Electrical Problem, Battery discharge while riding! Help!!!

[goose948]

I used a few times this forum to solve different problem on my Buell but this one is out of my league!

Ok so I have a XB12Ss 2006 with Race ECM and Race Exhaust. Having previous electrical problems, I have installed a voltmeter so I have an idea of the current voltage as I am riding.

the problem is my voltage will go down as I am riding until it drain my battery. My problem is intermittent and can happen for a few days and disappear for a week without notice.

What I have done...

-checked grounds connection and Battery connections
-I just got a bran New Scorpion Lithium Battery and after Load test everything is ok on this side
-I inspected the voltage regulator as per the service manual and even tried to change it just for fun (I have 3 in good working condition at home) but didn't solve my problem
-Checked for stator resistance and stator AC Voltage output as per the Service manual and I am in the acceptable range

So I did the miliampere draw test and got a reading of -12.88 on DCV... I did the test plugging the voltmeter in series between the negative pole of the batt and the actual ground wire. I am not a mechanic neither an electric technician but I decided to pull one after the other all the fuses from the Fuse box to identify which circuit the parasitic draw is coming from. Results, when I pulled out the Battery fuse I got a reading of -0.01 on DCV.

I looked at the wiring diagram of this circuit and I tried to disconnect the cluster to see if there was a short in there, No change, I still have the draw.

I may be wrong but I don't think the starter solenoid can be faulty and create the draw so I am now thinking that it may be the main harness that has a broken wire and create the intermittent problem...

I would like to know what you guys think and maybe you dealt with a similar problem before cause I don't want to tear down the whole bike if I am on the wrong path.

P.S. the only after market part installed was heating handle and they are not plugged on the Battery Circuit and been installed by professional. To make sure I took off the fuse from them and there was no change so I do not think this would be my problem.

Please help me, I am out of resources

David

 

[user_deleted]

david: impressed with your diagnostics and trouble-shooting as well as narrative description. you are on the right track. look in service manual for the wiring schematic for both stator and VR. check for any wear marks or shorts/stripped insulation on the harness end from #77 connector towards battery area....not towards VR side. also just out of curiosity what did you have as a multi-meter reading with battery fuse installed and ignition relay removed? in other words do the parasitic draw test again with battery fuse installed....get reading...then remove ignition relay and check reading. that narrows it down to battery wiring and VR wiring.

 

[goose948]

Lunaticfringe;
Thanks for your kind words! Btw I am french so English is not my mother language and I really appreciated your clear explanations! well I did the milliampere test, then removed the ignition relay and there was still parasitic draw at -12.90 on DCV. As I was there I also did the same test with the 2 other relays in the fuse box with the same results. I inspected the wiring from connector 77 and the stator to the battery and there is no sign of wear marks on the protective isolation of the wire although I found that the main harness was squeezed tight when it comes in contact with the plastic housing of the fan . I would have to remove the whole insulation of the harness to check carefully...

I did a wiggle test and visual inspection of the main harness (the part that can be seen) from the battery to the front specially when it comes to the direction and there was no change on the -12.90 on DCV.

Do I tear down the whole main harness?

 

[mrlogix]

Hey John,
Just curious, would the stator/regulator have issue with the lithium battery?

 

[Chicknstripn]

I would say no. I've had one, different brand, for over a year and I've had no charging issues.

 

[goose948]

I had this issue with acid battery before...

 

[rchuff]

It sounds like it might be 77 connector ends not making good contact

 

[goose948]

rchuff,
I just played with the inside of the 77 connector end (part that goes to the Batt) and plug everything back in to start the bike. Well the bike is now charging but I still have my parasitic draw on the battery Fuse.

What I think now...

The bike may have had 2 problems, 1x parasitic draw and 1x charging problem and we just solve the charging one. the next few days of use will tell me if the connector 77 was part of the problem.

Still don't know how to investigate to narrow down the parasitic draw?

 

[user_deleted]

i would not tear into anything else nor would i strip any insulation from any wiring bundles or harnesses until....just out of curiousity....you substitute a traditional battery and see what the results are. only takes a few minutes....any battery sized to fit the tray and with correct terminal orientation will suffice to satisfy your curiousity. i would do it before proceeding any further as it will eliminate any battery questions. as always when changing batteries do NOT cross the terminals.

 

[goose948]

I have another battery at home so I just tried it and I still have the same parasitic draw as I has with my Scorpion one...

 

[rchuff]

I would listen to John (aka- lunaticfringe ) he knows his **** when it comes to electrical stuff. Just to ask how much of a draw are you getting? I know you pulled all fuses but did you pull relays to?

 

[user_deleted]

goose: i just re-read this entire post and you went astray earlier with your testing. for parasitic draw you want to place your mult-meter inline between end of negative cable and negative battery terminal and place it on DC AMPS......NOT DC VOLTS as you mentioned. AMPS will show where the discharge is coming from and the amount. anything under 3/10ths of an amp is acceptable.

 

[goose948]

Well thanks everyone for your inputs, I finally found me problems! 1-parasitic draw was a cable that touched the frame and got spit open cause of the vibration. 2- the charge problem was the connector 77 who was in perfect shape but had a bad contact. I just deleted it and used split nuts, heat shrink and electrical tape.

Thanks again and I learned a lot from you guys!

 

[rchuff]

Good to see you solved your problem. :up: