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Effect of high bars & windscreen

Buellxb Forum

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Mesozoic

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Messages
385
Location
Tucson, AZ
I bit the bullet and bought the high bar kit for the CR in an attempt to make it slightly more comfortable while cruising. I also picked up a Laminar Lip because I have one on my XB12Ss and it's really improved things while touring long distances. I love the factory CR bars for their appearance and the riding position, generally if I'm carving canyons, but for any long distance riding I defer the CR to my XB12Ss for comfort. I'd like to be able to use the CR for longer weekend trips and I figured the high bar kit and windscreen will help that. Did anyone find that the high bar kit was a waste of time/money? Does it significantly detract from the appearance of the 1125CR? How does it affect the factory setup's superb handling?
 
I love the high bars. Not a fan of the stock "clubmans".

I find the 1125CR to be more comfortable with less buffeting somehow than my XB12SS, even with the taller Zero Gravity windscreen.

Your post makes it sound like you bought the high bar kit, but didn't install it yet. If you haven't, its kind of a pain to install... especially the throttle cables. I did mine this summer, and it was a bit more involved than the kit lets on. Working in my garage over the summer didnt help.


Check out this link, as this guy did some touring on his 1125CR.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxgxnRK75BY

I did some looking through his other videos and it looks like he either knows or was a part of the group that was held at gunpoint by "camo-dudes" at Area 51. Another video shows him by Sky Harbor airport, and I think I saw another where he is in Papago park showing off his new to him 1125CR.
 
I had high bars on my CR and rode many many miles and track days like that. Can't say I thought the wind was unbearable though. I'm a tall guy (Five foot, Fifteen inches). I LOVED the look of the clubman but the angle was a killer on my wrists:( The high bars weren't too bad looking IMO.

But I think my CR came with the highball option new, the swap was super easy for me. So if a good mechanic like 34:19 had issues, it might be worth getting the cables for this one.
 
You're right, I've ordered the kit which should arrive this Friday, so have not yet installed it. I'm not a fan of messing around with throttle cables either, so it looks like I'm in for some fun. Did you consult the service manual for cable adjustment, though? For the Buells I usually follow the service manual instructions to a tee.
 
Its the routing that proves to be the trickiest, especially making sure you dont wrap the cables (or they dont wrap themselves) around each other. You may want to do some recon work and inspect where the cables loop under the headlight and transition into the engine bay. Patience, attention to detail and pictures will be your friend.

I found that one of my cables appeared to be a bit too short, however there is a mod online somewhere where they bend one of the cable stops a little forward at the throttle body. I was able to get mine to work without doing that by fully "loosening" the cable adjuster, and the throttle cables are smooth and free, regardless of position.

I didn't consult the manual, but followed the instructions that came with the kit. This seems to be one of those jobs that is much easier done the 2nd time. LOL.

Let me know if you run into a head scratcher and we'll figure it out.

Here is one of the trickier parts. This is right under the steering head.

https://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/imag...20_1735284143205075_2754940006752583680_n.jpg

Here is also something I found helpful to doing the throttle cables (from badweb)

-The two on the left are for the throttle return and throttle open. One with the black nuts is throttle return and goes on the bottom U of the silver cable bracket.
The silver nutted cable is the throttle open and it goes in the top U of the bracket.

Attach the throttle body side of the cable FIRST or you'll have a hell of a time having enough slack... leave the handlebar ends loose.

Black nut cable (throttle return) goes along the bottom of the throttle body barrel (black plastic thing with groove it in attached to spring) and attaches to the rear-most hole--you're going to have to open the throttle bodies to access it.

Silver nut cable (throttle open) goes along top of the throttle body barrel and attaches to the forward-most hole.

Then do the handlebar side of the cables.
 
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I had high bars on my CR and rode many many miles and track days like that. Can't say I thought the wind was unbearable though. I'm a tall guy (Five foot, Fifteen inches). I LOVED the look of the clubman but the angle was a killer on my wrists:( The high bars weren't too bad looking IMO.

But I think my CR came with the highball option new, the swap was super easy for me. So if a good mechanic like 34:19 had issues, it might be worth getting the cables for this one.

I think the amount of wind in the face/chest is pretty low, especially given how small the windscreen is. When I first sat on it, I was expecting to practically be blown off the saddle at "above highway speeds" :angel:

I found the clubmans a bit intimidating (scary) to ride with, so the high bar kit was a must have for me.

Its not so much that I had issues with the install, as it was a bit more daunting than a cable swap on a Sportster.... or an SV650. When you buy the accessory "kit" it includes the cables and clutch and brake hoses with the handlebar.
 
Sounds like it is a real PITA, for sure. I have family in Phoenix and go up there to visit them from time to time... let me know if you're interested in helping me out one weekend!
 
Sounds like it is a real PITA, for sure. I have family in Phoenix and go up there to visit them from time to time... let me know if you're interested in helping me out one weekend!

Its not that bad, and is actually more of a one person job. However, if you get stuck, let me know.... I can send you pics or help guide you through some of the gotcha's (like the cable hookup sequence).

This is also a good time to de-noid the bike, the resistor should be available from any HD dealer for about $8-10.
 
The de-noid is a good idea too 34:19
Part#Y0248.1am, or just add a 120 Ohm 1/4watt resistor between the terminals. Even make your own connector with a Deutch DT06-2S-P0006.

All that works on the EBR's as well without having to re-flash the ECM:up:
 
I reckon that I've been denoided for some time now. I simply removed the solenoid and bracket, along with the control cable.

Got the bar parts today, comes complete with Magura bar, throttle cables, and fluid lines. I don't think I'm going to tackle it this weekend, but will defer it until the next service (500 miles) at which point the valves need adjusting as well.
 
The resistor is to stop the CEL. If you don't have the engine light on, your ECM program has masked the error so it's unnecessary :up:

If the kit came with all that you are so good to go. Take some pics during the process? Like 34:19 said, it's a bit finicky, that will help others:eagerness:
 
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