Engine Light on when I brake hard...

[JJsXB9Sx]

My engine light came on as I rolled downhill down the driveway... It almost stalled. Let it warm up about 4 mins, hopped on and took off. At first stop sign I braked hard and light came on. Settled for a minute, light went off. Turned around, rode back to driveway and braked hard again. Light came on. Settled and went off again.

Checked oil and level is good, maybe a bit high. Oil was frothy, bubbly. Never seen that before and unsure if related.

Any ideas?

Justin

 

[egobuster1]

i would scan it with ecmspy and see what the stored codes are and go from there. sound like its a intermittent electrical short.

 

[JJsXB9Sx]

Thank you. Gotta order the cable so it might be a while.

 

[jimijeans]

JJs XB9Sx- Which light the RED for Oil or Yellow for low fuel OR low Fuell pressure? If you have a hard stopping event that happens then usually it means Fuel is low if the Yellow light comes on. The red light comes on at hard stopping if Oil is old and needs to be changed or Oil filter could be clogging.
That Said ,fill up the bike with at least 2 gallons of Fuell, then do a short ride close to the home and see if the yellow light [Engine or Fuell ] comes on from usually Low Fuell.
REMEMBER the lower you run your bikes fuel level the hotter the fuel pump will get Shortening the Life span of the Fuell Pump. Now- the Oil light [RED] usually comes on when Oil is low or oil pressure is low from oil pump wear or failure or clogging occurs from the wrong Oil or a filter and such.. I have seen times when the Oil pump is fine the Oil light comes on from too thin of a brand on Oil and too many miles between oil changes.
The 20/50 Amsoil is a good product to use. Depending on the miles on your Engine it might just be that it is a Fuell too low and stopping hard sent everything forward THEN the sensor lit up the Dash cluster letting you know like it is designed to. Hope it is an easy fix.*Jimi

 

[JJsXB9Sx]

Jim, It's not the red oil light (changed 300 miles ago still golden colored, Mobil1 since brand new every 1000mi), and not the fuel light, which I am familiar with... I always run the bike until the light tells me to fill up. The hot fuel pump worries me... my bike rides extremely hot in the summer Denver CO (which I just assumed they all do), and I run it hard often (never red lining though). Battery might be low so I threw it on the charger, as the start up is a little rough.

I also noticed a clicking sound after I turned the bike off earlier. There was also quite a bit of backfiring on the short ride I took. Bike is all stock besides cosmetics. 09 XB9SX.

Thanks for the tips. All help is very much appreciated.

Justin

 

[egobuster1]

i think you really need to get the cable in order to be able to diag this, i would say you could do a jumper pin on it but it won't show stored codes i don't think but I'm not familiar with the jumper pin method as i have the cable.

 

[user_deleted]

justin: CEL intermittent? is that the light you're referring to? good info from ego and jimi but humor me and check your battery terminal connections for tightness and pristine cleanliness. worked on a firebolt a few months ago that suffered same ailment and would throw CEL intermiitent light for voltage/battery code #19. was 08 so code reference same as your 09. here's link for 09 jumper wire method and codes. report back with findings.

http://www.bcrider.com/DDFI.html

 

[g3stripes]

a Harley mechanic I know says anytime you get odd happenings, engine lights,stalling,unexplained things, to always first before you do any wrenching ,unhook battery, rehook and try again, he claims the comps get glitchy sometimes, this has remedied a few of mine and my friends bikes oddities, don't fry me just fyi

 

[JJsXB9Sx]

Nice! I'll try that too... My battery strap snapped about 1500 miles ago... I bought the replacement and haven't muscled it on yet...

Lunatic... I know your info is always solid. What the heck is a jumper wire... just asking makes me feel stupid. That looks like an easier way than ECM spy and cable, although my bike would benefit from a better setup for the thin air up here in Denver..

Thanks,

Justin

 

[egobuster1]

i jumper wire is basically what i sounds like, you take a wire and you'll jump 2 pins on the diag port of the bike and it'll make the connection across and display a sequence of flashes on the cluster that'll reference numbers to what the code is. hope that make some sense.

 

[user_deleted]

hi justin: what ego said. click on link i provided and have a look. with a simple wire it allows you to retrieve any stored trouble codes in the ecm. the codes are revealed by a series of flashes. link i provided will explain.

 

[djs2k2]

Easy fix don't brake hard! JK good luck on figuring out.

 

[wolfo68]

Check your grounds, if it's happening under hard braking it makes me think that something is lurching forward with the pressure. For the code use the pin jumper method that was posted, it will let you see the stored codes. If the ECM is glitchy I would guess something isn't connected properly (not to say they're wrong).

Anytime this happens it's a good idea to do some routine checks to make sure your ride is road worthy anyway. Might as well check your oil levels, tire pressure, and fill up on some high quality gas.

 

[JJsXB9Sx]

Update - Used the jumper wire method and got error codes 16 and 34. Let them cycle three times so I am sure of the numbers. 16 seems to be battery voltage, but I can't find anything about error code 34...

Any help?

Thanks for all the help thus far.

 

[oh9bolt]

Google said that is the IAC code

 

[user_deleted]

justin: there is no 34 code i am aware of on an 2009 XB. did you count flashes correctly? i would disconnect the negative cable and let sit overnite. i know this purportedly does nothing but has worked for me in the past with similar glitch. then again as i mentioned above clean the cable ends and batt terminals as though you were preparing to eat off of them, reinstall cables and tighten them down. battery strap or suitable substitute recommended. start and ride and let ecm cycle thru and report back.

 

[wolfo68]

I know 34 used to be a throttle body code, but not sure for the xb without my book in front of me.

Edit: it's an IAC fault, dealers should tell you it's a real code.

 

[user_deleted]

correct wolfo. i stand corrected. code 34 is temp fault in idle air control. my apologies. i would still suspect that code was related somehow to temporary voltage interruption.

 

[JJsXB9Sx]

Thanks guys,

Its probably time for a new battery anyway as it is still the original. I'll try the clean up and re-tighten first, but it looks clean (no corrosion at all) and leads feel tight.

As for code 34, I hope you are right lunatic. I found a thread suggesting a fix should anyone come across this problem. http://ausbuells.informe.com/forum/ulysses-corner-f17/error-code-34-t4295.html

Thank and will update.

 

[JJsXB9Sx]

Update : I decided to just buy the new battery (based on past symptoms as well) and went with Antigravity... Damn that thing is light, and the cranking amps are way better. Fired up like she was brand new. Idle is back to sounding healthy and no more engine light. Thanks so much for all the advice. Back to riding with some peace of mind. Just hope I get a few years out of this battery for the price!