it went all winter w/o a charge, I'm thinking battery. The only thing about that is if it's a week battery, I would think it would at least run the fuel pump when you turn on the switch. So the fuse is a good guess also.

If I don't keep mine on a constant charge, it will act as though it doesn't want to start after a week or so and my battery is less than a year old. good luck!

Old

 

[ramjr55]

Checked the fuses on the left and right all was good. I had it charging all weekend on the 6-12 amp battery charger, so it should have charged the battery fully. I'll print up the write up for changing the plugs I see I got a project for the weeked.

Any suggestions on types of plugs? Side question what tool do I need to get the Chin fairing off I want to change my oil filter?

 

[OLDnINTHEWAY]

t-27 wrench and some loc-tite

Old

 

[theoctopus]

You want the NGK Iridiums, part # DCPR9EIX.

They come pregapped, though checking them with a gapper to make sure they are .034-.035" wouldn't hurt.

 

[fox8701]

first of all lets start from the bottom...

you said you charged the battery, hit the engine prime/ON (red button) and nothing happened? no lights on the dash? no fuel pump prime? no starter turnover?

Do your headlights or brake lights work?

IF thats the case, you may possibly need a new battery (or in worst case your battery tender/charger is not working). From there i would recheck the battery connections. Look for ANY corrosion between battery posts and positive/ground wires.

from there: CHECK ALL FUSES! something may have popped one of them, from there check the relays if you have any.

IF the engine does NOTHING, and the starter doesn't engage, than i'm almost 100% positive it isn't the spark plugs. If your engine cranks over and it's not starting then you have another problem on your hands..

As for the spark plugs, they do one thing, SPARK, which ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber.

If from what your explaining, i would focus on an electric problem, which could be a bad battery, bad battery charger, fuses or wiring.

So explain exactly what is going on?

 

[SeattleBuellMan]

Check out my "HELP" thread a couple days ago. You didn't give enough description of the problem but it might help a little[smirk]

 

[Ronin1]

Try checking the actual battery cables. I had to re-crimp mine as the ground pulled out of the terminal by hand![mad]

Jim

 

[ramjr55]

Thanks guys!
@ Fox - From the bottom up
1. I charged the battery, hit the engine prime/ON (red button) and nothing happened.

Dash lights turn signals and horn all work great like the battery is completely charged.

BUT NO fuel pump prime and NO starter turnover.

2. CHECKED ALL FUSES the 10 and 15 amp ones on the right and the ones on the left looking for corrosion or loose connections.

I'm going to try and get a video up for everyone to see.

 

[nativeXb12Rbuell]

i would check for troubles codes and check for corrosion on all the pins on the ECM , . see service manuals at top of page.or ecm spy if you have the ecmspy cable. double check every fuse and relays.

also the lights and horn can come on when the battery is low and not charged enough to start the bike . does it click alot or make any sounds, if so what sounds, when you try to start (pushing the red start button.).

very carefully jump start it with known fully charged battery ,(if it starts it is the battery and/or charger is bad not charging enough)(that is the easiest way to see if the battery is is bad or not charged enough then take it out and have it charged and checked like at autozone, oriellys, or sears .) and when starting it listen to what it does and watch the engine check light does after the initial 4 seconds on then 4seconds off ; does it stay on for 8 seconds and go off or does it stay continuously? first means funtional error and the continuously on means current trouble exists, or if it goes off and stays off means no trouble codes .
retrieve the trouble then diagnos it. as lined out in section s 4.9 and 4.10 (and possibly 4.12 no ecm power) in service manuals. could be the pump if the BN/Y wire is shorted to 12 volts. and could cause the igition fuse to blow DOULBE check it (check it for continuity to be sure its no blow even if it looks ok)
or if BN/Y wire is shorted to ground it would cause pum to run continuously even if motor isnt running.see section 4.24 for diagnostics on fuel pump and follow the diagnostics flow chart.
if the fuel pump does not run then the problem is wiring or ECM (or both). power= battery.... probably nothing wrong with the starter ..the starter would be the last thing to check, it needs alot of power from the battery to even start to turn it.

i would say its a bad or under charged battery (needs to at least 12.8 volts to be ok) or bad battery charger not charging it enough. if not that its wiring or ECM problems ( no ecm power or shorts or opens).