• You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will see less advertisements, have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Electrical problems or overheating?

Buellxb Forum

Help Support Buellxb Forum:

Hypefxx

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2022
Messages
82
I was riding for 45 min between 60 to 90mph on the highway. Got close to my house and hit a long red light left turn. Sat for like 5-8 mins at the light. All of a sudden the lights flickered and it died on me. Couldn’t start it back up. It would turn on but Immediately dies. I pushed it near a sidewalk and let it sit for 5 mins. I was able to start it and everything was fine but the license plate light was off then Suddenly it turned back on. Strange, checked all fuses Cleaned grounds. Same issue again today


2009 xb12xt 25k miles
Noco lithium battery 6 months old, battery rest at 13.2 volts

I’m guessing it could be the voltage regulator since that’s still original. But not sure.

Any advice?
 
Yes, you can load test a Li-Ion battery exactly like any battery.

But I'd go the other direction from what you posted.
What do you mean by this?
It would turn on but Immediately dies.

Do you mean 'After it stalled, it cranked over just fine, would start, and immediate die'? If it's cranking over fine, your charging system and battery are fine.

Sounds like vapor-lock in the fuel system to me, perhaps a weak fuel pump? Intermittent fuel pump operation? Check your relays, swap them around.
 
Yes engine would crank and powers up fine but seems like something is blocking it or choking it down. After 5 mins of being off, it cranks up fine and everything is normal. I just don’t want to stall in the middle of a red light again. I once had the fuel boiling in the frame And can hear it bubbling. I’ll check the relay, I did a diod test on the VR and got .4 and .398 on the other which seems fine.
 
Opened the airbox up today and checked on the fuel line. I can see that it sits on top of the rear cylinder which could have been causing the vapor lock. Peeled back the braided cover and I can see the heat damaging the hose a bit. I wrapped it with a heat shield wrap and also silicone on the hose. Hope this helps
 
Yes engine would crank and powers up fine but seems like something is blocking it or choking it down. After 5 mins of being off, it cranks up fine and everything is normal. I just don’t want to stall in the middle of a red light again. I once had the fuel boiling in the frame And can hear it bubbling. I’ll check the relay, I did a diod test on the VR and got .4 and .398 on the other which seems fine.


And can hear it bubbling.

Slightly involved but reasonably simple test for this. And it's not "vapor lock". I'm sure you'll figure it out.
 
If it’s not vapor lock with the boiling fuel what would it be?
 
Last edited:
Gasoline has such a low boiling point it can bubble in the tank at a relatively low temp, surprisingly not the end of the world (especially in the 1125 world), BUT the heat damaged fuel line is a huge sign theres a problem, and I'd agree it is the issue or at least an issue that needed to be solved wither way.

I'd assume incorrect routing? Either way, well done. You have the right solution to either eliminate a possibility or solve the problem entirely:eagerness:

Let us know if it works out!, Got my fingers crossed for ya:)
 
If it’s not vapor lock with the boiling fuel what would it be?


Failing pump check. Cracked high pressure feed line....cracked regulator housing....leaking pressure regulator...cracked pressure filter bushing. One or all of these.

PROCEDURE:

REMOVE FUEL TANK CAP AND LEAVE REMOVED
FILL FRAME/TANK TO WITHIN 2 INCHES OF MAX CAPACITY
BIKE MUST BE HELD IN VERTICAL POSITION OFF THE SIDESTAND
KEY OFF...KILL SWITCH OFF....BIKE VERTICAL....KEY ON...KILL SWITCH TO ON
NOW CHECK FOR AIR BUBBLES OR SIGNS OF OBVIOUS FUEL MOVING AROUND INSIDE THE TANK

Happy now?
 
You sound like a grumpy old man.

Tell ya something Slick: You're on here yacking about vapor-lock on a fuel-injected motorcycle. Doesn't happen. What does happen is a failing fuel pump with the symptoms/faults I listed above, can give the impression of "vapor-lock" to a novice such as yourself. And you leave that snide remark? What a f*cking wanker.
 
Hypefxx you can put a fuel pressure gauge on it, should read 50psi, sometimes it is intermittent though which is a real PIA. I think someone on here made a T connector and was reading the gauge while running & riding it? My Uly finally went down to about 7psi static test, when it finally died and would not start back up. There are a few rebuild kits available, which I went through REV-MO.Com, but I had a cracked clip on the FPR housing, that I did/could not see, too old and blind maybe. Mailed the assembly to them and they found it and fixed it with an FPR clamp. So far so good, no fun taking a fuel pump in and out on these bikes. I believe Barrett also has a kit & possibly rebuilds the fuel assembly as well as AagaardMoto? I went the most economical route and had great support from rev-mo.com.
 
Take it easy on Barrett, he IS trying to help you. Wanna know how to not get any more help???

I dis-agree with Barrett on this part for many reasons, personally experienced.
vapor-lock on a fuel-injected motorcycle. Doesn't happen.
But I do agree with Barrett that a failing fuel pump could be a small possibility too, the clues you gave that it's intermittent and runs well otherwise say it's ok? But, it could also be the pressure line thats internal in the tank that likes to get pinholes in it. Either way, testing them both is cheap and easy before spending a ton of unnecessary cash on a fuel pump assembly.

You'll need to get this tee and a cheap pressure gauge/Fi Hose:
View attachment 17080
Heres a 2-pack on Amazon for $13
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2658157336...1MqL8BQ+8PLwFfqcbbPOG2fbA=|tkp:Bk9SR7T5lLrCYg

Run a long enough line to check it while running/riding. Spec is 49psi and should not waver even a little bit.
 
Last edited:
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Happy to help, T-bone:)

Theres other fitting styles available, but I use that one with the quick release fittings at 90* from each other. It's a little tight in there to get the one where they are placed on opposite sides.

If one were to be the creative type, you could put a sender on it and a little digital guage on the dash. I even entertained making these as replacements but it's farther than most Buellers would go. They aren't impossible to remove without an engine rotate, but tiny hands and good tools help.

Putting this $3 Schrader/1/8"MPT fitting
Screen Shot 2023-08-22 at 10.21.50 AM.png
into the $15 TB fuel log
Screen Shot 2023-08-22 at 10.21.13 AM.png
Of course you could screw a 1/8"MPT sender directly in there as well, they aren't impossible to remove without a engine rotate, but tiny hands helps.
 
I bought a small voltage meter that goes where the cigarette plug port is. When riding at a steady 3200 rpm my voltages jumps back in forth from 13.2 to 14.5 within 2 seconds. Is this normal or is it supposed to hold the voltage between 14 to 14.6? Im suspecting the voltage regulator is going out now.
 
Back
Top