I have the engine out of my XB9R and am trying to remove the engine sprocket. It WON"T budge. I've had the impact on it, a lot, and I've had the 10 foot pipe on the end of it, heated it and managed to put so much torque on the socket that it snapped the chain that was holding the sprocket from turning...... ANY IDEAS???????
Engine Sprocket Nut won't come off
- Thread starter cap44
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black_xb12r
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is reverse threads... you werent going the wrong way were you? sorry dont mean to make yu sound like an idiot but easy things first...
remove both little allen head bolts off of the support ring?
lemme know
remove both little allen head bolts off of the support ring?
lemme know
engine sprocket may mean three things based on your lack of precise wording:
primary sprocket on crankshaft nut (~200 ft lbs torque, I believe RH thread)
clutch basket nut (~80 ft lbs torque, I believe LH thread)
transmission drive sprocket nut (very large nut, LH thread, roughly 240 ft lbs of torque)
NOTE: I may have the primary drive sprocket and clutch basket thread directions mixed up, but I believe that what I stated it correct, obviously no warranty or guarentee on that and check a manual because I'm too lazy to right now
the two nuts inside the primary cases both should come off fairly easily, and I have never had a problem removing them by hand even with red locktite on them using a 3 foot torque wrench
if you put heat to the primary drive sprocket nut, and it sounds like you did there is an oil seal immediately behind the sprocket and the stator enamel that are both damaged by heat and you should probably check now...
if you put heat on the drive sprocket there is an oil seal again you will probably have to replace now, plus the huge bearing there has plastic holding the balls in place and if that melted you will have to replace the entire bearing meaning you have to split the cases...
if you put heat on the clutch basket there is a lot of space and a metal plate before the bearing so most likely you'll be ok but again there is a bearing with plastic holding the balls in place and you will again need to split the cases if that is damaged and so on...
anyway, hopefully you figure it out on your own... because you said there is a chain involved I'm assuming it was the primary drive sprocket and you may have just given yourself a potentially costly headache
best of luck
primary sprocket on crankshaft nut (~200 ft lbs torque, I believe RH thread)
clutch basket nut (~80 ft lbs torque, I believe LH thread)
transmission drive sprocket nut (very large nut, LH thread, roughly 240 ft lbs of torque)
NOTE: I may have the primary drive sprocket and clutch basket thread directions mixed up, but I believe that what I stated it correct, obviously no warranty or guarentee on that and check a manual because I'm too lazy to right now
the two nuts inside the primary cases both should come off fairly easily, and I have never had a problem removing them by hand even with red locktite on them using a 3 foot torque wrench
if you put heat to the primary drive sprocket nut, and it sounds like you did there is an oil seal immediately behind the sprocket and the stator enamel that are both damaged by heat and you should probably check now...
if you put heat on the drive sprocket there is an oil seal again you will probably have to replace now, plus the huge bearing there has plastic holding the balls in place and if that melted you will have to replace the entire bearing meaning you have to split the cases...
if you put heat on the clutch basket there is a lot of space and a metal plate before the bearing so most likely you'll be ok but again there is a bearing with plastic holding the balls in place and you will again need to split the cases if that is damaged and so on...
anyway, hopefully you figure it out on your own... because you said there is a chain involved I'm assuming it was the primary drive sprocket and you may have just given yourself a potentially costly headache
best of luck
transmission drive sprocket nut (very large nut, LH thread, roughly 240 ft lbs of torque) Yes this is the one. I heated the nut with a propane torch so I doubt I got it too hot. The chain that broke is the chain on my Vise Grip chain holders that was securing the pulley. I have to split the cases anyways because my chain drive jumped and broke a chunk out of the cases. I now have the RR swingarm assy. to prevent a loose chain from causing such havoc in the future...if only I can get these cases apart!!!
ah, usually to get that damned thing off I've taken it down to my local Peterbuild because I have a buddy who is a heavy diesel mechanic there and we bring out the 1100 ft/lbs impact to spin it off
that nut gets seized on there really tightly
since you're splitting the cases anyway, you'll be ruining the being and oil seals regardless
if you are going to be replacing the cases (or a part of them) you might as well just buy another completed engine if you have over 10k miles on the current one
these bottom ends don't usually live much longer than 20-25k miles because of the crank-pin
that nut gets seized on there really tightly
since you're splitting the cases anyway, you'll be ruining the being and oil seals regardless
if you are going to be replacing the cases (or a part of them) you might as well just buy another completed engine if you have over 10k miles on the current one
these bottom ends don't usually live much longer than 20-25k miles because of the crank-pin
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