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I believe the NGK Iridium model number is DCPR9EIX. I got it from another thread on here, before. My local Autzone seemed to be out of them but said they could order them. Word on here, is they are supposed to be more foul resistant.
After changing the plugs, the oil change (I also run the Mobil Vtwin-- may try Amsoil next change) and servicing the filter (if its already a K&N as suggested by Wiguy85)and making sure you have a full charge on the battery...I'd reevaluate the stumble and stall. Not that it matters in this case, but you might normally might want to let the check engine light go out before cranking it. Just my opinion, I could be wrong, still relatively new at this myself.
 
How much did you pay for it? The bike looks good cept for the windscreen and that's not even that bad but personally just because of that idle then die thing... Idk i doubt i would've gotten it unless it was something i couldn't pass up cause of the price. I've got the same bike but i got mine with 6k miles on it for 3500.
For some reason it just didn't sound quite right to me when it was running. Didn't watch the first video though so....

Either way good luck and welcome to the elite. The ecm is behind the front faring and you can take one of those spikes off and into any hardware store to match em up for some regular screws. Download the manual on line much cheaper then buying it then just print out whatever section you need. Or do it all at once.
 
Does your brake light come on for the front or rear brake, or neither? if its neither works its probably not making contact at the tail light. mine is doing the same thing and you probably dont need to replace anything. yrt pulling it out and reforming the contacts and see if it helps. if they're not making good contact with the bulb it wont light up. Also, when you get a new fairing bracket, if youre gonna toss that one out id gladly pay you to ship it to me. someday id like to put the firebolt fairing on my lightning and i hate to see anything go to waste.
 
well i just got back from taking the front and rear blinkers (i didnt like them) and im gonna try and find some stock ones. The wind screen is off and i may sell it or keep it as a spare. The break light is fixed, the plug with the 2 wires going into it was on backwards so that was an easy fix.

What is the faring bracket made of? is it aluminum or plastic? if aluminum im gonna take it and have it welded and powdercoated.

Good news tho i do have the full factory race kit :D

Still dont know why it stumbles while cold? any thoughts i gotta wait a week till i can get an ecm spy cable.
 
I got stock signals as well. As for the idle issue mine does it when its real cold out. Once warmed up it's fine.
 
Its magnesium i believe. Mine broke and i was able to.use some epoxy that after dried i could sand it and paint it. I did it black. Looks good. Cheap fix instead of throwin down a hundred n change on a new bracket i could fix myself.
 
well looks like ill be taking the bracket off over the week and get some epoxy from autozone and a rattle can. Speaking of which the title says white and while i was taking the front faring off one of the relays came off (it was glued? not sure if its supposed to be there but im gonna put it back when i get apoxy) and it chipped some paint off with it and there was white underneath so i guess it was painted at one time.
 
wouldn't hurt to check your breathers and see how they are routed, thats always a quick, cheap and good to do mod, might help with some stumble, and if you want to, im sure a TPS reset wouldn't hurt to do but up to you.
 
the breathers are stock in the intake i do plan on doing the re route sometime in the next month (defiantly before i get it on the road) and same with tps reset i just need to get the cable.
 
1. Don't let it idle to warm up. Don't leave it alone idling. It will walk off the kickstand and you'll be fixing things again. Trust me on this. Alway park with the front wheel pointing up hill.

2. It's an '03. The race ecm and the stock are the same. The map is different. Save your money.

3. Really, save your money. Just get a fender for now. Don't worry about the exhaust blah blah blah. It's fast enough as is. Invest in time riding. After a season, you'll know what you need.

4. Ride the tires off. They have a short life span, about 3000 miles. Change to pilots at that time. Save that money.

5. Use the saved money to get that seat bracket fixed. It's aluminum, you will need a skilled welder to do that. My local harley shop did an amazing good job but I get the impression I'm lucky that way.

6. Manuals are at the top of the page. Parts manual is too. Look up the fender number, cut and paste it into chicagoharley.com to find the current price.
 
www.americansportbike.com
www.buellsterparts.com
www.buellparts.net

these 3 sites should help you find most of what you need.
 
I would change the plugs, then do a TPS reset and adjust the idle. Also, check the air filter and make sure the breather hoses are not pinched and routed properly. Sounds like it's running fine once it's warm. Do you get any popping from the exhaust when you decelerate? I just noticed that you are missing a right side heel guard.
 
Well will you look at that lol completely missed that good eye atomicpunk. I'm actually gonna take it to my harley dealer to get 10,000mile service. Needs fork seals too.
 
Spikes, SICK. I went spike crazy on my Electra Glide.

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Bike looks good! A Jardine pipe will definitely sound meaner. The race exhaust is more for performance. It does sound pretty good to tho. I wanted a race pipe. I do love my Jardine tho ;)
 
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